Seafoam in crankcase?

Here`s a copy of a post from another Forum. This guy put 5or6 ounces in his crankcase and "The Honda Tick" weny awat, and his bike never ran better!

I can't believe it. I changed out all the fluids, and used Mobil 1 V-Twin synthetic. Went for a hard ride, and the engine started ticking pretty bad at idle. I assumed it was the hot primary gear problem that plagues these bikes at times, but it seemed worse than I had ever heard. Anyway, I was bummed, so when I got home, I stared at it ticking away, then added 6 oz. of Sea Foam to the crankcase. I have never added anything to the oil, but at this point, I figured what the hell, since the engine was sounding lousy anyway. Started it up, still hot, and it was ticking away, so I was just sitting there pondering the whole situation for 3-4 minutes when the ticking suddenly faded away, just like that! My engine got quieter than I have ever heard it, I mean not a sound except the exhaust note. Ran it for another 30 minutes in disbelief - silky quiet.

I too added Sea Foam to my crankcase this past summer.........had just changed the oil and filter, added about 2 ounces and then drove it around for about a week. My motor has been "ticking" since I bought the bike in 2004. It's only a little '85 VT500C but it is mint and has low mileage.
Back to the Foam...........I checked the oil in a week and it was black as if it had been in there for a year. The filter was also clogged, so I changed the oil once again, replaced the oil filter and the bike has never been that good. Of course I also changed the air filter, and spark plugs so it should run great.
I now get an additional 500 RPM's at 60 MPH not to mention the ticking while idling has gone away.
Just make sure you don't run the bike in high heat and for long distances with that Sea Foam in...............it acts like a super detergent and will clean the whole motor but you don't want it to strip the lubricant value of the oil so that friction begins to occur.............in other words, use it with respect..........light daily runs and short trips are the order of the day.
Krusty

DynoBobSlick said:

Like Phil, I steer clear of additives. Adding a solvent like seafoam to oil can't possibly lubricate the engine properly.

Click to expand...

In proper concentration, as recommended, it will not change the
lubrication properties of the oil to any noticeable extetent.
However, 5 or 6 oz, as stated before would likely cause a noticeable
change in the viscosity of the oil. I doubt very seriously it would cause
any major problems, but it's always better to use the recommended amounts.
When dealing with such a small amount of oil (~2 qts), 5 or 6 oz is a good
percentage of the total fluid.

SeaFoam and the other additives are nothing more than some
toluene and mineral spirits that act as cleansing agents.
They are not really intended to be put in an engine with fresh oil and run
the full oil change.
The stuff is intended to be used for in a couple hundred mile runs....like
adding it a couple of hundred miles before an oil change to help
clean up the engine just before a drain.
It's not really even recommended to leave that stuff in the oil
during a cool down period. It should be put in, ran, and drained while hot.

For wet clutch applications, such as our bikes, I would substitute some
Dextron III ATF for the SeaFoam in the crankcase.
Dextron III ATF is designed to 'wet clutch' applications, such as in automatic transmissions.
ATF is very high in detergent and will help cleanse the engine just as well,
if not better than SeaFoam, and will definitely not harm the clutch
or other internals.

And just as a side note, if the oil is changed on a regular basis and
the proper maintenance is followed, no crankcase additives are needed,
as DynoBobSlick and Phil stated.

The crankshaft has a gear on the end of it called the "Primary Drive gear" this gear directly connects to its mate called the "Primary Driven Gear".
The primary driven gear is mounted to the outter clutch housing, sometimes called the "clutch basket". The clutch basket drives the the inner clutch hub, this is sometimes called the "Clutch Boss"
The rotating energy of the clutch basket is transfered to the boss via the clutch plates.
The boss is center splined to the transmission's primary input shaft, the gears on the input shaft is center splined to that shaft. The teeth of those gears engage with the teeth of the gears that are center splined to the transmissions secondary output shaft sometimes called the "counter shaft". On chain drive motorcycles the front sprocket is called the "counter shaft sprocket" and it mounts to the outside very end of that shaft, then the sprocket chain goes to the rear sprocket.

I said all of that to say this,
If the crankshaft is turning at whatever RPM, then the primary drive gears are doing what they do and have no way to change their rate of rotation.
The transmission gears turn at whatever rotation, and the counter shaft sprocket turns at its rotation,
the chain does what it does,
the rear wheel turns.
Due to all the gear engagements, the only place were an RPM difference can happen between the RPM's of the crank shaft and the rear wheel and in the same selected transmission gear is at the connection of the clutch basket and the clutch boss (clutch plates)
Good running,
bad running,
ten horse power,
ten thousand horse power,
thick oil or thin oil.
The gearing can't change with out gears being broken. Its a law of physics that is written in stone!

A vehicle may run smoother, my feel more powerfull, but the engine RPM's at a certain speed in the same gear with a manual transmission can't change because its all set up by "gear set ratios" which means that each gear is engaged to its mate, but the two gears are a different size so each has a different amount of teeth and turn at a different rotation rate. A gear set CAN have a 1 to 1 ratio (same size, same amount of teeth), that happens when energy from one shaft is needed to be transfered to another, and without a higher or lower gearing of the gear set, but its still a FIXED engaugement!

Now, if your clutch wasn't slipping and you had an indecated difference in RPM's in sixth gear at the same speed, then your tach is not working right.
MarkC