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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings everyone! I need some help. I recently bought a used 2013 Honda Shadow VT750C from a co-worker. He told me about the white smoke emitting from the exhaust and that it could be an oil gasket issue, but probably wasn't a big deal. He came off the price a bit since it was having some issues.

I was going through and checking the bike and when I removed the air filter cover about a quart and a half of oil poured out of it. I put it back together after cleaning everything up and haven't inspected or taken apart anymore of the bike. I wanted to see if someone could give me ideas of what the problem could be and what that hypothetically would cost me. 'Cause as of now, I payed a good bit of money for a paper weight.

Thanks in advance.
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1995 VT1100C2
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First I would check the oil level either dipstick or draining and measuring.
If the engine ran reasonably that looks like a really bad overfill but could be something else. . I would clean it up, check the oil level a few times and see what happens. I would also ask the co-worker why so much oil? Maybe filled twice? With that much oil in the air filter housing there is no way to diagnose any additional issues.
 

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1999 Shadow 750 ACE VT750CD3 Modified
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Yuck, the best case is somebody put too much oil in it, worst case could be much worse.
How much did you get out total?
Does the oil in the drain pan have a layer of water or antifreeze on the bottom?
Does the oil just smell like oil?

Typical oil volumes are here:
Rectangle Font Parallel Number Pattern
 

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That's a nicely sealed air box. My guess would be what gdb said. One scenario would be the level was checked and filled on the side stand instead of the bike being upright. Dipstick has to be at an angle it screws into. But with most Hondas with stick, it's drop and pull out. No bottom out the dipstick threaded in.

As far as other info as to the last time started, you might have bought a parts bike. Two ways to buy a bike on my end is to bring a compression tester and plug tools. Seller won't let me I walk from his price. No matter how beautiful I walk away from it; it's still an obsolete parts bike to me. Does it run? I could care less about fuel or spark. Spend how much with no compression? Anything from a dropped valve to a loose wrist pin with a rod knock. Nope.

Yeah, it ran when he parked it, but did he prep it? So if you bought a runner, you did well with just an overfill. But a no runner, slash sitter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
First I would check the oil level either dipstick or draining and measuring.
If the engine ran reasonably that looks like a really bad overfill but could be something else. . I would clean it up, check the oil level a few times and see what happens. I would also ask the co-worker why so much oil? Maybe filled twice? With that much oil in the air filter housing there is no way to diagnose any additional issues.
I checked the level with the dipstick and it looks good but there is also a slight smell of gas. I'm checking with him today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's a nicely sealed air box. My guess would be what gdb said. One scenario would be the level was checked and filled on the side stand instead of the bike being upright. Dipstick has to be at an angle it screws into. But with most Hondas with stick, it's drop and pull out. No bottom out the dipstick threaded in.

As far as other info as to the last time started, you might have bought a parts bike. Two ways to buy a bike on my end is to bring a compression tester and plug tools. Seller won't let me I walk from his price. No matter how beautiful I walk away from it; it's still an obsolete parts bike to me. Does it run? I could care less about fuel or spark. Spend how much with no compression? Anything from a dropped valve to a loose wrist pin with a rod knock. Nope.

Yeah, it ran when he parked it, but did he prep it? So if you bought a runner, you did well with just an overfill. But a no runner, slash sitter?
It ran then, and when he dropped it off to me it ran. It started up the few days i tried, with no issues. But when I went to take it out on Father's Day, it wouldn't turn over or start. But that is precisely what I'm concerned about. If what I spent on it is worth it.

I'm going to try what you all have suggested. I also figure I'd drain the oil and gas, replace the filter and casing and see what happens.

I appreciate all the help, everybody.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yuck, the best case is somebody put too much oil in it, worst case could be much worse.
How much did you get out total?
Does the oil in the drain pan have a layer of water or antifreeze on the bottom?
Does the oil just smell like oil?

Typical oil volumes are here:
View attachment 302229
Didn't measure how much came out. Didn't notice any water or antifreeze but there was a noticeable gas smell.
 

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Check for a plugged fuel tank vent. also may need to get the injectors cleaned and checked for leakage. could have one with some gum/varnish not seating and leaking fuel down the intake. Especially if the tank vent system isn't working. just sitting in the sun can build up fuel vapor pressure in the fuel tank.
 

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The oil looking like that is a good sign, at least. Does it look like that from the crankcase? Because the white smoke could be a head gasket leak.
You (OP) talked about white smoke. To me that usually indicates coolant in the combustion chamber, which usually means a head gasket leak. That could explain the oil in the filter housing as well, if the compression leak is pressurizing the crankcase. I'd start with a compression check.

A head gasket is not necessarily catastophic, but it's no small project, either.
 

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Now the overfilled oil becomes a fuel issue mixed with the oil is the rise in level? Details man, the details. What else you got to bring forward, or we'll have you pulling the engine out for a fouled plug.

This is an FI bike. Right now, the air cleaner cover is off, so my guess is a leaking injector? I'd do something like stuffing in a paper towel right under those injectors. Turn the key on with the run switch on. Don't start it. You just want to see the fuel pump throw pressure behind those two and see if one or both purge under pressure. They should be dry with the pressure behind them, key on. There is your stuck float, worn float needle, FI style.

So now the question is, how watery was the oil? Oil still thick, you're just smelling a small amount that gets past the rings. Oil should override the gas smell. Gas overrides, watery, Huston, we have a problem.

Funny it didn't hydraulic lock.

Options:
1. Change them out for new.
2. Motion pro tool and clean them using this tool - search it.
3. Additive in the tank being injector cleaner.

I choose 3. These injectors are robust, meaning, they can take a long sit and not so much in need of a cleaning, replacement. Right now lots of info is mixing up things, so I rather not touch a thing if I can. So I'd try the thing that most likely takes 1 or 2 to to fix it, but I rather throw the dice on a few oil changes trying.

How many miles? Price you paid is for a running no problem child. Now it depends upon the price.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Now the overfilled oil becomes a fuel issue mixed with the oil is the rise in level? Details man, the details. What else you got to bring forward, or we'll have you pulling the engine out for a fouled plug.

This is an FI bike. Right now, the air cleaner cover is off, so my guess is a leaking injector? I'd do something like stuffing in a paper towel right under those injectors. Turn the key on with the run switch on. Don't start it. You just want to see the fuel pump throw pressure behind those two and see if one or both purge under pressure. They should be dry with the pressure behind them, key on. There is your stuck float, worn float needle, FI style.

So now the question is, how watery was the oil? Oil still thick, you're just smelling a small amount that gets past the rings. Oil should override the gas smell. Gas overrides, watery, Huston, we have a problem.

Funny it didn't hydraulic lock.

Options:
1. Change them out for new.
2. Motion pro tool and clean them using this tool - search it.
3. Additive in the tank being injector cleaner.

I choose 3. These injectors are robust, meaning, they can take a long sit and not so much in need of a cleaning, replacement. Right now lots of info is mixing up things, so I rather not touch a thing if I can. So I'd try the thing that most likely takes 1 or 2 to to fix it, but I rather throw the dice on a few oil changes trying.

How many miles? Price you paid is for a running no problem child. Now it depends upon the price.

I understand this is probably frustrating for people who know what they're talking about, and I apologize for that. I don't have a lot knowledge when it comes to this sort of thing. Ill give as many details as I can.

It's got 21k miles on it.

When I turn the key the power barely comes on and barely tries to crank before nothing happends. I haven't tried turning it on since emptying the oil from the air filter compartment.
 

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It's not frustrating for me, I don't have the problem LOL. This like talking to my sister via phone texting. I'll ask her, so how's the oil thick or runny? She comes back with the battery is low LOL.

The fun part is we can start anywhere chasing this. Think of the battery as PUSH. It has to push the starter over. If it can't push, then there are no VOLTS left to push. Volts means PUSH. Now you'll know there is no push to be had at the battery, you'll have to fully charge it.

For both car and bike, buy the brand charger Jay Leno uses for his fleet of cars and bikes. It will show if the battery can run thru a sequence of charging steps the battery will go thru. All LED's lit up across the unit? It's been salvaged, can hold a charge. If it shows a red light, it's junk.

Back to the double sniff, double type level scenarios:
1. Was, or is the oil thick or watery? Dip the stick in the hole, pull it out, should drip away is the mechanical error. Pull the stick and the ball of oil is sticking to the flat, just about to fall off, is human error. That's how you should describe it to yourself watching the stick in the engine, or drain pan is the same stick test.
2. What was the price of the bike both first price and final price? Show him this thread. We are just showing a fair price and fair is fair or close enough.
3. You are stuck right now with the injector test. This is full on PUSH at the pump pressure. Buy that smart charger for around $100 give or take, does the same as a cheap one, but if Jay used the cheap ones, that would be the field test up against all those bikes alone. Probably has everyone like the cars. How do I know? Bought one.
 

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Easy test of the battery is to jump it with a non-running car battery to have the crank and ignition power you need.
Then if everything works fine and you have charging voltage, get a new battery.
 

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I understand this is probably frustrating for people who know what they're talking about, and I apologize for that. I don't have a lot knowledge when it comes to this sort of thing. Ill give as many details as I can.
Yup! No worries. There are some that might get frustrated, but many of us only want to get you back on the road. You have to start somewhere!

So don’t worry about the battery for now. If you do what @swifty2014 says, and just clamp onto a car battery, you should have all of the power you need while testing. But yes, answer the questions as they’re asked. Things should be tackled methodically, one at a time. If you start skipping around, it’s really easy to miss something that would have been obvious before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It's not frustrating for me, I don't have the problem LOL. This like talking to my sister via phone texting. I'll ask her, so how's the oil thick or runny? She comes back with the battery is low LOL.

The fun part is we can start anywhere chasing this. Think of the battery as PUSH. It has to push the starter over. If it can't push, then there are no VOLTS left to push. Volts means PUSH. Now you'll know there is no push to be had at the battery, you'll have to fully charge it.

For both car and bike, buy the brand charger Jay Leno uses for his fleet of cars and bikes. It will show if the battery can run thru a sequence of charging steps the battery will go thru. All LED's lit up across the unit? It's been salvaged, can hold a charge. If it shows a red light, it's junk.

Back to the double sniff, double type level scenarios:
1. Was, or is the oil thick or watery? Dip the stick in the hole, pull it out, should drip away is the mechanical error. Pull the stick and the ball of oil is sticking to the flat, just about to fall off, is human error. That's how you should describe it to yourself watching the stick in the engine, or drain pan is the same stick test.
2. What was the price of the bike both first price and final price? Show him this thread. We are just showing a fair price and fair is fair or close enough.
3. You are stuck right now with the injector test. This is full on PUSH at the pump pressure. Buy that smart charger for around $100 give or take, does the same as a cheap one, but if Jay used the cheap ones, that would be the field test up against all those bikes alone. Probably has everyone like the cars. How do I know? Bought one.

Fair enough! LOL I get that.

So the battery was the first thing I looked at. I have a battery bolt kit on it's way since it's missing one. Once I get that properly squared away I'll have a better idea of whether or not I need to replace the battery.
1)Its dark and watery and drips away immediately.

2) Since we both acknowledged there were some issues we agreed on $1k, but I was under the impression that it actually ran.

I'm wondering at this point if i shouldn't get some of my money back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yup! No worries. There are some that might get frustrated, but many of us only want to get you back on the road. You have to start somewhere!

So don’t worry about the battery for now. If you do what @swifty2014 says, and just clamp onto a car battery, you should have all of the power you need while testing. But yes, answer the questions as they’re asked. Things should be tackled methodically, one at a time. If you start skipping around, it’s really easy to miss something that would have been obvious before.
Understood. I'm grateful that for everyone's help. It gets me even more excited to finally become a part of the motorcycle community.
 

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pull a spark plug in each cylinder, then try cranking, might have a cylinder full of gas stopping it. Also put a voltmeter on the battery while trying to crank, if it drops way down, battery is discharged.
 
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