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That's a nicely sealed air box. My guess would be what gdb said. One scenario would be the level was checked and filled on the side stand instead of the bike being upright. Dipstick has to be at an angle it screws into. But with most Hondas with stick, it's drop and pull out. No bottom out the dipstick threaded in.

As far as other info as to the last time started, you might have bought a parts bike. Two ways to buy a bike on my end is to bring a compression tester and plug tools. Seller won't let me I walk from his price. No matter how beautiful I walk away from it; it's still an obsolete parts bike to me. Does it run? I could care less about fuel or spark. Spend how much with no compression? Anything from a dropped valve to a loose wrist pin with a rod knock. Nope.

Yeah, it ran when he parked it, but did he prep it? So if you bought a runner, you did well with just an overfill. But a no runner, slash sitter?
 

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Now the overfilled oil becomes a fuel issue mixed with the oil is the rise in level? Details man, the details. What else you got to bring forward, or we'll have you pulling the engine out for a fouled plug.

This is an FI bike. Right now, the air cleaner cover is off, so my guess is a leaking injector? I'd do something like stuffing in a paper towel right under those injectors. Turn the key on with the run switch on. Don't start it. You just want to see the fuel pump throw pressure behind those two and see if one or both purge under pressure. They should be dry with the pressure behind them, key on. There is your stuck float, worn float needle, FI style.

So now the question is, how watery was the oil? Oil still thick, you're just smelling a small amount that gets past the rings. Oil should override the gas smell. Gas overrides, watery, Huston, we have a problem.

Funny it didn't hydraulic lock.

Options:
1. Change them out for new.
2. Motion pro tool and clean them using this tool - search it.
3. Additive in the tank being injector cleaner.

I choose 3. These injectors are robust, meaning, they can take a long sit and not so much in need of a cleaning, replacement. Right now lots of info is mixing up things, so I rather not touch a thing if I can. So I'd try the thing that most likely takes 1 or 2 to to fix it, but I rather throw the dice on a few oil changes trying.

How many miles? Price you paid is for a running no problem child. Now it depends upon the price.

 

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I would think one cylinder has lost compression and you'd have to rev the engine to keep it running. But at an idle? The come around for the dead cylinder would not keep the momentum moving = Won't run at idle.
 

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It's not frustrating for me, I don't have the problem LOL. This like talking to my sister via phone texting. I'll ask her, so how's the oil thick or runny? She comes back with the battery is low LOL.

The fun part is we can start anywhere chasing this. Think of the battery as PUSH. It has to push the starter over. If it can't push, then there are no VOLTS left to push. Volts means PUSH. Now you'll know there is no push to be had at the battery, you'll have to fully charge it.

For both car and bike, buy the brand charger Jay Leno uses for his fleet of cars and bikes. It will show if the battery can run thru a sequence of charging steps the battery will go thru. All LED's lit up across the unit? It's been salvaged, can hold a charge. If it shows a red light, it's junk.

Back to the double sniff, double type level scenarios:
1. Was, or is the oil thick or watery? Dip the stick in the hole, pull it out, should drip away is the mechanical error. Pull the stick and the ball of oil is sticking to the flat, just about to fall off, is human error. That's how you should describe it to yourself watching the stick in the engine, or drain pan is the same stick test.
2. What was the price of the bike both first price and final price? Show him this thread. We are just showing a fair price and fair is fair or close enough.
3. You are stuck right now with the injector test. This is full on PUSH at the pump pressure. Buy that smart charger for around $100 give or take, does the same as a cheap one, but if Jay used the cheap ones, that would be the field test up against all those bikes alone. Probably has everyone like the cars. How do I know? Bought one.
 

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If you received money back and it cost a grand, that is more than fair. If it's never been dropped, that means no parts to buy. If it comes down to 2 injectors, there is that "I bought it knowing 'as is' and I took the chance I'm going to have to put in whatever it take$." Of course you could have bought a turn key bike and rode off happily ever after. Flip it wise, you made out, don't worry, the PO is off the hook, IMO.

I've heard horror stories about jump starting bikes. You'll probably need a charger for the battery once winter kicks in. You are not trying to start it, you are trying to diagnose it. That spray at the injectors is the 2nd look see. The first thing to see is if the battery is salvageable with the purchase of a smart charger.

Part list:
1. New air cleaner.
2. 4 new sparkplugs.
3. Oil filter.
4. 4qts of oil.
5. Battery charger.
6. Battery (only the smart charger's red light knows for sure)
7. One dry paper towel.

I didn't add injector cleaner. Thought a little more about it. If that paper towel finds the leak, I'd replace it. Then you wouldn't have to worry about the crankcase filling. Figured it leaked when the PO had it, and that was running before he parked it?
 
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