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Discussion Starter #1
My '06 Sabre with 27,000+ miles on it still has the caps covering the carb set screws. I know it needs to be adjusted because it backfires on decel, but not as badly with the highest octane gas. So, I've been riding "carefully" on the decel because I haven't had the guts to put a drill to my carbs.

But, I have a friend in town who is a crackerjack mechanic, and he's interested in getting this done so that I can start using regular, be less careful about decel, & get better gas mileage.

So, I need to know two things.

First: What's the exact location of these covered-over holes, and ...
Last: What's the proper setting. Seems I remember reading something about tighten the screws up to snug, and then backing out each one (there's 2, right?) a certain number of turns.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Going to be a trial and error thing trying to get rid of the popping on decel no setting will work on all bikes. Start with 2.5 and go from there do not go over 4 turns get that far out and screws could fall out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I'm not looking for a "2.78935" turns is exactly what you need! The 2.5 as a starting point is EXACTLY what I'm wanting.

But, aren't there TWO screws? Do they both get 2.5 turns backed-out to start? Do they both then get loosened or tightened together, or is it a trial & error thing.

I was MOSTLY worried about putting the drill to the bike. After that, playing with the set screws should be fairly easy.
 

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First the popping is not hurting anything. But running too lean might. You are doing more damage running it lean than the popping is. Just drill a 5/32 hole in the center of each cap, DO NOT remove them. Use a 1/8 screw driver to adjust. 2.5 turn out from a light seating is the starting point. Idle must be correct before EACH adjustment. In leans, out richens. If the screws don't end up adjusted to approx the same # of turns for both carbs, that is a sign of needing to Sychronize the carbs.
 

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I did this recently and recommend:
- follow the idle drop procedure. I think this is listed in the manual (available in sticky) and there also some posts that explain it as well.
- sync the carbs as well
- check and tighten the intake boots to the carbs

It took all 3 to solve the popping problem on my bike. Also, when I did the idle drop, my carbs had different settings on each side. I think I landed at 2.5 turns on left and 3 turns on right. Mind you I didn't have a tach so I had to listen for the idle change by ear. Any my hearing sucks. But it all worked out well and is easier to do than you may think. Bike also runs a lot smoother now.

I found the post i referenced. See litnin's post about 20 down through this thread.
http://www.hondashadow.net/forum/72-technical-discussion/68630-darn-annoying-who-hasnt-fixed-their-popping.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So, before I go out there, does the '06 Shadow Sabre VT1100C2F6 have 2 screws per carb, or 4, and it's 2 carbs (1 for each cyl), right? (shows how much attention I've paid to my bike)
 

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1 mixture screw per carb
It's the one recessed in the middle of the pic
left side


right side


Take a small drill bit, 3/16-1/8, slowly drill through the plug, they are very soft material. Be careful not to push to hard, when you go through, you don't want to hit the head of the mixture screw. once you have a hole, you can thread in a screw and pull the cap out w/ a pair of pliers. Then just tweak the carbs a lil at a time. Turn both screws in, counting the turns until seated, so you know where your starting point was. Do not turn the screws in and jam them in the seat, they just have to barely seat for your stopping point. On my Sabre, the front carb was good at 3.5 turns, the rear needed more. Took care of all the popping on decel. I went a 1/2 a turn at a time from the starting point on each carb at the same time. I could literally hear the engine rpm change at idle while adjusting the mixture screws. (will go higher as you richen the mixture)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Looks like I have ALL the info. I had spotted the drill point in the service manual drawings. But, seeing it in living .jpg really brings it home. Looks like I have enough info to get this done without too much trouble.

On a related note, a mechanic friend went & looked at my bike & tightened the screws around the carb boots. Apparently they had come loosely attached directly from the factory. Considering my maintenance regimen, it's no surprise that this has been left untouched for the 1st 27,000 miles. After he tightened them up, it's not backfiring on decel, not popping, not even an obvious gurgle (tho maybe one imagined gurgle). Every gear I hit, I ran it up to near redline & then let it decel back down. Nothing. Pure clean decel silence. So, maybe that was it.

My usual maintenance is an oil/filter change every 3k miles, maybe a washing each year, and fixing whatever breaks (brake pads, battery, horn, clutch cable, starter switch, & tires). Otherwise, it's not been back to the shop since I took delivery of it new.

The REAL test of the carbs adjustment will be when I fill up with REGULAR instead of the high octane gas. Then, if it backfires/pops, I'm drilling & adjusting.
 

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Please keep us posted on your progress. I have a similar rich/popping issue on my bike. Local dealer has not proven to be a good fix for the problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Please keep us posted on your progress. I have a similar rich/popping issue on my bike. Local dealer has not proven to be a good fix for the problem...
I will post results, if/when I do drill out the caps & adjust the set screws. I'm not convinced that I need to do that now. As for the dealer, I have been told that it is against the law to adjust those screws in Texas, so they don't, under any circumstances. They claim the bike will always be properly tunable without ever having to touch the screws. I don't know how true this is, but that's what I have been told about Texas.

On the other hand, the dealership shop manual says that the very first thing to check is the mixture screws. And, it gives detailed instructions on drilling the cap, pulling it out, and then adjusting the set screws. So, I'm not sure what is the real root of the problem.

Definitely, when I do that bit of work, I will repost with results.
 

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David,
Have you ever used "Greg The Bike Mechanic" He's a local guy that does house calls on your bike for I think 39 bucks an hour plus a trip charge for over 30 miles I think it is. Also Is it the bike shop on 35 N in Selma, that won't adjust your mixture screws?
 

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David,
If the problem was solved by tightened the clamp on the boots, there's no need to fool with the A/F screw. If those clamps are lose it will let in too much air and you'll get the lean burn 'pop'. I might suggest you get to be better friends will your manual. Lots of cool stuff in there...

Dave
 
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