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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have removed the destroyed wire from my bike to the rear turn signals, now i have to rewire the lights. The resistor in the existing form is soldered near the light. I would like to solder it nearer to the wiring harness. Does it matter where the resistor goes? Nearer source (bike) or nearer destination (light)?

Dingo.
 

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Nope, solder it where you like..
 

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So I have removed the destroyed wire from my bike to the rear turn signals, now i have to rewire the lights. The resistor in the existing form is soldered near the light. I would like to solder it nearer to the wiring harness. Does it matter where the resistor goes? Nearer source (bike) or nearer destination (light)?

Dingo.
Nope, resistance is resistance as long as it's placed in the same pathway and no branching off into other circuits. Think of it as water flowing in a pipe and the resistor is a dam regulating the flow of water. If you have good soldering skills and the proper heat range iron and tip you should be able to solder the resistor.
 

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Those legs on the resistors are really quite delicate - if it were me, I would get some heavy duty shrink tube (the hard plastic stuff) and use that to shrink over the wires leading up to the solder joint, the solder joint, and resistor - the whole shebang - to help fortify the connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Those legs on the resistors are really quite delicate - if it were me, I would get some heavy duty shrink tube (the hard plastic stuff) and use that to shrink over the wires leading up to the solder joint, the solder joint, and resistor - the whole shebang - to help fortify the connection.
Oh i will, just have to remove the old wires and solder new ones and lay out my wiring. Going to solder new wires into the bikes light connectors too to make replacement easier.

Dingo.
 

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If you have extra resistors (cheap) and some spare wires, I really suggest you practice soldering together the two items. The problem is that when you wrap the stranded wire around the stiff wire sticking out of the resistor, the stranded wires tend to loosen sorta like a rope that doesn't stay tight at it's tie. Those resistors were meant for electrical breadboards. Even pressing the solder tip against the stranded wire tends to unravels it from the stiff wire.
 

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If you have extra resistors (cheap) and some spare wires, I really suggest you practice soldering together the two items. The problem is that when you wrap the stranded wire around the stiff wire sticking out of the resistor, the stranded wires tend to loosen sorta like a rope that doesn't stay tight at it's tie. Those resistors were meant for electrical breadboards. Even pressing the solder tip against the stranded wire tends to unravels it from the stiff wire.
You shouldn't need to press that hard.. Using a higher temp soldering iron and lightly touching the joint to transfer heat would work better..

I love messing with electronics and do a lot of custom circuit boards and soldering in electric guitars.. The capacitors, pots and micro circuit boards I mess with (in my active guitars) plus the thinness of the multi-strand wire is always a bear to mess with, an absolute nightmare if you don't have a good soldering iron and decent solder..

I used some hideous soldering irons in the past, which made a real mess of the job because I couldn't increase or decrease the temperature at the tip, so invested in a Weller WESD51 digital soldering station a few years ago and absolutely love it.. I also use a real thin 60/40 rosin core solder..

I solder everything I can, all the joints for the wiring I do on my bike are soldered and insulated.. I Never use crimps or caps if I have a choice..
 

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They're not too expensive either. When you think about it though, any butt joint connector simplifies joining a stranded wire to a stiff wire (resistor legs). However for joining stranded wire to stranded wire, I prefer a copper to a copper contact. That is, overlapping the wires at the joint, either by a crimping or soldering the overlap.


*Instead of wrapping the wire strands around the resistor legs, maybe it's better to coil the resistor legs around the stranded wires. Internet pics.


 

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You shouldn't need to press that hard.. Using a higher temp soldering iron and lightly touching the joint to transfer heat would work better..

I love messing with electronics and do a lot of custom circuit boards and soldering in electric guitars.. The capacitors, pots and micro circuit boards I mess with (in my active guitars) plus the thinness of the multi-strand wire is always a bear to mess with, an absolute nightmare if you don't have a good soldering iron and decent solder..

I used some hideous soldering irons in the past, which made a real mess of the job because I couldn't increase or decrease the temperature at the tip, so invested in a Weller WESD51 digital soldering station a few years ago and absolutely love it.. I also use a real thin 60/40 rosin core solder..

I solder everything I can, all the joints for the wiring I do on my bike are soldered and insulated.. I Never use crimps or caps if I have a choice..
Weller soldering stations are great, I've used them since before they invented knives and forks and they certainly do the job.. but.. if you only have one or two joints to make you are better off paying your local TV engineer to do them for you..Weller irons are not cheap, just buying a spare tip costs more than many other irons.

John.
 

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Weller soldering stations are great, I've used them since before they invented knives and forks and they certainly do the job.. but.. if you only have one or two joints to make you are better off paying your local TV engineer to do them for you..Weller irons are not cheap, just buying a spare tip costs more than many other irons.

John.
Yup! ..They are definitely an investment, but if you do a lot of soldering.. Like you say.. As a long term investment, they are worth Every Single Penny :)
 

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Mark, I've switched over to eutectic solder (63/37) which melts at a set temperature instead of gradually like 60/40 (which you et al. already know). As far as I'm aware of, eutectic is not available in thin wire, so it takes a while to develop the knack to reach that melt temperature while holding things steady with all four hands. I guess a high temp solder iron might work better. The main thing the OP has to keep in mind is to use rosin core solder instead of the acid core.
 

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here we go again! The reason for the over thinking is that it's so cumbersome soldering wires on a bike that you might as well do it properly in all it's incantations. By military specs? Absolutely.
 

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You guys are way over thinking a simple soldering job. This isn't exactly high quality electronics.
here we go again! The reason for the over thinking is that it's so cumbersome soldering wires on a bike that you might as well do it properly in all it's incantations. By military specs? Absolutely.
Oh, Hell.. What? Are you guys, like, New or Sumpin'??!!??.. It's the process.. :lol:

First, Dingo (being the sane a rational person He is), asks a sane and simple question.

Next we answer it..

Then we meander a bit..

Then we meander a LOT! ...

...Well... At least we never reached the point of discussing Aunt Adelina's Irresistorble Orange Mystery Puddin' Recipe, by this usual and circuitous route (this thread)..

But then.. :neutral: ...Dingo signed up for all this crap when he posed a simple question ;) .. :D

Dingo, do not forget the flux!!!!!!!!!!!
Darn Tootin', Mike.. Don't forget the Flux!

See that Star Trek Episode??.. Episode .. ...109 I think? Where the Flux Capacitor... .. Ooops! :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Dingo, do not forget the flux!!!!!!!!!!!
Good to see you back, thought we lost you for a while.

No flux for me, going to reuse the resistor (no place to buy them up here) and my solder is an all in one. I also have a RONA brand soldering iron made by weller, pricey but I got fed up buying a new iron every time I wanted to solder. I also have a 20 year old craft job that I just can't get rid of.

Dingo.
 

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  • Are you guys, like, New or Sumpin'??!!??.. It's the process.

  • Dingo (being the sane a rational person He is), asks a sane and simple question.

  • Next we answer it..

  • Then we meander a bit..

  • Then we meander a LOT!
In no particular order, you're over thinking things. In a nutshell, Dingo's thread has been assimilated. Is this necessary a bad thing. Well, nought if the tangents are chalked full of useful nuances of such infinite value, lol, that it benefits the OP immeasurably. As in, "But you still haven't answered the question."
 

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Good to see you back, thought we lost you for a while.

No flux for me, going to reuse the resistor (no place to buy them up here) and my solder is an all in one. I also have a RONA brand soldering iron made by weller, pricey but I got fed up buying a new iron every time I wanted to solder. I also have a 20 year old craft job that I just can't get rid of.

Dingo.
Your local TV repair man has every resistor ever made in stock, they cost him a couple of cents each so he probably won't charge you much for a few.. they are color coded so he will instantly know the value if you show him the one you have and the wattage is worked out by the size.

When fitting an inline resistor always clean the corrosion from the legs either by scraping them with a wire cutter or pull them through a piece of emery paper, Then tin both them and the wire by coating them in solder before attempting the join, this makes the join easier and stronger.

John.
 
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