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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1996 Honda shadow vlx600. Son Jumpstart bike with truck and now having electrical problems. I replaced the battery and now I have power to everything but the headlight, brake light, and starter. Wont turn over, no clicking when hitting start button. Ive checked all known fuses. Whats my next step when diagnosing this? Please help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes previous owner had speakers wired in causing battery to drain. And yes he said the truck was running when they jumped out off..
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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The headlight and starter could be from a dirty or burned start switch but not sure why jumping would do that.
Check power at the fuses with key on. Black/red wire into them.
See if you get power on the red/yellow wire at the start solenoid when you push the start button.
If it there power there,the other side of the solenoid is grounded by the neutral and kickstand switches.green/red wire.
 
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2002 VLX VT600CD
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Both are 12V systems (I would assume your pickup isn't running 24V) So logically jump starting SHOUDLNT have caused an issue. Shouldn't be any different from using a battery charger on the "start/boost" setting where it has the most amperage.. Check your terminal connections and terminal connections on the starter it self.
Like stated above check your kill switch and check your kickstand switch. both will cause starter not to engage if active
 

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1997 Honda Shadow ACE VT1100C2
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I'm with Swifty. Had a similar issue (but I couldn't jumpstart). After a $720 tow my kill switch just needed cleaning.
 

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It does not matter if the jump vehicle is running or not. Both are 12 volts and I have never heard of electricity being forced thru anything, it is drawn.

As has been said check all connections for clean and tight and check all fuses and switches.

Eric


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It does not matter if the jump vehicle is running or not. Both are 12 volts and I have never heard of electricity being forced thru anything, it is drawn.

As has been said check all connections for clean and tight and check all fuses and switches.

Eric


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If the truck is running and the alternator is putting out over 100 amps ( very possible with alternators today) do you want all that amperage hitting the electrical system of your bike that never sees anywhere close to that????
Noppers, not me.
 

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If the truck is running and the alternator is putting out over 100 amps ( very possible with alternators today) do you want all that amperage hitting the electrical system of your bike that never sees anywhere close to that????
Noppers, not me.
If electricity worked this way, plugging in a USB power supply into a standard wall socket could result in 1,800 watts going into that little power supply, which could be pretty spectacular. It doesn't work that way. I (current ) = V (voltage) / R (resistance).

From what I've seen, the regulators in automobiles control their charging systems better than the regulators in motorcycles do. My car never gets above 14.2V on the voltmeter that I have plugged into the cigarette lighter, while I've seen bikes regulating their systems to 14.8 or higher.

That said, I would want to make sure that I wasn't making ANY connection to a vehicle, running or not, with the bike's ignition turned on. At the instant of making the connection, transients can occur. Also, just as can occur if one hooks up a battery reversed, one can do quite a bit of damage by connecting the jumper cables with reversed terminals. Like destroying the bike's rectifier for one thing. Maybe that is what happened?

Did your son get the bike running when he jumped it?
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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It really shouldn't cause a problem with a running vehicle and a 100 amp alternator, but it isn't necessary to have it running.
Because when you connect a car battery just by itself with 500 cold crank amps, that is enough to fry everything, but it only draws what is needed for the circuit.
Similar to your 120 volt wall plug that has a 15 amp circuit breaker. You plug in your TV that only need 3 amps and it doesn't go up in smoke. Only draws what is needed.
 

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1999 Shadow 750 ACE VT750CD3 Modified
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Yeah, but what always worries me, is all is good until something is not right and with something like a dead battery of unknown cause, it can be.
Not to forget at least for my battery Honda recommends a 10 Amp maximum fast charge rate, so more is OK for a boost and start but....

A short story:
Electrons want to run in a circuit pushed by voltage, conductors and components merely provide a path, electrons like to take the easiest path available and will tell their buddies if they find a short one and quickly too.
Having lots more electrons sitting there in ready to join in, either in a box or in pipes from somewhere else can create an electro rave from what was a small party with few friends.
Next thing you know things get hot, and maybe the smokes come out and before you know it they've wrecked the place and they won't have to show up for work tomorrow.

Electrons will tell you that can lick a battery to see if it is still good, DON'T do it.

I see people trusting their lives more and more to electric cars and bikes, filled with boxes of trapped electrons, there's a lot of potential for mischief.

Let's be careful out there. (-;
 

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OP. Sorry if i caused the side tracking of this post. I hope you solved your problem. It shouldn't be any problem for a vehicle to be running when jumping normally. Both vehicle batteries and charging systems should be compatible and essentially equal volts. Many people, even on this forum, recommend not to but I've done it myself especially when say using a small car to jump a big diesel or such. But i can imagine situations where there is a fault in either system or a mismatch between the voltage regulators that could make it possible for a larger power system on a truck, for instance, to damage or overload a smaller m/c system.
 

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Thread drift is normal around here. But most of the time the discussion is still relevant, at some level.

Eric


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I’m with @swifty2014 again. Don’t have the truck running, but if you did, it shouldn’t have hurt anything. Since replacing the battery gave you power back, I’d take a guess that some issues were pre-existing, or just needed a small ‘push’ to show up? I’d just do standard electrical troubleshooting from here. Wires, grounds, fuses and switches.
 

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2003 VT1100C Spirit
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So, we don't know if the jump from the truck actually started the bike or not...but, we do know that the wiring was messed with enough by the previous owner that some sort of speakers run (or ran) the battery down. I think it's safe to say that the bike has a pre-existing wiring issue from that bit information. Also, something as simple as a speaker install being done improperly by the previous owner leads me to think there are other issues in the wiring system caused by the previous owner that have not been found yet.

You may need to get a wiring diagram and just start tracing wires one by one to fix your issue. Fix bad connections properly (no quick connects) and get rid of those power draining speakers (as well as any other improperly installed add-ons).

Good luck!
 

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You said, "I've checked all known fuses." The main fuse is not in the fuse box. It's in the tangle of wires behind the fuse box and IMHO looks a LOT like an in-line plug. Had to call a shop after we'd "checked all known" fuses to learn about it.
Fortunately the shop was wonderful - Allsport Cycles in Roanoke, VA. Had it fixed the next day, including tearing out all the wires we'd missed. Made it to Two Wheel Inn in time to spend a few days riding Tail of the Dragon and other wonderful roads with a few guys and gal from this group.
 

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1999 Shadow 750 ACE VT750CD3 Modified
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Come to think of it the 30 Amp fuse got me in my early days with my 750 ACE. it is under a cover on the starter solenoid/relay on it and there out in the open is a "spare" as decoy.
On my bike the decoy was blown, so I of course replaced it to no avail. Later I found the real one, also blown, while checking the wiring. At least it is not a fusible link or bare fuse wire in a box like some.
 

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Come to think of it the 30 Amp fuse got me in my early days with my 750 ACE. it is under a cover on the starter solenoid/relay on it and there out in the open is a "spare" as decoy.
On my bike the decoy was blown, so I of course replaced it to no avail. Later I found the real one, also blown, while checking the wiring. At least it is not a fusible link or bare fuse wire in a box like some.
Yeah, that's what made me feel so stupid. I found the spare so I knew there was a fuse holder someplace. Gave up after about half an hour and called the shop.
 

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1996 Honda shadow vlx600. Son Jumpstart bike with truck and now having electrical problems. I replaced the battery and now I have power to everything but the headlight, brake light, and starter. Wont turn over, no clicking when hitting start button. Ive checked all known fuses. Whats my next step when diagnosing this? Please help.
I'm only going to tell you my experience with my vintage 1984 VT700 Shadow. My battery was getting weak then one day it was so weak I could not start it so I jumped it from a friends running vehicle. From that day even with a new battery I couldn't seem to keep the system charged. I ended up needing to replace the stator and doing the 3 wire fix on the system because the stator had burned up and the stator connectors and wires were burnt and melted. Now the mechanic could have been slinging BS at me but he said the voltage from the running vehicle was way more than the voltage that comes from a motorcycle stator. He advised that it's safe to jump a bike from a car/truck but don't have it running. Get the power from the battery only and you'll be fine. As for your electrical problem I'd check to see if the stator us putting out the proper voltage and go through the wiring carefully especially the wiring going to and from the stator & the regulator rectifier (I think that's what it's called).
 

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He wasn't totally full of it. Voltages are the same. A running car or truck puts out 13.x to 15v maximum. An earlier post in this thread touched on it, though. The potential amperage is a LOT greater, and someone mentioned the bike's regulator/rectifier might keep on drawing current to bleed off as heat until it burns itself out.
 
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