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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I am having this problem sometimes.
Tonight went on an hour ride with the last leg of it at highway speeds up to 60mph for only about 5 miles, anyhow when I get to the intersection and after idling for only a minute or less the light turns green and I proceed like normal and in the middle of intersection it decides to almost stall still in 1st gear, so pull in the clutch and rev it up and proceed again and it was ok and I continued down the street and all was ok. This is not the first time this has happened, it seems to happen only after a sustained ride and it will hesitate/ stall off the line or in the intersection like tonight, but runs great any other time. Oh and when I got home I was moving the bike to its parking spot and it decided to stall, thought I did it but when I fired it up again it backfired but then started the next try.
I have not done anything to the bike since I purchased it and Have probably put 400 miles maybe on it. It always starts flawlessly and idles great and runs great until now. Any ideas?
I am proficient at small engines and such and fix just about anything but just want some input from some more experienced bike mechanics than myself. It is not overheating that I can tell, but it seems to me that it acts like fuel vaporizing like the carbs are getting hot, just the thing that first came to mind.
Ideas??
 

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Good question, mine did this the other night. Took the long way home (50+ miles) turned off the highway, travelled 1 block to the stop sign. I went to pull out and it stalls, hit the starter, crank crank crank, crap! Duckwalked to the curb so I didn't hold up traffic, hit the starter again, vrooom. WTF???
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah if I had not pulled the clutch mine would have stalled, now I notice at this time when the motor is warm that if I try to blip the throttle not in gear it will hesitate, but if I give it easier throttle it picks right up. I just remembered this and it sounds important to me. Now I just need to figure out what is causing it.
I plan on this winter doing a complete going thru on the bike and possibly checking into the need for a jet kit and such cause of the aftermarket pipes.
 

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My Sabre has done this twice recently. Didn't quite die, but I couldn't rev it at all. After a few minutes, it was fine.

Took it to Richards Honda yesterday morning after it stalled 5 miles into a a easy ride.

We pulled the tank and drained it, drained the carbs. Nothing. No water that anyone could see.

Air filter had 10k on it and looked it, so I replaced that. Pulled the petcock and there's a little filter in the tank where it fits in.
It looked a little nasty, but they didn't have one in stock, so I ordered one. 28 bucks! didn't pull it tho, kinda afraid to w/o a spare.

Two tips I got to troubleshoot the problem were to drain the carbs when it happens again and see if anything comes out.

If little to no gas comes out, I'm looking at replacing the Fuel pump.

The other tip was to open the tank and see if there's a vaccum. Listen for the Whoosh :D

Last thing is everyone in the shop said ethanol has been a huge problem ths year. So they gave me a list of ethanol free pump locations.

Also picked up some gas treatment stuff that eats the ethanol and I'll try that for a while. 1 oz. per tank to start, then a half oz. at fillup after.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My Sabre has done this twice recently. Didn't quite die, but I couldn't rev it at all. After a few minutes, it was fine.

Took it to Richards Honda yesterday morning after it stalled 5 miles into a a easy ride.

We pulled the tank and drained it, drained the carbs. Nothing. No water that anyone could see.

Air filter had 10k on it and looked it, so I replaced that. Pulled the petcock and there's a little filter in the tank where it fits in.
It looked a little nasty, but they didn't have one in stock, so I ordered one. 28 bucks! didn't pull it tho, kinda afraid to w/o a spare.

Two tips I got to troubleshoot the problem were to drain the carbs when it happens again and see if anything comes out.

If little to no gas comes out, I'm looking at replacing the Fuel pump.

The other tip was to open the tank and see if there's a vaccum. Listen for the Whoosh :D

Last thing is everyone in the shop said ethanol has been a huge problem ths year. So they gave me a list of ethanol free pump locations.

Also picked up some gas treatment stuff that eats the ethanol and I'll try that for a while. 1 oz. per tank to start, then a half oz. at fillup after.
I think it is time to do some investigative maintenance before the problem gets much worse. It sucks to be powerless in the middle of an intersection. Just glad it fires right up when it does stall, It really has only stalled completely once, but it would have the other times if I had not pulled the clutch. So I think this Sunday is reserved for bike maintenance.
Yeah!!:D Better than remodeling the upstairs bedroom:-(
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh I forgot to ask about my speedo making noise..
I have tried to spray a little wd40 in it and it worked for a short time, it is noisy when riding and gets warm, only 17,500 miles on it, I am going to see about taking it apart today and lubing/cleaning it. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
update so far,
pulled the plugs (what a pain!!) they are a sandy brown, maybe a little lean but burning good all 4 of them.
cleaned air cleaner not that dirty
checked fuel strainer (nothing) and the fuel flows great when I apply vacuum to it.
Let it warm up to the normal line on gauge and the throttle picked up decent, but when cold it was not good, very hesitant except when I used the choke and it was very good then.
richened up the idle mixture by 1/4 turn, previously I had come out 4 turns and then back in 1/2 turn cause it was too rich (burning my eyes at intersection) but the decel popping had gone away at 4 turns out and very slight at 3 1/2 turns but figured a 1/4 turn out more could not hurt. And then readjusted idle speed to 1k.
Did a look over of all the hoses and such but still want to check the breather tube.
Now I am working on the speedo but the screws are muffed up (corroded) and am going to use a dremel to cut slots in them. They are very tight.
It is raining slightly here now so no riding to test right now.
I had to grind down a 18mm long reach socket to get at the deep plugs, there has to be a particular socket for this, I need one cause that sucked. Does anyone know where to get one?
 

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I use the one from the factory tool kit. IIRC, I have seen them online somewhere. Probably ebay or maybe BikeBandit, or CheapCycle. Maybe even Honda, might be worth a try.

I rejetted mine after installing the Mac pipes, this is the first issue. It did do this before any mods, but I thought it was me.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
lubed up speedo, no fun taking it apart but all is well, it was really grinding/buzzing,could hear it over the bike, and one of the face screws was backed out laying in the bottom of speedo.
now my tach seems gummy, it runs up slow and comes down slow, it is cable driven and I checked for a pinched cable but the cable runs fine, never even messed with the tach??? I did drop some oil into the cable but it was light oil just cause I was there.
 

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update so far,
pulled the plugs (what a pain!!) they are a sandy brown, maybe a little lean but burning good all 4 of them...
Brown would mean you're running rich, not lean.

...I had to grind down a 18mm long reach socket to get at the deep plugs, there has to be a particular socket for this, I need one cause that sucked. Does anyone know where to get one?
You might try the one that comes in your bike's tool kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Brown would mean you're running rich, not lean.

really lite almost a whitish brown, According to ngk I guess it is running in the normal range


You might try the one that comes in your bike's tool kit.
do not have one yet, but am on the lookout

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Still stalling/hesitating at intersection

went on a short ride yesterday over a mountain, lots of fun..Get to intersection of main route and stalls?? fired back up no problem go to take off and wants to die, rev it and all was well, runs great after that, get to another intersection and stop, let it idle and it starts to die like running out of gas, rev it before light turns green and then take off and as long as I kept some r's to it it was fine.
coils seem warm but not too hot, the front coil was hotter
I am thinking some seafoam to see if anything changes, it really seems like a fuel problem, cause it just has that smell when it acts up like it just ran out of gas, not rich, a lean smell??? it is different smell than rich
Want to ride it, it runs too good to tear apart now, so unless there is a quick fix anyone knows of I guess I will try the miracle juices.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Took it for another ride just so I could reproduce this problem and it did. Today I checked the coil resistance but it was cold so I must do this again on the side of the road when the problem happens...I guess.
Anyhow both coil primaries read 2.8 ohms, now the book says 2. What do you think is this a problem?
The secondaries with the caps on both read 34K
I went ahead and trimmed the wires on the coil end cause I was there
I tried to get one of the caps off and it seemed tough to do so and I did not want to mess it up, do these come off OK, is there a trick?
When the bike starts cutting out is mainly at low speed like moving out from a stop, I can rev it up and get it to go but it still wants to stall out, but once going it seems to run no problem. You cannot twist throttle hard at all it will cut out/pop/backfire/stall/etc. But when cold it runs way better, but with some hesitation in the throttle but no stalling.
I am checking the ignition part of it for now cause it seems to run fine any other time so am hoping to find something here related to being warm.
 

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hmmmmm

Thru my 2nd tank of Startron treated gas and the stalling happened again. This time I set the choke right off and the bike started, but ran weak for a minute then ran strong and fine.

Dang it....
 

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I vote sticking carb float. KT made me say it.

What is the same, different & changed? When you brake, sloshing fuel in the carb changes float level. When you take off, it is getting too much fuel. A little bouncing around and they would settle back. Jez my guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I vote sticking carb float. KT made me say it.

What is the same, different & changed? When you brake, sloshing fuel in the carb changes float level. When you take off, it is getting too much fuel. A little bouncing around and they would settle back. Jez my guess.
sounds interesting, but it only does it when it has been run for a distance of atleast 10 mile+, still need to go buy some seafoam to try. The PO said he had cleaned the carbs and done all maintenance and so far the bike has been good except for this one thing. All the oils were new, I checked, and so on.
How critical is the primary resistance? I have 2.8 on both cold and it is supposed to be 2.0. The bike runs real good otherwise.
 

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My bike did this when it was around a 100 deg outside. seams to have stopped now that it is a bit cooler.
 

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Ernie's comment makes me ask, "If it is vapor-lock/heat related, is there any virtue in putting a small 12v chassis fan under the tank to blow cool air over the carbs? If so, as heat rises off the motor it would create carb or fuel line issues but not instantly, it would take a few seconds. Also, check to ensure your fuel line is well away from hot stuff.

Airheads suffer from this since their motors run way hotter than Shadows. You could set up a big window fan, run around for awhile and stop next to the fan to see if it makes any difference. If yes, it would be a piece of cake to retro the bike with a chassis fan like http://www.allelectronics.com-12VDC-80MM-COOLING-FAN/1.html. They have different diameters of 12V units in stock for cheeeeep in bladed or squirrel cage types.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
There does not seem to be much room between the carbs for the fuel lines and one line is touching the valve cover, it all looks stock, from the looks of it there is no other way to route these lines. Vapor lock was my first guess cause of the way it acted and the smell of a motor running out of gas. I will take my meter with me on a ride to see what the coil measurements are at the time of problem to rule them out or in. I know it had spark cause the last time i pulled the wires one at a time and they were snapping.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well I had tested out these coils way back and replaced them with some good used and things were only slightly better but not fixed. STILL wants to stall and mess around when it gets warm, even before the cooling fan ever comes on.

Last september ended up having a 4 wheeler accident and broke my back and this kinda took a toll on things. But when I finally get back on the horse the bike never fixed itself, oh man!!

So, the other day coming home from work only a mile away the thing is running crappy and it had (fresh gas too??) decided to take it for a longer ride thinking it just needs run, well I made the decision to finally figure this thing out. Cause it took no time at all for the same problem to show up. It was over 90 degrees out and the bike was at normal operating temps and wanting to **** around at every stop. when got home it did stall and I could not get it restarted and it only backfired.
It has a new battery this year
when it is cold it usually runs the best and will runout real well usually without the enrichener unless it is real cold
I feel and have felt that this is fuel related unless someone can suggest something for me to check before I go in first.
I want to think it is electrical because of the heat issue but it has fire when it dies, I only replaced the coils because they ohmed out at the high end when hot.
The other day is really the only time it never restarted after stalling, and I feel that is because I was home and I did not try hard enough.
I know this is an old thread but it is still relevant to me.
Any suggestions?? before I go tear into these carbs
 
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