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Discussion Starter #1
Ok looked at the no start thread and could not find my problem so i figured i would give this a try.First off i bought a 1992 honda shadow vt 1100 for a great price because the only way to start it was to jump the solenoid as the start button did not work.I was told by the owner the stop/start switch was bad.I took it off and seen someone had hacked the wires inside so i just bought a new one from honda hoping that would fix my starting problem.Unfortunately it did not!I also replaced the solenoid as it was jumped alot and looked to be original anyways.Unfortunately it did not fix the problem either.

Now i know there is a kickstand,neutral,and clutch switch that could cause this to not start through the switch.I assume if the neutral and kickstand light are on that those switches are working.Or is there a relay after the indicator lights that could still cut power to the switch?


And yes the switch is in the run position and i checked my fuse box(all fuses good)and the 30 amp fuse on the power supply off battery.
 

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The kill switch could be your issue. When you do hit the starter button, does your headlight flash off? If so, it's your kill switch. You might be able to fix it by taking apart the switch housing and cleaning the contacts for the switch, but if not then it needs to be replaced.

Mine does the same thing, and usually if I toggle the switch a bit when it's acting up I can get it to start. But I plan on taking it apart and cleaning or replacing it before I actually start riding.
 

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Originally Posted by Dunesgirl

When you do hit the starter button, does your headlight flash off? If so, it's your kill switch.
With most bikes, the headlight is suppose to shut off when you press the start-button so there's more juice for the starter motor. But I know what you're meaning about a faulty kill switch. It can wreak havoc on your brains. With my bike RUNNING, I press the start-button and the the engine shuts off, as if I had pressed the adjacent kill switch instead. No, I don't know the mechanical explanation for it but it was related to a faulty kill-switch. The GROUND for the start-button and the kill switch share the same wire on my bike. So that might have something to do with things. Thusly if you wiggle around the kill switch or clean the contacts, it's possible that the start system will return back to normal. You might try first prying the kill switch back and forth where its red plastic body protrudes out of the housing....between the narrow space. The kill switch assembly inside the housing might have moved or shifted and isn't able to fully engage the ON position because its movement is restricted.
 

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Originally Posted by Night Shadow

....the only way to start it was to jump the solenoid as the start button did not work. I also replaced the solenoid as it was jumped alot and looked to be original anyways. Unfortunately it did not fix the problem either.
You might want to inspect the wires that connect into the two terminals below (arrows) on the starter relay. One of the wires is a RED WIRE. When keyed the red wire feeds the fusebox. If you know how to pull the red wire from the 4-P connector you can get a better look at it, although burnt marks on the surface of the 4-P connector would be enough of an indicator. At any rate, doesn't take much corrosion at this point to screw things up, lots of current there. The wire that connects to the second prong is a RED/WHITE wire and you might as well take a look at it too, since in turn, the RED/WHITE wire feeds the RED WIRE. *Btw, I take it by "stop/start switch," you're referring to the "kill switch." There's some confusion whether you meaning the start-button. I realize both were giving you problems. And apparently you replaced the kill switch?




The other pair of prongs on the same relay are for the start-button circuit and have thinner wires. One prong is directly wired to the start-button and functions as the trigger that switches the relay ON and the other is GROUND to complete the circuit, as in, you hear the click.




Anybody, I lost track of which wire connects where. It probably doesn't matter but just the same....

 

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Discussion Starter #5
The kill switch could be your issue. When you do hit the starter button, does your headlight flash off? If so, it's your kill switch. You might be able to fix it by taking apart the switch housing and cleaning the contacts for the switch, but if not then it needs to be replaced.

Mine does the same thing, and usually if I toggle the switch a bit when it's acting up I can get it to start. But I plan on taking it apart and cleaning or replacing it before I actually start riding.
Well i just bought a whole new switch that has both the kill and start so there is no issue with corrosion inside.

You might want to inspect the wires that connect into the two terminals below (arrows) on the starter relay. One of the wires is a RED WIRE. When keyed the red wire feeds the fusebox. If you know how to pull the red wire from the 4-P connector you can get a better look at it, although burnt marks on the surface of the 4-P connector would be enough of an indicator. At any rate, doesn't take much corrosion at this point to screw things up, lots of current there. The wire that connects to the second prong is a RED/WHITE wire and you might as well take a look at it too, since in turn, the RED/WHITE wire feeds the RED WIRE. *Btw, I take it by "stop/start switch," you're referring to the "kill switch." There's some confusion whether you meaning the start-button. I realize both were giving you problems. And apparently you replaced the kill switch?




The other pair of prongs on the same relay are for the start-button circuit and have thinner wires. One prong is directly wired to the start-button and functions as the trigger that switches the relay ON and the other is GROUND to complete the circuit, as in, you hear the click.




Anybody, I lost track of which wire connects where. It probably doesn't matter but just the same....


That solenoid is way different then mine.MY power wire for the fuse box comes off directly from the power cable from the battery and has a fuse inline that i checked.I also cleaned off both the neg and pos battery cables and cleaned the plug that comes off the solenoid coming from the start button.Ijust bought a clymer manual and it said to check the clutch diode but the stupid picture is of an older bike and i do not have one there so i need to do some searching i guess.
 

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My bad, I didn't realize the '92 relay was that different from newer models. According to the OEM page (Honda SHADOW SPIRIT VT1100C 1992), the diode #7 should be on the front-right side of the bike on the wire harness. Under the right neck cover?? If a clutch diode is bad, usually the neutral dashboard light comes on when you squeeze the clutch lever with the transmission in gear.

 

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This prompts a question I have....
If the starter switch craps out, is there a way to start the bike in order to get home or to the repair shop?
Just curious and, sorry to stray from the original topic.
 

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Tnshadowrider....repost the same question "with an appropriate title" as a new thread in this Technical Discussion section. More beneficial for the search feature for one. If you do, delete your present post. This kind of sub-branching off the topic only stashes info that may by of value to others with the same question.
 

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starter

Ok looked at the no start thread and could not find my problem so i figured i would give this a try.First off i bought a 1992 honda shadow vt 1100 for a great price because the only way to start it was to jump the solenoid as the start button did not work.I was told by the owner the stop/start switch was bad.I took it off and seen someone had hacked the wires inside so i just bought a new one from honda hoping that would fix my starting problem.Unfortunately it did not!I also replaced the solenoid as it was jumped alot and looked to be original anyways.Unfortunately it did not fix the problem either.

Now i know there is a kickstand,neutral,and clutch switch that could cause this to not start through the switch.I assume if the neutral and kickstand light are on that those switches are working.Or is there a relay after the indicator lights that could still cut power to the switch?


And yes the switch is in the run position and i checked my fuse box(all fuses good)and the 30 amp fuse on the power supply off battery.
First assuming because the lights work that switch in question works is a wrong assumption. The lights may work but the switch could still be bad. Secondly, I don't have a light for my kickstand switch but I believe that when the light is on, that the kickstand is down, If that's the case the bike won't start.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
First assuming because the lights work that switch in question works is a wrong assumption. The lights may work but the switch could still be bad. Secondly, I don't have a light for my kickstand switch but I believe that when the light is on, that the kickstand is down, If that's the case the bike won't start.
I think i found the issue.I noticed when i bought the bike the clutch lever was had pretty much no resistance,so i took the cap of and seen the fluid was almost empty so i filled it up and bleed the line.The lever was still squishy so i decided to take of the slave cylinder.When i pulled the clutch lever in the piston didn't move and fluid was seeping out around the piston.I know if the clutch doesn't disengage it will not activate the switch and will not let it start.So hopefully it fixes my issue.If not it will at least fix the clutch problem it had :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Apparently fixing the slave cylinder did not fix my issue :(.I still can not get this bike to start without jumping the solenoid.Is there anyway to jump these stupid safety switches?I checked both of the diodes(apparently there are 2)with a multimeter and they where good according to my clymer book.kinda running out of ideals and options now so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Apparently fixing the slave cylinder did not fix my issue :(.I still can not get this bike to start without jumping the solenoid.Is there anyway to jump these stupid safety switches?I checked both of the diodes(apparently there are 2)with a multimeter and they where good according to my clymer book.kinda running out of ideals and options now so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
It's possible. The switches are there more for stupid moments then smart people, but even the smartest of us can have a brain fart :)

First, pull the wires off the clutch switch, hook a multimeter up (preferably one that can be made to beep with a short circuit) and squeeze the lever. If the meter shows near 0 ohms (or beeps if set up to do that) then the clutch switch is working. If the switch doesn't work, you can often pull the insulator back some on one wire, push the two ends together, and it should be enough to keep you going till you can replace the switch.

If the switch is working you'll have to work your way through the wiring to find the fault. There's a good chance a connector has worked loose, so it might be a good time to check them over and if necessary add a little dielectric grease to keep the moisture out.

Yes, you can bypass the safety switches permanently if you wish to. Not entirely reccomended but it does depend some how you ride, eg I have to leave my bike in gear so I'm expect it to be in gear. If you normally leave yours in neutral then you may have an accident if you start it while it's in gear.
 

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No, the 4 connectors. Sorry, in my native language kabel means cable.
The 4 wires are 2 separate pairs. Each pair has it's designated row on the starter relay (second pic). Which wire is on the left or the right in the same row doesn't matter. That is, the prongs in the same row are bi-directional as far as current flow.


 

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The kill switch could be your issue. When you do hit the starter button, does your headlight flash off? If so, it's your kill switch. You might be able to fix it by taking apart the switch housing and cleaning the contacts for the switch, but if not then it needs to be replaced.

Mine does the same thing, and usually if I toggle the switch a bit when it's acting up I can get it to start. But I plan on taking it apart and cleaning or replacing it before I actually start riding.
I am pretty sure that the light is supposed to cut off so the lamp isn’t drawing current away from starter. Cleaning the contacts takes a few minutes.
 

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2-9 yr. old thread. ;)
 
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