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Discussion Starter #1
well i went to start my bike up for the first time today after tuning it up and taking care of some minor things.

i put a battery on that i know was fully charged (had been on a trickle for about 8 hours) when i went to hit the ignition switch i heard a click and my lights dimmed but no turn over.. just a click

i got my truck and tried to jump it with the truck on and still same thing the lights dim, i hear a click, but nothing please help me im dieing to test her out.

i had her up on the integrated work stand does that affect the starting?
 

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my neutral light wont come on the dash, could it be a neutral safety switch impeding my start? how do i make sure the light comes on?
Can you pull in the clutch and click the shifter up or down until the neutral light comes on? You may need to roll the bike slightly while doing this to make sure the shift takes place. If the neutral light doesn't come on you might try shifting all the way down multiple times (to be sure you are in first) and then just slightly up to find neutral. Roll the bike to make sure. Some bikes also have a safety switch in the clutch lever housing, so you might also try pulling in the clutch when you try to start.

The symptoms you describe of lights dim and a click makes me think it is something besided the neutral switch though. I would double check the battery connections to make sure they are secure and that the battery ground cable is making a good ground.
 

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Trickle chargers are not battery chargers. A Trickle charger can charge a battery but it can tale 24 hours depending on how dead the battery really is.

Trickle chargers are designed to maintain a battery bu charging it very SLOOOOOWW!
 

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Jumper those wires on the neutral switch and see it that helps...
also check that the Stop/Run switch is in teh Run position.

Gonz
 

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Maybe the neutral switch isnt working? Maybe a bad ground or connection to the switch? With the light not comeing on, it makes me suspicious that it's in the neutral switch part of the circuit.

Could be a bad connection to the clutch diode too. The diode is tied in with the neutral switch as well as the clutch switch. The diode would be located in the fuse box, you should be able to pull it out and push it back in to freshen the connections to it a bit. It should be black and rectangular in shape.

Myabe I'm wrong here, I'm looking at a much newer schematic. I hope you get the problem fixed.

Mark
 

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With your tune up I'm assuming new plugs, if not might be bad plugs? Also Make sure the kill switch is on the "run" position.
Battery cables properly on?
Kick stand up?
 

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Read my post above!

Buy a Battery Charger to charge the Battery!

Check the voltage on the Battery.

12.6V or higher: 100% charge
12.4V - 12.6V: 75-100%
12.2V - 12.4V: 50-75%
12.0V - 12.2V: 25-50%
11.7V - 12.0V: 0-25%
11.7V or less: 0% (and probably not capable of being recharged).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
mark v said:
Read my post above!

Buy a Battery Charger to charge the Battery!

Check the voltage on the Battery.

12.6V or higher: 100% charge
12.4V - 12.6V: 75-100%
12.2V - 12.4V: 50-75%
12.0V - 12.2V: 25-50%
11.7V - 12.0V: 0-25%
11.7V or less: 0% (and probably not capable of being recharged).
ive had the bike's battery hooked up to my truck (while running) and it does the same thing. i doubt its the battery. i think it has to do with my neutral light not coming on, my starter clicks but doesnt try to engage
 

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I didn't see where the neutral light had been changed/check. Burned out bulb??? Let's take care of the easy cheap stuff first.

Then clean up (make shiney the contact points ) the the ground contact (major ground lug for the battery under the seat probably) and clean up the the terminals that run the starter (again make shiney).

You are getting enough juice to run lights but it takes a hell of a lot more amperage to spin the starter......it's clicking the relay, so it's probably a dirty or bad cable somewhere.

If your starter clicks it's getting juice meaning the neutral light interlock in NOT in play. If it was in play, either nothing would happen at all, or it would spin the starter and keep the ignition in a killed state (depending on the year and model).
 

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Starting

You say that you had it on a work stand. Is your kick stand in the down position when you are trying to start? If it is not down, the bike won't start-safety issue from Honda.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Re: Starting

cbjr0256 said:
I didn't see where the neutral light had been changed/check. Burned out bulb??? Let's take care of the easy cheap stuff first.

Then clean up (make shiney the contact points ) the the ground contact (major ground lug for the battery under the seat probably) and clean up the the terminals that run the starter (again make shiney).

You are getting enough juice to run lights but it takes a hell of a lot more amperage to spin the starter......it's clicking the relay, so it's probably a dirty or bad cable somewhere.

If your starter clicks it's getting juice meaning the neutral light interlock in NOT in play. If it was in play, either nothing would happen at all, or it would spin the starter and keep the ignition in a killed state (depending on the year and model).
im definately going to break her down today ans clean up the contacts real well, it had been sitting for a while before i got it so maybe corrosion set in somewhere.

WilliePerk said:
You say that you had it on a work stand. Is your kick stand in the down position when you are trying to start? If it is not down, the bike won't start-safety issue from Honda.
yeah i took her down and tried it but same thing happened. thanks for the tip though
 

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I don't know where the selenoid is on your bike, but it should be pretty easy to swap out once you find it. you can either buy an identical replacement from honda, or jsut one that will fit where your old one is, I believe a 12v selenoid is a 12v selenoid, a cheap one from the autoparts store should work.
 
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