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Discussion Starter #1
1993 Honda Shadow VT1100C - stock with these mods: drag pipes, all LED lights and turns /with hyper flash diodes, electronic turn signal blinker switch, light bar on separate electrical wiring harness, sound system, phone charger (last 3 disconnected for below testing).

On 3rd battery. Battery is charging (checked with voltmeter, 13.20 resting, 14.25 when running revved a little), starter good (see below), start Button switch good (triggers solenoid, which sends on click to starter, starter clicks not solenoid, lights out, then back on 3-5 seconds later), Solenoid seems fried or shorted, when I hit start button, one click from starter, lights and power out, no start, lights stay off, then 3-5 seconds later lights come back on. If I bridge the selonoid connectors the bike starts right up and I can ride to the end of the earth.

Thinking the Solenoid is shorted, and that I have a grounded wire somewhere. Don’t want to get a new selonoid if it’s just going to short out again, I also think this Solenoid/Grounding problem is what killed previous 2 batteries.

I’ve gone through all the main manual advised fixes, going through wiring again To check for crossed or grounded wires today.

Good advice on what to check or try welcome!
 

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2000 Honda Shadow Spirit VT1100C
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when I hit start button, one click from starter, lights and power out, no start, lights stay off, then 3-5 seconds later lights come back on.
If the lights are coming back on when you still have the starter button depressed, that's a sign that the switch is bad or corroded, or dirty, because the button's job is to do two things. 1) Disconnect the headlight from the circuit, and 2) Send power to the solenoid.

By the way, an EXCELLENT job of presenting your question! Too many times we qet questions like, "My bike won't start. Please tell me why it won't and what I have to do to fix it."
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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Try to do a "bench test" with it still on the bike.
Disconnect the yellow/red wire that comes from the start switch from the solenoid.
Disconnect the green/red wire that is the grounding side from the solenoid.
Ground the terminal for the green/red side with a new ground wire clipped on.
Put battery voltage to the yellow/red.
See if it works every time like it should and cranks the starter. If so the solenoid is working fine but the power from the start switch is the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies, I’ll definitely try your ideas.

Update, my brothers, both lifetime riders and mechanics came over and tested a bunch of things, including selonoid directly to other battery, would do same thing, put new solenoid in, same thing. Tested polarity on solenoid, both came up as positive(?). In the end we got it to start instantly and strongly by putting a bridged metal across solenoid terminals. I road just under 600 miles this weekend that way.

They both think something in my wiring is grounding it during start. That I should go through it and see which one is crossed or grounded.

Of note is that the turn signal indicator only works periodically, and is not synced with the actual turn signals. To mention again,all lights have been switched to LEDs. Also, previous owner reported starting issues, in fact gave up on the bike and it sat 7 years. I put new starter in, old one had two stuck brushes, 1 of 2 mounts had bolt broke off in it. After cleaning and sanding ends of brushes old start ran from battery.

Going to disassemble and start checking wires for incorrect grounding today.

Thanks again!
 

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Keep us in the loop. Good practice to go through the whole system, since you usually find loose wires and bad grounds somewhere... But shorting across the solenoid successfully is usually the sign of a bad solenoid, since it’s effectively a big relay. Can you try testing them off the bike? It’s possible you may have two bad ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm pretty sure my brothers did that test already. During one or the other of the tests, the new solenoid got wrecked. I have a new one, but want to see if I can find the wiring problem before installing it and breaking it again. Just in case. Once I'm confident I don't have a ground or any crosses, I'll put new solenoid in and run that test.

If I didn't mention it. I did disassemble the starter button switch and clean it, sanding the contacts a little, prior to all the testing.

I should be able to go through this in the next few hours, if a honey do item doesn't interrupt, and will of course post the results. Thanks again Chuck, Swifty, and Troy!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, so did bench test with new solenoid. Starts every time. Reconnected to start button, to solenoid, started 3 times, went to fill tank, single click lights out. Several times more, then started. Got home, tried starting again, same think, 2 times click lights out, then started again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. By that you mean the button on the handle bar, not the ignition switch?
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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There is a possibility the kickstand switch is not contacting all the time if it works then doesn't. It has to provide a ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Not sure what part of that thread seemed to be ignoring advice, the part I was interested in possibly trying, before replacing, was the souder to improve the worn contacts.
I’ll definitely take a close look at the kickstand switch.
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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Here is what the power and ground sides of the start circuit look like.
 

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Some people are just overly sensitive... ;). LOL!

He has a point, though. When you’re diagnosing wiring, you need to FOCUS. If you skip around with different things and areas, you’ll miss the real fault entirely. More so if there are TWO faults compounding each other... I‘m going through that with my taillight. My father swears at me that things are fixed and we should button it up. Test it again...FAIL. It’s persistence that wins out, which is why paying for wiring fixes ends up being expensive.

Easy test, get two ends of wire in place of your starter button on the solenoid. Short them to see if you get constant activation. Then try the button again. Also, put a meter across the start button leads For continuity checking. You should get a nice, clear short, every time. After that’s been eliminated, then move on to the ignition switch and repeat. Then check out the kickstand switch, and repeat. The order isn’t important, but eliminating one factor at a time is...

The Shadow’s wiring is a little interdependent as well, which makes things even more fun! Like when my tach suddenly stopped working. Due to a busted bulb... in my display panel? XD
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The work continues. Went out this morning and tested start button, bike started all 3 times. Chuck has a good point, even if I fix (already cleaned) the start button contacts, it could very well be the wiring between there and wherever. I like to give those things a try before buying a $70 part (yes there is some irony in that as im on my 3rd solenoid and second starter motor, having been able to now fix the first one).

Troy, I will definitely go through that test. I feel like I’ve done most of them, but not all together. I’m going to start with the kickstand because that’s the only one I know I haven’t done, and it is starting every time as of this morning.

Swifty, thanks for the diagram. I will take a look and see if anything looks incorrect or broken.

To all, even Chuck, thank you, these electronic issues can really drive me crazy.

here’s the wiring chart I’ve been using:
289654
IMG_7732.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I’ve been unable to find a new SWITCH ASSY., STARTER STOP 35130-MM8-680. I see similar ones but the throttle cables come out the front rather than the bottom of the switch housing. Does anyone have experience with fixing this part. The thread I noted above mentioned using soder to build up the worn contacts?
 
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