[Gabe1121]

Just when I was coming to love riding the bike anytime I'm not working, I got a mean case of no charge syndrome. My stator is totally grounded out, and the rectifier/regulator is suffering from dead diodes. Thanks to the write ups and suggestions here, I've got all new parts coming this week. Want to thank you guys for the support and dedication on the forum. I hope I can find a way to contribute back.

 

[7xclm]

Just riding the bike will be ok with me.

 

[80130]

Hope you're getting the MOSFET type R/R. That should help.

 

["Captain D"]

Welcome...
Sorry for your lo$$...
Keep coming back,
Dennis

 

[adlowe]

My stator is totally grounded out, and the rectifier/regulator is suffering from dead diodes. Thanks to the write ups and suggestions here, I've got all new parts coming this week.

Important question: Do you know why?

A dead stator cannot kill a r/r. A bad r/r would likely destroy the battery before frying the stator. I would expect one or the other to be bad but not both. Are you certain you haven't got another underlying problem that took both of them down?

 

[Gabe1121]

I found the epoxy on the R/R cracked, so I can only assume that moisture was the culprit there. As for the stator I haven't torn off the covers to make a physical assessment, all I can say is that the windings are shorted to the case. The replacement R/R is a FH020AA from Roadstercycle.com. I've read too many good things to pass that one up. Getting a Electrosport stator, yet again, too many good things I've read. One thing to note, when I purchased the bike I was warned that he had had battery issues before, guessing the regulator had been doing the dance of death for some time.

 

[C5rider]

Sounds to me like you're on the right track Gabe. The nice thing about the items that you're using is that the Roadstercycle R/R basically makes the entire charging unit a stand-alone system. It removes the stock wiring and by upgrading/replacing the stator, if there were any glitches in the system, they're a non-issue now.

The hardest thing now is to take your time. It can be tempting to "make'r fit!" to get back running again, but it's much better to find the best place/way to mount the R/R, and the best way to route the wires. The new R/R is probably going to be larger than the original, and the mounts probably won't line up, but it WILL fit in that area. I mounted another piece of metal and cut off the original studs so that the new R/R sat a little lower, without hitting the swing arm, but still tucked up in that same area. The wires go directly to the battery and are much heavier gauge. All good things.

Once you get it completed, there'll be nothing more to do but go for a ride! Enjoy it!

 

[adlowe]

Sounds to me like you're on the right track Gabe.

Ditto.

The hardest thing now is to take your time. It can be tempting to "make'r fit!" to get back running again, but it's much better to find the best place/way to mount the R/R, and the best way to route the wires. The new R/R is probably going to be larger than the original, and the mounts probably won't line up, but it WILL fit in that area. I mounted another piece of metal and cut off the original studs so that the new R/R sat a little lower, without hitting the swing arm, but still tucked up in that same area.

Another ditto. I tried roadstercycle's adapter plate with no success -- it doesn't lower the r/r enough. Ended up mounting the r/r upside down just as many 1100 owners do. I don't like the idea of putting the wires so low but that's more a theoretical complaint. Someday I might fab an adapter plate that cants the r/r on an angle so I can turn it close to upright -- at least that's what I keep telling myself.

 

[stumpjumper_steve]

Same thing happened to me last July. I would ride for 20-30 minutes and when I stopped, totally dead battery. I purchased a new battery and the same thing happened over and over.

Finally one Saturday, I pulled the seat and rear fender and started searching for the culprit. Here's what I found: the rectifier yellow wire had corroded/rotted/burnt and was grounding out against the frame and the white connector plug was brittle and fell apart in my hands when I pulled it. I pulled the stator cover and the stator had 7 tabs worth of metal contacts worn to the point of barely being recognizable as contacts. The previous owner did say "yeah, it doesn't keep a good charge, so I just keep charging the battery."

So, I went to Amazon and bought the following:
Ricks Motorsport Electric Stator 21-104 $91.58
Ricks Motorsport Electric Rectifier/Regulator 10-118 $67.47

Came home, pulled the old stator, dropped the old rectifier, installed the new ones, buttoned everything up...works like a champ! Now there isn't a whole ton of information online for this process, especially for a '98 1100, but if you have any questions I'll be happy to help.

Rectifier wires

Stator:

 

[Derek86VT700C]

Important question: Do you know why?

A dead stator cannot kill a r/r. A bad r/r would likely destroy the battery before frying the stator. I would expect one or the other to be bad but not both. Are you certain you haven't got another underlying problem that took both of them down?

Both my stator and reg/rec were faulty. Idk which one killed the other but replaced both