[adlowe]

Before you go running out to buy parts and a lift SLOW DOWN.

You don't diagnose a problem with the owner's manual. It's not that kind of book.

Somewhere you heard someone say "stator?" Did he/she say "regulator/rectifier?" Or "electrical connections," "short," "open" or even "circuit?" If you didn't hear any of those words then you weren't listening to the right person.

You want help from us here, it would probably help to identify your bike. Is it a 1999 1100 Aero?

You posted "the engine will not turn." Did the lights light? Did they stay lit when you pressed the start button? Did they light up when you released the button?

Here's a hint: You don't need to check the stator, spark plugs or fuel delivery system when the engine won't turn over. You need to focus on the electrical system.
o ALWAYS start with the battery. Got a voltmeter or multimeter? If not, get one; they're cheap. If so, what is the battery voltage?

o If the battery shows anywhere between 11.5 and 13.2 volts then you probably have a good battery and charging system. (The stator is part of the charging system. So is the regulator/rectifier.) You need to check all the electrical connections and the 30 amp fuse. Then the start switch if everything else looks good.

o If you get that far without finding a problem, pull the battery and take it to an auto parts store for a load test. It takes a few seconds. Many auto parts stores will do it for free. I'd be surprised if there wasn't one near you that would.

o If your battery tests below 11.5 volts then pull it. Take it to that auto parts store for charging and a load test. (Load test is useless on a battery that isn't "fully" charged. "Fully" will mean anything between 11.5 and 13.2 volts.) My guess is that you've got a battery problem and this is where you'll end up. You might or might not have other problems; maybe you created some when you "successfully replaced cables and a few other 'peripheral' parts."

Yes, I know you posted "the battery has charge." MEANINGLESS without the number of volts. Contradicts your stator diagnosis, too. And, btw, a fully-charged battery can fail a load test; that would mean the battery is toast.

 

[adlowe]

Most batteries in a 12 volt system should test out at about 12.6 vDC with a full charge and the engine off.

Maybe. Capacity of a typical new lead-acid 12 volt battery is 13.2 volts. Generally, a table of state of charge derived from voltage will look something like this at 80° F:

12.66v . . . . . . . . . . 100%
12.45v . . . . . . . . . . 75%
12.24v . . . . . . . . . . 50%
12.06v . . . . . . . . . . 25%
11.89v . . . . . . . . . . 0%

Capacity diminishes as the battery ages, redefining the word "full" for that particular battery. Our spark plugs will not fire with less than about 8 volts. Our starters will not turn the engine with something less than about 10.5 volts. (Those numbers might vary from one bike to another.) And a "full" charge doesn't necessarily mean the battery is good. Put a load on the battery and the voltage *might* drop to approximately zero -- a sure sign of an internal failure.

 

[adlowe]

Don't know where you got that 12.6vdc. Typical battery should test 13.2-13.6vdc. Nominal charge per cell should be about 2.1-2.3vdc per cell.

More like 2.2 volts from each of six cells = 13.2 volts would be typical for a lead-acid battery we'd get for our bikes. Not that there are no other possibilities, just that they are unlikely. Most of us would be lucky to get 13.2 volts a couple of months after buying a new battery. That's why 12.6 volts is generally considered a "full" charge.

 

[adlowe]

I guess I should have said no less then 12.6vdc for a full charge Huh?

It varies. Here's a not-so-handy table that lists different "full" charges for different temperatures. It also includes a separate section for AGM batteries with different numbers. And, of course, you posted about an installed battery whereas tables are generally for uninstalled ones. We have no idea what Micro67 has. You weren't far off the mark regardless.