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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have searched here and on google and no info in the shop manual. Can anyone tell me where to find out what jets my bike came stock with? Right now it has 170/45 both carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Stock is 165 and 42, per Clymer manual and visual examination. So, it HAS been rejetted. BUT without knowing the jet MFG you can't determine, by how much. Cross reference for jets, Keihin to Dynojet to Mikuni carb jet conversion chart,
Thanks! I have the carbs off for a leaky bowl gasket so it was a good time to check. It's good to know that it has been re-jetted; presumably when the pips were installed. It has a little popping in deceleration with the idle screws 3 ½ turns out, but not bad and the plugs look good so I think I'll do the old "if it aint broke don't fix it", install the new gaskets/o-rings and put them back in. Any other thoughts?
 

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Thanks! I have the carbs off for a leaky bowl gasket so it was a good time to check. It's good to know that it has been re-jetted; presumably when the pips were installed. It has a little popping in deceleration with the idle screws 3 ½ turns out, but not bad and the plugs look good so I think I'll do the old "if it aint broke don't fix it", install the new gaskets/o-rings and put them back in. Any other thoughts?
With #45 idle jets and the pilot jets turned out 3 1/2 turns out you still have some popping, you need to check out other things.

First, make sure all the passages and jets are clean squeaky clean in the carbs. Then, make sure all of the gasket and o-rings (as well as the vacuum piston diaphragms) are in good shape and not leaking air. Then make sure all of the vacuum lines are not leaking. Then ensure your intakes boots are tight and not leaking. Finally, make sure the exhaust crush gaskets are not leaking. If you do all of that, you WILL NOT get backfiring upon deceleration with probably 2 1/2 turns out. The richer idle jet you have installed should really take care of all of the backfiring upon deceleration issues. Since the carbs are off, really, only the exhaust gasket leak is the only added step you will be doing. When you are cleaning the carbs, it is normal to check the other items I described.

Don't forget the o-rings behind the pilot jet screws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for the advice. All the rubber parts with the exception of the float bowl gaskets look good. The kit came with all the o-rings so I’m replacing them anyway with one exception. The carbs have been synched so I was hoping to avoid separating the two carbs to replace the o-rings on the plastic-T that runs between them. Should I bite the bullet and separate them anyway? How much more work is it?
 

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Takes 10 minutes and $2, to build a sync gadge/tool. And another 10-20 minutes to do the sync and AF setting. DO NOT do a half assed job, just because you are lazy.
 

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I have searched here and on google and no info in the shop manual. Can anyone tell me where to find out what jets my bike came stock with? Right now it has 170/45 both carbs.
When in doubt the parts fiche can be your friend. Main jet was 165 and the slow/pilot jet was 42. Between the fiche and the official service manual they both take alot of guess work out of things. What air filters are you running? Here's a link...

http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

Does anyone know if that pilot screw o ring can be replaced without removing the carbs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Does anyone know if that pilot screw o ring can be replaced without removing the carbs?
Thanks for the confirmation and the link. Yes those o-rings can be replaced on the bike but I have the carbs off so it isn’t a problem. If I don’t turn the synch screw I’m thinking they “should” stay in synch. If not I can always build tool to re-synch them it’s just that the screw is a PITA to get to on the bike. Is there anything I need to watch for or tricks for splitting the carbs.
 
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