[bodasefus]

I just added hard bags to my 1994 Shadow VT1100C which facilitated the removal of the rear signal lights... I had prior to this replaced the front flashers with crossfire led bulbs and clear lenses,,, and I replaced the flasher relay with a solid state relay for led lights... all worked great... I added two led orange signal lights I got from advanced auto... when I turn on either the left or right flasher,,, all 4 signal lights flash... If i remove the new flashers and plug the stock lights back in,,, all is fine...

I would be easy to just run regular bulbs in and they would work fine... The flasher relay said it was good for all 4 corners...

Any ideas on why this is happening???

Thanks
Russ

 

[RONW]

• if you replace 2 bulbs with Led's, 2 front OR 2 rears, ye will have yourself hyper flashing. Solution .... install an Led (solid state) flasher relay *which you're done*.

• If you replace all 4's with Leds, ye will end up with 4-way flashing. Solution .... either pull the amber idiot bulb out off the dashboard socket OR later after the football game I'll post a schematic how to rewire the idiot bulb circuit or maybe during half time.

The flasher relay said it was good for all 4 corners...

as above, the Led flasher won't remedy the crossfeed takin place at the dashboard idiot light bulb's socket. Scientific fact.

 

[Beezer]

Remember the old alternator/generator lamps in the dash of the old cars? They were more than just an indicator. Burned out or removed, the system wouldn't charge.

 

[Bobolto]

I just added hard bags to my 1994 Shadow VT1100C which facilitated the removal of the rear signal lights... I had prior to this replaced the front flashers with crossfire led bulbs and clear lenses,,, and I replaced the flasher relay with a solid state relay for led lights... all worked great... I added two led orange signal lights I got from advanced auto... when I turn on either the left or right flasher,,, all 4 signal lights flash... If i remove the new flashers and plug the stock lights back in,,, all is fine...

I would be easy to just run regular bulbs in and they would work fine... The flasher relay said it was good for all 4 corners...

Any ideas on why this is happening???

Thanks
Russ

I think getting a new flasher was not the solution for you to begin with.

I suggest you call Kuyakyn's toll free technical assistance number (found on their website).

Tell them you are thinking of changing your Turn signals to Kuryakyn LED turn signals on your model bike and ASK them what would be required to do that. Tell them you need to know before you decide to buy and install THEIR Kuyakyn LED turn signals Signals. Ask them what the BEST way to do that is on your bike. You can use this info no matter what brand LED signals you install .

They have a knowledge base information system about Honda's and most makes.

 

[Beezer]

bodasefus, your problem reminded me of the same problem a friend had on his Triumph several months ago. Caused me to do a little research on the subject and it figures that the only remaining conductor in the circuit may be the problem. I don't have access to the exact schematic to your bike and so someone else here will probably be able to pinpoint the exact place, but you need a diode or diodes to isolate one side from the other. If your indicator is an incandescent lamp that's probably where you're getting crosstalk. I hesitate to provide you with my suggestion because I'm sure this problem has already been addressed here and the guys have a proven fix. I'll sit on my hands and watch your post and if none comes along I'm sure I can help you with it.

 

[Leathel]

just to confirm your new rear lights are running lights as well as flashers?

Std rear lights have been replaced on mine with LED but they are flash only not running lights

I am sure I saw diodes on my wring diagram... did you remove those?

 

[bodasefus]

The rear signals, as well as the old,,, are flashers only... However the front signals are crossfire leds,,, dual element,,, I run a clear lens and they burn white normal and orange when flashing...

 

[SnoGhost13]

This has been discussed in a few other threads but.... The dash indicator light needs rewired. The left and right feed into the indicator and use the opposite side as a ground. LED bulbs feed back through causing a 4-way flash. You need to run both wires through separate diodes to the same side and ground the opposite side of the indicator lamp

 

[RONW]

Absolutely, the dashboard idiot light has to be rewired to get rid of the point of crossfeed. The exception is if you have a separate idiot light for the right-turnsignal and a separate idiot light for the left-turnsignal (2 idiot lights), then their circuits are isolated from each other, so no crossfeed is possible.

Anyways, it's done with diodes step-by-step like this ....

Diodes look like below with two stiff wires sticking out at both ends ....

The problem is when you solder 'stiff wire' to stranded wire, it's always questionable whether you've soldered them well enough that the joint will withstand constant vibrations. Also, the solder that melts on the tips of the wire strands tends to form sharp spikes that puncture through insulation.

Fortunately, most of the hard work is done for you. Below, diodes with pigtails soldered to the diode's stiff wires and insulated as well, available here. Or google "Metric Bike Diode Kits." You'll still have to solder/crimp the pigtails to the idiot light wires but you'll be attaching stranded wire to stranded wire.

There's another solution that eliminates the crossfeed that takes place at the (single) indicator idiot light bulb. If you can find a solid state relay that has a 'P' prong. The 'P' means 'port.' You connect the P prong to one of the idiot light's wires. No diodes are necessary.

You still have to snip the idiot light wires to do this. And Ground the remaining wire. The snipped signal wires are left unplugged. Obviously since the right and the left signal wires (idiot wires) aren't connected to anything much less their opposite circuits, there's no crossfeed wired as they are in this configuration.

 

[bodasefus]

OK... thanks for the info... I will fix this today...

 

["Captain D"]

A tadd confused!

I just added hard bags to my 1994 Shadow VT1100C which facilitated the removal of the rear signal lights... I had prior to this replaced the front flashers with crossfire led bulbs and clear lenses,,, and I replaced the flasher relay with a solid state relay for led lights... all worked great... I added two led orange signal lights I got from advanced auto... when I turn on either the left or right flasher,,, all 4 signal lights flash... If i remove the new flashers and plug the stock lights back in,,, all is fine...

I would be easy to just run regular bulbs in and they would work fine... The flasher relay said it was good for all 4 corners...

Any ideas on why this is happening???

Thanks
Russ

Bulbs???
I think???

LED = Light Emitting Diode

Diodes only allow current flow in one direction, you MIGHT try a standard filament type bulb insteadda the LED ???
I dunno,
D

 

[Dingo.]

I added LED mirrors and had no problems, i added LED rears prewired with diodes (i think, they're covered). With neither did I have bleeding or 4 flash. I did have "hyper flash," but it didn't bother me. This is with the stock flasher. My rears have suffered an incident and i am about to rewire so i bought LED lights with no diode and a led compatible flasher. Why did I spend the extra money for a flasher if it's not going to work? Am i going to have this problem? What size diodes are those?

Dingo.

 

[SnoGhost13]

I added LED mirrors and had no problems, i added LED rears prewired with diodes (i think, they're covered). With neither did I have bleeding or 4 flash. I did have "hyper flash," but it didn't bother me. This is with the stock flasher. My rears have suffered an incident and i am about to rewire so i bought LED lights with no diode and a led compatible flasher. Why did I spend the extra money for a flasher if it's not going to work? Am i going to have this problem? What size diodes are those?

Dingo.

You should only run into this if all signals are led and you have a single indicator bulb. The flasher unit will cure the hyper flash issue.

 

[RONW]

I added LED mirrors and had no problems, i added LED rears

• prewired with diodes (i think, they're covered).

Led's are actually diodes themselves. They're light emitting diodes (L-e-d) or diodes that emit light when energized with electricity.

what you mean by "LED rears"? Is them led bulbs that you plugged into the rear signals that replaced the incandescent bulbs, or do you mean "LED rears" are entire rear turnsignal units?

i bought LED lights with no diode and a led compatible flasher. Why did I spend the extra money for a flasher if it's not going to work?

As said, the solid state flasher will return the hyper flashing back to the normal rate or at least reduce the rate of hyperflashing.

What size diodes are those?

Diodes are only necessary to rewire the idiot light to eliminate 4 way flashing typically after replacing all 4 signals with Led bulbs. I thought that you stated you didn't have 4-way flashing.

As far as the the specific electrical number for the diode, I forget, but somebody will post. Save yourself some and just order the freakin "Metric Bike Diode Kits" with pigtails already pre-solder on. Have you ever tried picking a diode off the rack among so many different diodes side by side to each other? Also, when soldering the diode to the bike's wires, how you sure that you hadn't over heated the diode and destroyed it?

 

[Dingo.]

Led's are actually diodes themselves. They're light emitting diodes (L-e-d) or diodes that emit light when energized with electricity.

what you mean by "LED rears"? Is them led bulbs that you plugged into the rear signals that replaced the incandescent bulbs, or do you mean "LED rears" are entire rear turnsignal units?



As said, the solid state flasher will return the hyper flashing back to the normal rate or at least reduce the rate of hyperflashing.




Diodes are only necessary to rewire the idiot light to eliminate 4 way flashing typically after replacing all 4 signals with Led bulbs. I thought that you stated you didn't have 4-way flashing.

As far as the the specific electrical number for the diode, I forget, but somebody will post. Save yourself some and just order the freakin "Metric Bike Diode Kits" with pigtails already pre-solder on. Have you ever tried picking a diode off the rack among so many different diodes side by side to each other? Also, when soldering the diode to the bike's wires, how you sure that you hadn't over heated the diode and destroyed it?

I have deleted all the stock turn signals, and do have a single bulb in the dash. I had no 4way flash-possibly due to the diodes on the rears (none on front). I have no front running lights due to the mirrors only being turns. I really don't want to splice into the bulb, but will if i have four way flash i guess.

Dingo.

 

[RONW]

I have no front running lights due to the mirrors only being turns.

Running lights have nothing to do with the 4-way flashing glitch as the low-filament wires aren't wired to the flasher.

I really don't want to splice into the bulb, but will if i have four way flash i guess.

If you don't have 4-way flashing for whatever reasons, leave the idiot bulb alone. There's not a lot of space to work around there, believe me.