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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am sure this has been brought up but what is better to run,
Standard or Synthetic oil? What weight? How often do you change it?
In my Geo Metro 3 cyl I ran Synthetic in it, and got nearly 300K
on that little thing before my Cousin talked me out of it, It still only took a quart in 1500 miles!!! He got run off the road by a Semi.. But one thing I noticed, any small leak was found by the Synthetic oil compared to regular oil..
That little car was so much fun to drive, plus the 4 MPG was pretty great!
 

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Welcome to the forum! Now if you'll excuse me, I'm goin' to make popcorn.
 

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synthetic resists heat break down, so thats a no brainer for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Enjoy that popcorn...."grin"
I was just wondering about the viscosity of it, it seems pretty thin.
 

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Take your pick!!!!
Just like anything else, there are as many answers as there are people who answer...
Schaeffer oil is my choice over any other...
I just today found it for motorcycle use :D
I`ll do a little more research before deciding which to use...

Is that POP CORN Ready YET??
:D

Welcome to HS.N,
D
 

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Well, at least I did use a JASO MA rated oil, cheap as I could find, and changed it often.

I think it's more important to use a compatible oil and change it often.

Most likely be sure to stay away from any energy conserving automotive oils as it will mess with wet clutches...
 

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Well, at least I did use a JASO MA rated oil, cheap as I could find, and changed it often.

I think it's more important to use a compatible oil and change it often.

Most likely be sure to stay away from any energy conserving automotive oils as it will mess with wet clutches...
No reason what so ever to "change it often". It's waste of valuable resources and you nothing by changing it often.
 

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No reason what so ever to "change it often". It's waste of valuable resources and you nothing by changing it often.
Seems like you dropped a "gain" there.

And changing your oil often is recommended. My bike's service manual specifically recommends an oil and filter change every 8,000 miles. I rarely exceed that. (I do, sometimes, fall short when circumstances limit my riding to fewer then 8k miles in a year. I like to start each each spring with fresh oil.)
 

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I run Synthetic Motorcycle oil I by at Wallyworld. Change every 5000 miles.
Same here but if my bike was FI I'd change according to OEM specs. but 5,000 mi. with summer temps., heavy load mileage, etc. with 6 carbs, I'm good.
 

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I bought a GM truck with 70k miles on it, it had 495K when I sold it to some kid. I used Mobil 1 syn., that's also what we used in JT-8 turbo fan engines on the 727, and DC9's at Eastern Airlines. That syn oil holds up pretty darn good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
One thing an OLD Mechanic told me in the 70's was to make sure if you are storing an engine for months at a time to make sure it has a fresh oil change in it. He told me that
as the engine runs costic vapors get mixed in the oil and as it sits that gas leeches out from the oil and can contribute to corrosion and gasket failure....makes sence.
He also had a 57 Chevy that he bought new, and in 1977 it was closing on 250K!!!
I have followed his suggestions all my life. So all my 4 strokes get a new oil change in the Fall or my Snow Blower in the Spring..
You can SMELL the bad stuff in used oil... I know for a fact Engines AND oils are much better now. As a kid I always heard rods knocking and cars with burned out valves chugging and Belching down the road...
Hell I got 34k on the worst motorcycle ever made.. the 1973 Yamaha TX-750 with the counter balance and CHAIN inside the crank case!!!.. One yamaha Service guy called them "Shrapnel waiting to happen"..LOL One dealer had a new one blow up 5 miles down the highway!!
 

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Good idea to change oil before winter storage, then run it with that oil next season. Synthetic oil has a different flow rate than conventional (not a different viscosity). Therefore, if you have a leak it will find it. On high mileage bikes, use the same oil it has been fed all it's life. On low mileage you should be good with whatever you choose. Full synthetic allows for more mileage between oil changes. Many here use the rotella synthetic, meant for diesel trucks but works well in bikes.

Dingo.
 

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Regarding this thread about various oils, let me throw this into the mix...

2000 Chevy Silverado 1500LS 4.8L V8, runs like a top. 190,000 miles.
Rotella T5 synthetic blend 10W-30. Purolator filter. Both easily available at WalMart.
No problems at all.

2007 Honda Shadow Aero 750, runs beautifully like it is is still brand new. 30,970 miles.
Rotella T6 full synthetic 5W-40. Purolator filter. Both easily available at WalMart.
No problems at all.
 

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Synthetic oil has a different flow rate than conventional (not a different viscosity). Therefore, if you have a leak it will find it.
Leaky seals, o-rings & packings are mostly from non use, weight sitting & drying deforming the seals, rings and packings.
All oils have a different flow rate based on ratings & operating temps. Flow rate is largely based on viscosity of the oil, SYN will give you a tighter viscosity range thru operating temperatures.
Have guy at work that don't ride under 60 degree weather and bike sits in unheated garage for 4-5 months and he has leaks for first couple of weeks riding. Thats hard on a bike, better letting someone ride it thru winter even if its one day a week.
 
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