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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry in advance for the long story, I'll tl;dr at the end.

So I'm battling with battery problems. A couple weeks ago I drained my battery in the cold. So while I was gone I ordered a trickle charger from Amazon (then again when FedEx couldn't figure out that if one of my packages can get dropped off at the leasing office then ALL of them should be because I'm obviously not available in the middle of the day--but that's another issue... At least the box they did deliver was booze).

Since I don't have a means of transportation, I figured I'd pull out the battery to make charging easy. I had stripped one of the bolts that holds down the seat so I walked to Sears to buy Dremel cutting bits... HUGE improvement over hand filing a slot.

So now I'm staring at a battery stuck in it's housing. Did some investigation (1
2
3
4 ). I tried pushing up from the drain hole, string strung through the posts, baking soda water, wd40, prying and jiggling with a flathead, vice grips and holding the bike upside down and shaking it, and all to no avail.

So now I'm waiting for FedEx so that I can at least get a charge on the battery, but I hate to think this thing is permanently stuck in there. Any other ideas? Could cold weather shrink it enough that I could get it out?

tl;dr: my battery is dead, thoroughly stuck in its housing, and I'm lucky I've got a ground floor apartment because I'm going to have to park on the learn near my door to charge the *******. Le sigh...

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I would try bolting a non-metal strap to the battery posts and use as a handle to pull it out.
+1 - I use a leftover piece of a broken tie-down strap. Works great.
 

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I was hoping to read the battery is out by now????

I`m trying to figure what is holding the battery in place, I`m at a loss for thought/suggestions on this...

Yeah, I picture you shaking the Bike upside down like a pepper shaker too :D

Merry Christmas,
Dennis
 

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zip ties make great battery handles too.
I could see that working...and easier to find than a broken ratchet strap!

Also, once you get the battery OUT, put a strap around the new battery before putting it back in. It will make this process much easier next time.
 

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The only thing I can think of,is the previous owner shoved in a non OE battery or your battery swelled. You might be able to snip down the side of the box if possible as a last resort. Just my .02
 

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I don't know if yours is like this but on the VT750DC their is a big hole under the battery box that you just go through and push up on the battery with your right hand fingers and with your left hand grab the battery from above and lift out. Very Easy. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I could see that working...and easier to find than a broken ratchet strap!

Also, once you get the battery OUT, put a strap around the new battery before putting it back in. It will make this process much easier next time.
This! I was trying to think of how I might wrap up the battery when I do finally get it out and I think this is the answer. Maybe I'll wrap it in cheese cloth or some other thin fabric and put a couple loops of webbing around to ease removal.

The battery is still in there, but now it's charged. But of course yesterday's balmy 65 has turned to freezing rain. Guess I'm taking side streets to work today. At least making my commute longer and slower will give it a chance to heat up and get rid of oil condensation. Stupid West Texas, you said you'd never rain!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update: It's 21 and the bike won't start. So the cover's going on and I'm leaving the charger hooked up (the indicator light says that after a measly two start attempts the charge is below 80%. I'm guessing that's an indication that I should get a new one.
 

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Once you get this battery out, I`d have it tested at your local auto parts store, they do this free here...
Have you looked to see what battery is SUPPOSED to be in your Bike? It would make life better if you put the correct battery in, when you replace it...
My latest replacement battery cost nearly $100 at the parts store that tested it for me ~ however Wal-Mart had the same battery for $80+...
It pays to ask first ;)

Merry Christmas
Dennis
 

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Mine was doing the same thing. I'd let it float charge for 3-4 days and it would start fine at first, then did what yours did. I just bit the bullet and paid the money for this Amazon.com: Buying Choices: Yuasa Factory Activated Maintenance Free Battery - YTZ14S YUAM72Z14. I just got it from Amazon for $135 W/free shipping. If you do go this route order it from Amazon through Powersport Superstore. They are in Texas,I live in Fla. and it only took 2 business days to get to my door. I've ordered 5 or 6 products from Powersport Superstore as a supplier and have always been amazed by their service. This Yuasa battery will fit perfectly and comes ready to go out of the box,just check for the proper the size for your bike,mine is a 03 vt750dc spirit. Just install,ride your bike and forget about it.Amazon.com: Yuasa Factory Activated Maintenance Free Battery - YTZ14S YUAM72Z14: Automotive
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The saga continues!

I was backing my bike away from my front door and into the parking lot and decided to give the ignition a try as long as I'm out there. Crank, rumble, sputter, it might make it! After a few failed starts I managed to tickle the throttle just right and get it running on its own volition.

So I says to myself, "might I make it into the office today?! The roads look ****** but I'm pretty stupid so maybe it'll work!" I ran inside and put on my gear (ATGATT!), plugged in my heated jacket/pants/insoles (glove cords were stuck inside the jacket) and rode very slowly up to the gas station.

To save getting on one of the major roads, I snuck in the back way through a parking lot and as I was going over a speed bump at about 2mph dropped my bike. Thank God for the crash bars! It twisted my highway peg (it doesn't look bad, just swiveled on its bolt, might need new toothlock washers but no big deal overall), but no real damage to rider or bike. I lifted it back up, regained my composure and it started up fine. Filled up, got home, and here I am.
 

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One thing I would do is check to see how many volts are getting to your battery when the bike is running. You need to check to see what volts you get at idle and then at a higher rpm like 3000 rpm. You should get higher volts at higher rpm's and they should be around 14 to 14.7 volts at the highest.
Most Honda's have a crappy old style r/r(shunt design), if your not getting good volts to the battery I would get a MOSFET r/r.
Shindengen FH020AA Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier
That way you will have a fully charged battery when you go to start your bike. This was one of the best things I've done to my VT1100-T in the 13 years I've owned it, I should have done this when I first found out about the new MOSFET r/r but I waited to long and the low volts getting to my battery killed my battery. I get 14.5 volts now at any rpm over idle, headlight is brighter too.

ROD
 

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Discussion Starter #16
One thing I would do is check to see how many volts are getting to your battery when the bike is running. You need to check to see what volts you get at idle and then at a higher rpm like 3000 rpm. You should get higher volts at higher rpm's and they should be around 14 to 14.7 volts at the highest.
Most Honda's have a crappy old style r/r(shunt design), if your not getting good volts to the battery I would get a MOSFET r/r.
Shindengen FH020AA Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier
That way you will have a fully charged battery when you go to start your bike. This was one of the best things I've done to my VT1100-T in the 13 years I've owned it, I should have done this when I first found out about the new MOSFET r/r but I waited to long and the low volts getting to my battery killed my battery. I get 14.5 volts now at any rpm over idle, headlight is brighter too.

ROD
Thanks! I'll look into this.

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