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With DynoJet kits it varies from bike to bike with what they include in the kits.
Unlike a lot of kit makers they actually make test runs for a particular bike when the put the kits together.
I also think they must start with a blank sheet each time with their selection of how to get there and with carburetors there are several paths that may end up giving you your target conditions.

An example of this are the differences between the kits is the VT750DC Spirit kit shown in the video and the VT750CD ACE kit which has no springs and is for most intents and purposes the same engine and carbs in the years 2002 and 2003. The main differences being exhaust and the air filter box. This is the same type of situation you are seeing with the kits for the variety of VT1100 bikes.

I would not worry about it as long as you get the DynoJet kit for your particular version you can be pretty sure it will work fine. As I said they do actually test the kits for specific models, unlike some of the other sellers "kits" that just have you pick an engine size and give you a few washers for the stock needles and a few steps up in jet sizes sometimes with the only knowledge of the bike being the original jet sizing and the fact that they reportedly came from the factory lean.

If it is a Dynojet kit it will be good quality, the only thing that bothers me about them is the proprietary main jet sizing.
Oh yeah and don't drill the slides, it has little if any benefit, and may come back to haunt you later if you do more mods.
Some people say that drill bit and instruction is just included in the kits to add apparent value, I'm not so sure they are wrong.
 

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FWIW I have read and been told to begin with WOT jetting. Then work thru needles and slows jets. The kit I bought the mains were too much. If mains aren't right it throws off everything else. On the other hand I knew my slows were too small at 42 because my mix screws were out 4 1/2 turns and still had popping on decel. Knowing your bike is crucial. I knew right away the difference between over fueling and starving for fuel at WOT. It's a different feel and sound. Only two jet sizes between the two. The advice given on this forum is priceless. These folks know their stuff.

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
 

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VT 1100c 1994
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111 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
That's why I have put the jetting chart in the first post, so I keep an eye on all factors. I think I will try out the jets which are dj150, dj155, dj160. The dj150 corresponds the 165 I have, I think I will take the 155 and the 4th slot on the needle.

Does the 3rd slot run it leaner or richer? In the forum I have read that some guys stepped to the 4th slot instead the 3rd as i's too lean. Now, in the manual it says grove 4.
 

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The vacuum slides pull the DJ tapered needle out of the jets as you open the throttle. The 4th groove (down from the top) means the needle is higher in the jet allowing more fuel therefore slightly more rich than the 3rd groove when using the same size jet.

G.
 

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Carbs are pretty reliable until you want to alter them. Then you get a good education of how they work.

 

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VT 1100c 1994
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Discussion Starter #30
Hi guys, thank's a lot for your support. So far, I was able to get the carbs out of the bike, which wasn't too tricky. Just takes some time. 2 hoses of the evap system were loose... I hope I find out where to mount them.

The carbs were cleaned about 1,5 years ago or so by a shop. Still, they were not perfectly clean. I cleaned the right side carb, the pilot jet (shop replaced it because it was dirty) was a bit clogged, it's a 42. Main jet is a 165, needle had 2 shims. First, I cleaned all parts and the right carb with break cleaner. Then I took some strong kitchen cleaner and a soft paintbrush, let it for some minutes, and rinsed it thoroughly. Nice and clean!

I was surprised that the float level wasn't ideal. I guess it was 1 or 2mm too low (don't know it that is a lot), which means it's too lean. I set it to 9,2 mm, more or less (adjustment is a bit tricky). I am not sure, if I take the chance to put a 45 pilot jet in. On the other hand, one should not change too many parameter.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I have a question to the experts:
I have just found out that the DJ tapered needle is a bit thicker than the ones I have until now.
Can this cause a problem? When I pick the dj155 jet, which is a bit larger than the Keihin165 I have, together with the thicker needle the result will not change a lot? This really confuses me.
 

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I would go slowly in altering your carb mixture. Too many guys jam big jets and aftermarket needles and then have to play with them for months. Why not go up 1 or 2 of sizes of jets and maybe shim the original needle, and fine tune from there. A couple of needle videos.


 

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Discussion Starter #33
thank you, that's what I was thinking, 1 small step larger jet, the dj155 is not even a Keihin 175. Depending on which source I read, the jet influences mainly the WOT, needle position is for mid range. I'll check the videos, thanks. The dj needles are definately fatter than the original ones. I will measure em.
 

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As I mentioned in post #6, you are paying a premium price for the Dynojet kit due to the research and design of the tapered needle for a specific engine. That needle is designed to work with one of three provided jets, the jet size varying on your exhaust mods ie the middle jet #155 to be used with stock exhaust.

However, As I mentioned in post #2, the results are not dramatic, with a very slight improvement to performance that occurs mainly at mid to wide open throttle.

G.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
@gdb069 I know that's why I chose DJ, because of their experience. I don't know if my needles are stock, but e.g. with the dj155 and the fatter (but tapered?) dj needle I cannot imagine that it helps. Well I will have to find out. But to me that is not logical.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
So I took a closer look at the needles and I calmed down... the original needle is thinner at the tip, but the dj needle measures approx. 0,048 in for the first 0,5 in, whereas the original measures 0,038 at the tip and has 0,048 in after 0,300 in (approx). The original one has a totally different shape, when holding with your fingers it feels thinner.

IMG20200123111351 - Edited.jpg IMG20200123111206 - Edited.jpg IMG20200123111027 - Edited.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
@h13man thanks for the link, this is what I want to do, I have bought the hoses and some brass connectors (with caps on so I can leave them there, hopefully).

I can't believe it, the engine is running after all, at least!!! I will try a test ride tomorrow, when it's not too cold.
The hoses of the evap were confusing me, dammn. My hands look like I've played with a cactus...

These are my first impressions:
The carb needed the cleaning, even that it was done about 1 year ago by the shop. What the ...? Especially the seals left some glue or so (???) and dirt, I am not sure, if it was airtight like that; so I got new rubber seals for the float chamber; I carefully oiled all joints for smooth operation; getting the chokes back in was some pain in the [email protected]@; the pilot jets didn't look that good at all (after just one year?!).

With some hints from youtube videos I got it back in. I took 2 new 45 pilots, with 2,5 turns out to start. I startet with the dj160 jet, my "strategy" is that I can go only one direction when dialing it in (155 would be the next); 4th slot on the needles ref. the manual; I cleaned and oiled the BMC air filter.

It took some time until the engine started, but then just a little choke for 3-4 mins. were needed, not bad at all. Revving in neutral was good, no problems. -

-> one question:
when revving and the revs "decrease", I had 2-3 times backfiring, not often. Does that tell me someting?

This is new to me, I have never pulled and cleaned a carb. Doing RC car models and modding high power flashlights in the earlier days helped a lot (patience, working neat and tidy).

Thanks for your help folks!!
 

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If your carbs needed cleaning after just 1 year I would switch brands of fuel. I think you have Shell and Esso in Germany. Also make sure you use a fuel stabilizer when storing for more than 3 months. Personally I would also switch back to stock air filter. If your locality is not dusty you only need to replace the stock filter every 20k km so its inexpensive.

You are saying that rpms up are OK but when you let the throttle go ie decel you are getting popping? You should be able to tune the A/F to get rid of that. Follow the manual closely and adjust for elevation.

G.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Thank you for your feedback. The popping was just a few times, too lean? I will check with 1/2 turn out (2,5 at the moment). Usually she doesn't wake up that quickly. Even if I messed up the jetting, cleaning the carbs and the good starting were worth the work.

I try to get only good gasoline, especially Aral is supposed to have really good quality fuel, Shell as well. With the bike I avoid no-name fuel. I use Wagner Bactofin for the fuel, especially for winter (good results in a test of a vintage car magazine). It has various features and stabilises fuel.

I have no clue about after market filters, I just have one in my old Mercedes Benz (instead of the oil pan filter thingie), where it works well, it's an 1971 220D.
When I cleaned the filter I first oiled with the K&N stuff but it wasn't enough, but I found some Castrol foam filter oil, which is super super sticky (y)I give this a try. I am not sure if the new filter was oiled sufficiently. I have changed the fuel filter this summer, but I will keep an eye on that.
 
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