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It sounds like you have everything right, and surprising the carb got dirty. I am also surprised that BMC filter is oiled. In any case I see the washing and oiling kit is for sale for about $20 and probably is reusable, however the stock Honda filter is also about $26 and good for 20k miles. No fuss, no mess, just drop it in.


G.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I finally decided to get such an airfilter, because the throttle response at that time was not that good. The BMC definately improved the throttle response, definately. But I know what you mean. When I bought an old used Mercedes C-Class some years ago, it came with a K&N air filter (V6 engine). With a brand new Mann paper filter throttle response was better than with the K&N, and no mess and oil. I just changed that paper filter more regularly as normal and was happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
Finally some progress here in my garage! I managed it to build a carb sync tool, once it is built and I knew where to plug it in, it's not that difficult.

I had a quick test ride yesterday. The problem that the engin runs not smooth at all still exists. It startet autumn last year.

I took some 2 stroke oil, in case that something goes wrong. A bit difficult is to reach the sync screw; it's easier to adjust when you accelerate, the screw is easy to reach (switch off the engine for a moment).

In the beginning, the front zylinder pulled a lot more then the rear, on the "2 meter tool" at least half a meter.
-->Is it possible, that this was somehow "hidde" by the adjustment of the pilot screws? Before the roughness started, the engine was pretty smooth.

In the green shop manual it says that the "1st carb can't be adjusted but the second one". Is the 1st carb the one of the front cylinder?
When I turned the screw OUT (about half turn or even more), the front cylinder pulled less. Due to the cold garage the 2-stroke oil takes a while to settle (next time I would take normal motor oil). First I had too much oil in the hose it was pain in the [email protected]@ to get it out.

Is that right that the 2.nd/rear zylinder can pull better when turning the screw out?
It's the first time I am doing that... when the carbs are balanced, I will adjust the pilot screws.

284627


many thanks
flo
 

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When you balance them you turn the adjusting screw in the center of them matching the right side carb to the left side carb. The left carb has the throttle cable and the idle speed screw so it is the "master " so too speak, and the other carb should be synced with that one.
Then go to the adjustments on the mixture screws to get the smoothest fastest idle.
Then slow the speed down again.
If the oil is bouncing too severely you can put restrictors in the vacuum lines to smooth it out. Or pinch down the lines a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
cool, thank you a lot!!!
The oil is bouncing very little, it's not that warm in the garage. So far, that tool works great, at least for the V-2 Honda I don't think that other, expensive tools work better.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I think I have got them balanced

and

4 - Edited.jpg

Its drinking fuel during the process like water... much too rich during idling, so back to the 42 pilot jets, and probably the dj155 jets.
Thanks for your help guys! The result of the sync seems ok, but you can see fuel in there... dang, back to the work bench. In the beginning they weren't close at all, I have no idea why they were so unbalanced.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Hello,

the carb sync seems to work, definately less vibrations, better performance, yet not perfect, smoothness-wise. I will try an other position of the needle and check again the carb sync. And I have some decel pops again as I went back to the 42 pilot jet. Cant remember how many turns out will check again.

How do you guys adjust the pilot screws? The explanation in the green handbook confuses me a bit. I think perfectly adjustet pilot jets improves vibrations.

Interesting: I believe that with the dj160 in the first try she revved up to +7500 rpm like crazy, with the old keihin165 she didn't do it that good. I now have the dj155 and she behaves pretty good in high rpm (usually I don't have more than 5500 rpm).

regards
flo
 

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Easy =
Warm it up and rev a couple of times. Go to one side and turn it in till it slows, turn back out till it gets faster then slows, set it to the mid way point. Go to the other side and do the exact same thing.
Go back to the 1st one and see if it is a little off, in and out a little. Go back to the other and do the same.
Try to get the smoothest, fastest idle speed. Then set the speed to where you want it about 1000 RPM.
You can always add a 1/2 turn out from there to get a bit more richness.
If you can prop the kickstand up a bit so the engine is not leaned over as far it can help the bowl fuel levels be more in a normal riding position.
 

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2 3/4 -3 turns is farthest I went on the 06' 1100 Spirit but it had 3000 mi. on it but this adjustment got rid of the de-acell popping. You go much farther you risk the spring tension not being good enough w/o silicone assist to keep in place. This effects the low speed/idle circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Thank you for your feedback. Just had a quick ride (5 deg. C outside, brrr) and tuned the pilot screws. They're already turned out so that I don't get an increase in idle. Still had backfiring, so I might take the 45 back in, OR I put the needle on the 5th slot (now 4 ref. to the manual).
 

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The decel pop may not be affected by the slide needle position since the throttle is closed and not enough air flow over the main jet bridge to pull fuel out of the needle. Slow speed circuit only works on closed throttle.
I believe it is worsened by aftermarket pipes with no cross over tube like the factory puts on.
 
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