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Discussion Starter #1
Can somebody please explain exactly how these throttle cable adjusters work?

I took off my stock grips today to put on the new ISO knockoffs I bought. Turns out I bought the ones that don't just slip over the throttle sleeve. The new throttle side grip has the holes for the cable ends to go in but is a little larger in diameter than the stock sleeve.

I got the cables seated in the control housing and I had to take off the cable bracket by the carbs to get enough slack to get those ends back in.

Now I have no snap back. I tried playing with those adjusters for awhile earlier today but I didn't really know what I was doing so I didn't get anywhere.

I have searched and searched and searched for videos or threads explaining this problem. A lot of people have had this similar issue and it's been fixed in various ways but there isn't a lot of explanation on the adjusters. My Clymer doesn't offer too much detail either, it just says to loosen the nut then turn the adjusters. My thought was that the top cable in the picture needs to be tight while the bottom remains a little loose (so that the tension on top is greater, allowing it to snap back). I'm not even sure which direction to spin these things in order to accomplish that though, let alone if that is a correct guess.

I am trying to avoid taking it to a shop or buying a longer cable. Throttle was great before I pulled everything apart. Worst case I will put the stock sleeve back on and see if that works.

I'll try lubing them and checking for kinks but I really didn't change anything too much. I am running Spirit risers but the cables are rerouted behind the triple tree so there is plenty of slack and again, everything worked fine before I started. All I did was swap throttle sleeves essentially. Need some help here.
 

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Make sure you dont have your front wheel all the way to the right. Make sure the cables dont have a kink in them from the needle nose (if you used them to take the cables off) and make sure the cables are true in the throttle connection. If they are not, it will not snap back. You can also put some lube on the cables at the carb but they have to ride true. I thought I had a problem once but it was mostly related to all my testing was done with the wheel all the way to the right. I think that puts the cable in too much of a bind.
 

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Sounds like either the push or the pull is too tight. Lube them while they are off then re-attach but not as tight. Youtube has many how too's on lubing throttle cables.
 

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Mark positons and back off cable adjustments at the throttle grip end of the cables. (your pic) Loosen right lower cable retaining/adjustment nut. Slip cable out of retaining bracket. Install cable end "barrel" into linkage like the upper cable but CW. Should be able carefully put back into bracket. Reverse order for tightening and adjustments.
 

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They are a pita on every bike I ever had..lol
 

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Can somebody please explain exactly how these throttle cable adjusters work?

I took off my stock grips today to put on the new ISO knockoffs I bought. Turns out I bought the ones that don't just slip over the throttle sleeve. The new throttle side grip has the holes for the cable ends to go in but is a little larger in diameter than the stock sleeve.

I got the cables seated in the control housing and I had to take off the cable bracket by the carbs to get enough slack to get those ends back in.

Now I have no snap back. I tried playing with those adjusters for awhile earlier today but I didn't really know what I was doing so I didn't get anywhere.

I have searched and searched and searched for videos or threads explaining this problem. A lot of people have had this similar issue and it's been fixed in various ways but there isn't a lot of explanation on the adjusters. My Clymer doesn't offer too much detail either, it just says to loosen the nut then turn the adjusters. My thought was that the top cable in the picture needs to be tight while the bottom remains a little loose (so that the tension on top is greater, allowing it to snap back). I'm not even sure which direction to spin these things in order to accomplish that though, let alone if that is a correct guess.

I am trying to avoid taking it to a shop or buying a longer cable. Throttle was great before I pulled everything apart. Worst case I will put the stock sleeve back on and see if that works.

I'll try lubing them and checking for kinks but I really didn't change anything too much. I am running Spirit risers but the cables are rerouted behind the triple tree so there is plenty of slack and again, everything worked fine before I started. All I did was swap throttle sleeves essentially. Need some help here.

Don't take this wrong way, but make sure you hooked the correct cable ends to the correct points on the throttle sleeve. Not familiar with the innards on the throttle end...maybe it's set up so the cables can only hook up one way?

And +1 to what gregg450 posted. Could be the cable is binding in the track of the new sleeve.

FYI on the adjusters....they both work the same way. They shorten the cable as it stretches over time so you can keep the free play in spec. Same for your clutch cable. You loosen the lock nut, (on the bottom/threaded side), then turn the top (adjuster) nut clockwise (up ^ in this case). That will in effect shorten the cable. You turn the adjuster down to lengthen the cable but that wouldn't be a normal need, and your's look like they have no slack to give back anyway. I'd say check the handlebar side at the throttle itself, but if you just put in a new sleeve, there's no slack there either.

Hope this turns out to be an easy fix.....good luck, and keep us posted. I'm changing my grips in the spring and this is good experience to share.....I never thought about the effect of a larger diameter sleeve.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you for all the responses guys! I think I've got the info I was looking for but I haven't been able to dig back into it yet. Been busy graduating college! (USF go bulls) I will work on it tomorrow and post results and/or frustrations.

Btw, not working with new cables, just new grips.
 

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Thank you for all the responses guys! I think I've got the info I was looking for but I haven't been able to dig back into it yet. Been busy graduating college! (USF go bulls) I will work on it tomorrow and post results and/or frustrations.

Btw, not working with new cables, just new grips.
Congrats on the college thingy!
 

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those cables have to be Looser than you think in order to work correctly. Adjust them too tight and your 'snap back' is a 'creep back' at best. They're tighter and looser depending on which direction the handlebars are turned. When set correctly, you'll probably think they're TOO loose.

Here's a good time to remind ourselves that it's always a good idea to have taken pictures before disassembly, so that you have some idea of where your starting point was! I didn't either and learned this very same lesson the hard way.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I tried adjusting them with handlebars in full turn positions. Creep when turned left, slower at middle, stuck at full right turn. I had taken before pictures so I could see the difference between stock and black. I really didn't need to though because I didn't replace any cables. All I did was remove stock grips and put the knockoffs on. Here's what they look like in comparison: The lighting kinda sucks but the point is that the new grips were slightly larger than the stock sleeve, thereby making the cable stretch too much to fit correctly. At least that's my conclusion. Not gonna pay someone to make them fit and not worth the effort anymore. I think I only paid about $30 for the knockoffs.

I finally got pissed enough today to say screw it and try putting the stock back on. Stock sleeve snaps back without issue. Might have to adjust a little bit but at least I have snap in every position. I think the cable is too short to fit for those knockoffs. They're about to be put back on ebay pretty soon. To anyone who reads this, save yourself the work and look for universal fit grips that glue onto the existing throttle sleeve!

I painted the chrome grip caps black while I had them off and that's really what I liked anyways, so it's all good. I'm also plastidipping my handlebar while everything is taken apart as well as repainting my side covers to match the paint on the tins. Can't wait to hop back on her tomorrow hopefully.
 

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I`m curious if the throttle sleeve may be in a bind????

I`d be sure everything is moving freely, as in each individual piece, moves freely by itself, in its proper place with nothing attached to it...

Something is awry here, you gotta find what it is...

Happy Graduation con-grad-ulation,
Dennis

USF was a party for me "Back in the day"
 

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I agree that the larger diameter of the new throttle sleeve is the sole culprit.It would take very little in a larger diameter tube to make the cables too short.
:) ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I tried everything I've read on this topic. Lubed the cables, checked to make sure there weren't any kinks, made sure the grip wasn't getting stuck on the bar, etc. I just got tired of dealing with it after I popped the stock back on and it worked fine. I have a feeling the ISO's woulda been too fat for me anyways.

Thank you all for the congrats. You would think having a B.S. in civil engineering would help me out in situations like these lol.
 
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