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2017 Indian Roadmaster
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Being that it is PCS season, I had to acquire a trailer. The main criteria was cost and portability. Given that a folding motorcycle trailer was north of $1500, I decided to modify a Harbor Freight folding trailer. With the addition of the front wheel chock, wood, and assorted other hardware, the total cost of the trailer was around $600-ish. It took my Dad and I about two days to put it all together. We had to add the sides in order to accommodate my wife's houseplants.

We notched the front panel in order to fit the chock and front wheel. The tiedowns are bolted to the frame itself, as well as to the wood flooring. The sides are held together by door hinges with removable pins. The sides were held in place by quick-release pins, but all but one vibrated loose on the ride from FL to VA, so I have to rethink that. The frame is held together in the unfolded position by carriage bolts, but we replaced the nylock nuts with castellated nuts, and drilled a hole in the bolts for a r-clip for ease of removal.

I was able to fold the trailer back up with the front wheel chock still installed by using small bungee cords to hold the two halves together, and rolled the whole thing through the back gate into the backyard (on-post housing), and it stands up against the fence.

One additional note...I ended up having to buy ramps to load the bike on the trailer. The trailer will tilt if it is attached to the truck, but as soon as the back wheel hit the plywood flooring, the bike would slide back down off the trailer, before I could get it into the chock. The ramps fold up and were placed next to the bike, on the trailer.





 

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Very nice!

Had to look up "PCS season" because the houseplants had me scratching my head.

Northern Tool makes a fold-up motorcycle trailer that loos nice and not all that expensive.
This one? Looks pretty good for the money but I'd never use it with my truck because I couldn't even see the handlebar. Probably be scraping the back of the trailer if I didn't lower the hitchball. But for a car of smaller pickup it would be fine.
 

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I did pretty much the same, except that I used eye-bolts attached directly to the metal frame at all four corners as tie-down points. The HF trailer is plenty good enough for everything but the most demanding use.

One thing, though...I also use the trailer to carry and launch a Zodiac, and when I changed bearing grease to waterproof marine grease (because the trailer gets submerged when launching the boat) I found a very inferior OEM grease in there. It seemed more like Vaseline than proper bearing grease. You may want to look into that.
 

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Looks good but i would put a radius on the corners of the front vertical boards where there would be no way to contact the fender, you won't lose any strength either.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
PCS? How did the rear tire slide off the plywood?
Permanent Change of Station. Moving from one Army base to another.

It was not just the rear tire, but the entire bike. As soon as both tires were on the plywood, the whole bike would start sliding backwards...I think it was a lack of traction on the plywood.
 

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I did pretty much the same, except that I used eye-bolts attached directly to the metal frame at all four corners as tie-down points. The HF trailer is plenty good enough for everything but the most demanding use.

One thing, though...I also use the trailer to carry and launch a Zodiac, and when I changed bearing grease to waterproof marine grease (because the trailer gets submerged when launching the boat) I found a very inferior OEM grease in there. It seemed more like Vaseline than proper bearing grease. You may want to look into that.
Ive heard that about the grease too.
 
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