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Discussion Starter #1
I go RV'ing a lot and I need to put the bike into my pickup.

1. I can make a ramp out of alum easy enough, how long should I make it?

2. Also once it's in there what's the best way to secure it.
 

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PU

We move our bikes quite a bit in my PU. It is a good idea to invest in an aluminum ramp. The ends grip the tail gate and make for a smooth loading process. The ramp can be stored along the side of the bed and locked. If you are going to make one, just go to a dealer and measure for sizing. Then purchase a set of nylon tie down straps. It's worth the $100 to have this equipment on hand.
 

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As far as the legnth of the ramp, I would say make it as long as you can and still fit it into the truck. I would guess the idea is to make the slope as flat as possible. Also, I would think it needs to be wide enough to sit on the bike and get both feet down on the ramp. Remember that the longer the ramp is the more likely it will bend in the middle, so build it strong enough to support the weight. If you're thinking of aluminum, you may buy a ramp for about what you could build one for. For tying the bike down, I think usually a ratchet strap is run from the forks to a tie down in each front corner of the bed, and the same from the rear shocks to the back corners. Also it's highly recommended to use a front wheel chock that will cradle the front wheel to prevent it from scooting sideways. I'm trying to figure a way to haul my bike in the truck too, since my wife doesn't ride but I want to be able to take the bike when we go on vacation.
 

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I built two ramps using 2x6 or 2x8 sandwiched between 2x4's on edge - they do not flex, they keep the wheel in the grooves. I took about a 2 foot piece of 2x4 and attached it to the truck end perpendicular to the ramp so the ramps don't try to flip over. I attached a piece of tangle angle (shelving material) to the truck side faciing down and they lip over the HD bumper to keep the ramps from slipping off the truck.

I then took strips of 3/4" material across the ramps about evey 18" for traction, like a chicken ramp.

Works great (a bit heavy but hey it's an old F250 it can take it) I walk up one ramp the bike goes up the other. It is a good idea to find a loading area to keep the ramps as level as possible, like a small hill or driveway apron.

Also remember you can start the bike and let it power itself up the ramps, no sense in wasting available HP.

When you strap it down in the truck always have straps that pull the rear of the bike backwards or some other way to keep the rear wheel from traveling left or right and forward in case of a hard stop or evasive manuever.
 

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Easy and cheap: to keep the front wheel from hitting the front of the bed put a plastic bag of pea gravel (Home Depot, etc.) between the wheel and the bed front. To keep the front wheel from turning to the side put bags of pea gravel on either side. Ditto to keep the rear wheel from "hopping" side to side. Four straps -- 2 front and 2 back -- then should be sufficient to keep it in place. But what the hell -- the more the merrier if you've got them. Nobody ever regretted having their bike TOO securely tied down.
 

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I made my ramps out of a pair of 2x10x8's and got some of those lip things that attach to the ends that make it level at the tail gate.

Works good, nice long ramp, gental grade to push/roll the bike.

4 cam locking webbing straps, one in each corner and the bike is locked down tight as a tick on a hound down. (A little southern euphmisim there, don't get excited.)
 

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i pushed my bike all the way up to the front of my pick up and ratcheted both sides of the handlebars to the side of my truck. I never have any problems at all. I ve even had to hit the breaks pretty hard with no problems o yeah i also compress the front forks down and then tighten the ratchet straps it works great for me as far as a ramp I back my pick up in a ditch never had any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do you think the kickstand should be up/down?

I'm thinking about making a some type of front wheel chock out of some scrap 2 X 6's
 

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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44649

i was goin to make the ramp but i found it here for 39.99 when it was onsale and now it 49.99. Either way i think it is still cheaper than tryin to make it. I have a short bed 4x4 dodge ram w/ 4" lift and it work just fine and the ramp fit perfectly on my truck bed.
Get some 'soft tie" and hook it around the forks - not the handle bar cause eventually you will bend it.
This is how I do it; other people might not agreed but it work just fine for me. I still have my tool box and everything in my bed. I put the bike on first gear and walked the bike up the ramp, put it on the side stand, strap it down halfway(not all the way cause you will break the fork seal) on my 2 front forks , 2 in the back on the swing arm and i ride with the tailgate down.. You might want to find some high ground to lower the slope of the ramp--this will make it easier for you. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Your right it isn't worth my time to make one, I've book marked it.

I only want one anybody want to split the purchase with me?

By the way are they six foot and fold in half?
 

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no, they're 6' long 9" wide, they would fit perfectly laying down in the bed with your truck with the tailgate close. What kind truck do you have, I have a shortbed and it fit just fine. One of my buddy have the one from Lowe, it's aluminum and it has an arc but this one is huge and couldn't fit inside his bed and he paid almost $300 for it.
I have the one i have showed you but you can also buy this one below as well, all the same.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=55424
if you know someone close by you, you guys can split the cost.
 

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Here's a pic of my zook in the back of my s-10. I haul the bigger bikes the same way, but I try to find a ditch or dock to help load or unload. This scoot is light enough to just use the 2x6 that's laying in the bed for a ramp. I use one of the cam straps to cinch the ramp to the tailgate to keep it from sliding. That is a must, if your ramp is not secure it will slide and that is a bad thing.

I have never had a problem not using wheel blocks. When I tighten down the front straps to collapse the forks, the front tire is pulled into the front of the truck box and it's not going anywhere.

Whatever you do, DON'T place a strap over the seat to secure your bike. I have seen several seats damaged from this practice.

Also, make sure to tie off the loose ends of your straps. That tail flapping around in the wind can do more damage, to itself and your ride, than you think.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
No problem with the 6' just wondering.

I have a 8' GMC 2500 HD with an 8.1, I tow a 7,000lb Airstream and sometimes 2,000 lbs of other cargo.

So the bike is like feather.
 

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Here's what I've been using for the last 10 years -- made from some old 8' boards that I had in the garage.

Yeah, the bottom one is warped. The bracket on the end was a recent addition -- it's half of a $21 ramp lit from Lowe's. Here's another look at it:

I'll get it seated better when I rebuild the ramp this summer; I'm going to a 2x8 because my rear tire is too wide to fit between the uprights.

This worked fine for my old F150 but not so well on my Ram 3500 -- which is higher off the ground. Since I've got a cap on the Ram, I'm thinking that I'll be going with a trailer rather than the pickup bed because the cap is hard to remove/reinstall and the truckbed is so high.

Here's the new device I just built for use in the truck bed or trailer:
Got the (black) tube for about $20 when I was at a dealer's open house in May. (I finally built it so I could bring my wife's new bike home in a U-Haul.) It features a small block (on the left) behind the front tire to keep the bike from rolling backwards (held down with wing nuts; unique block for each bike in my garage -- although I haven't built any yet) and hooks for the front tie downs. I've got to add a piece of angle iron to reinforce the 2x4 with the tiedown hooks plus some kind of no-slip to the bottom.
 

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I used to haul my bike on a trailer that I bought at Harbor Freight. I also bought their trifold ramp on sale for $69.00 ($112.00 regular price). When I sold the trailer and bought my pickup, I purchased a second ramp (it was on sale and I had a 15% discount coupon too) and bolted the two ramps together with steel bar inserts in the ramp tubes. (One 65" ramp was too steep an angle for me). I bought a length of 2" pipe from the hardware store and picked up two auto jack stands from WalMart. I place the pipe on the jack stands under the ramp where the two ramps join together. This makes a very stable ramp that is almost 11 feet long. I ride the bike on and off the truck. The two ramps can be separated for transporting by removing wing nuts and bolts that hold them together.

I plan to build a rack that mounts in the bed side post holes for the ramp.
 

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Do you think the kickstand should be up/down?
Down, with the bike in 1st gear.

I'm thinking about making a some type of front wheel chock out of some scrap 2 X 6's
I had one for the front that was basically just a 2x4 screwed to a 2x6 and hooks at the ends. All it did was keep the tire off the front wall of the truckbed so it wasn't much of a chock; it could slide around a LOT on a metal truckbed so it was important to cinch the bike forward.

It was really more trouble than it was worth; I like the new one MUCH better -- but I've got to get that no-slip something-or-other on the bottom. (My pickup has a liner that works fine but the U-Haul trailers are nice and slick -- even after you scrape out the ice and snow.)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
adlowe said:
This worked fine for my old F150 but not so well on my Ram 3500 -- which is higher off the ground. Since I've got a cap on the Ram, I'm thinking that I'll be going with a trailer rather than the pickup bed because the cap is hard to remove/reinstall and the truckbed is so high.
I use my truck to haul a lot of stuff, so when I was looking around at the caps they just would work with the stuff I carry.

I found this, the best part is it's only about $600, I've been using it 3 months works great.

See http://www.softopper.com

This pic is opening it up, it is fully enclosed otherwise.

 
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