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I have a 2001 1100 Spirit. I have trouble with the turn signals when it's cold out. This morning was a case in point. When I first started, the signals would not flash. When I turned either signal on, that light went dark, and would not flash. Turning off the signal brought the light back on steady. After about 10 minutes, the signal would start to flash after it had been on for about 20 seconds. By the time I got to work 30 minutes later, it was taking about 5 seconds to start flashing.

Has anone had a simlar problem. I've cleaned the contacts (by spraying contact cleaner in there). I haven't taken the switch housing apart.

The problem doesn't manifest unless it's below about 45 degrees.
 

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I've had the same problem. I take the signal switch housing apart and clean with WD-40 or contact cleaner. Then I give it a shot of lightweight oil and close it up. It's always worked for me.
 

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Then I give it a shot of lightweight oil and close it up. It's always worked for me.
Oil on electrical contacts is not a good idea.
If you would skip that step, it probably wouldn't need to be done as often. ;-)

If cleaning the switch contacts doesn't work, and they actually are making good contact, then it might be time for a new flasher unit.
 

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Had this problem, too. Started being only sometimes and only in the cold, then it got worse and worse until the turns almost never worked, even in nice weather. I finally just took the gamble and bought a new flasher, since the electrical troubleshooting is not something I'm good at. I was lucky - with the new flasher the turn signals work 100% of the time in any weather.
 

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We have mechanical flashers, right? I'm thinking maybe when it gets cold, it's sticking for some reason (not sure how a mechanical flasher works exactly.)
 

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You can't ever put on too much dielectric grease, I go thru a tube about the size of a toothpaste tube in a week or two while restoring bikes. I highly recommend it over any other lubricant, cleaner, or sealing oil for electrical connections.
 

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I replaced my flasher and the problem went away.

Ride Safely
I read in some forum that you can use a regular auto flasher if it has the same voltage - saves a little cash - anyone tried or heard of this? My flasher's on the blink - no pun intended - and I have to re-position it every once and a while to keep it working. So I'll be replacing that soon.
 

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Yeah this is classic flasher unit behavior to me. The flasher units work by using a metal that when heated changes shape. So as the current is going though, it heats to the point that it bends away and breaks contact. As they wear out this behavior gets flaky and they will either not return right because they are loosing the spring or it won’t heat enough to move away. This is way switching to leds causes problems, they doing pull enough for this action to work. Or that’s the way I have always been told they work.
 

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(not sure how a mechanical flasher works exactly.)
You can't ever put on too much dielectric grease,
The "mechanical" flashers actually work on HEAT. :shock:

Dielectric grease is an insulator. If you continue to heap it on contacts long enough, you will find out that you can, indeed, use too much.
It is NOT intended for most kinds of relay and switch contacts.

A car flasher that is pin-compatible should work fine and will be less expensive. Resist the temptation to get a "heavy duty" one as it will not flash at the right rate. Electronic flashers are better and more reliable but are somewhat more expensive.
 

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Mine did that when I first got the bike. Took the assembly apart cleaned it up and put on a thin coat of die-electric grease and no problem since. That was 3 years ago
 

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I read in some forum that you can use a regular auto flasher if it has the same voltage - saves a little cash - anyone tried or heard of this? My flasher's on the blink - no pun intended - and I have to re-position it every once and a while to keep it working. So I'll be replacing that soon.
Good to know, because I have a spare flasher from my old CM400 that I was hoping I could drop in instead of digging one off of eBay for a good $30! :mrgreen:
 

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Go to Radio Shack. Buy a can of electric contact spray cleaner. Not cheap. Spray into the turn signal switch while working it back and forth. Trust me on this one.
 

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Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I am having this same problem but have a new question. Is a turn signal relay the same thing as a flasher? Looking through the Microfiche for a 2000 Honda Sabre, I am only seeing the turn signal relay as part #38301-MF5-771, is this the part I would need to purchase? Or is it something else?

Thank you in advance,

Damian
 

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HMMM,
Being a TV technician; )
I grew up in the business, I learned by experience with good mentor ~ My Dad...
My experience with switches electrical contacts taught me to clean the switch/contacts then lubricate the switch/contacts with an Electrical Joint Chemical/Compound...(EJC) (Just food fer thought)
Several years ago, because of intermittant operation, all of the "handlebar switches" on my 98VT750 received a good cleaning and dose of EJC ~ I`ve had no problem from these switches...
NOW on to the flasher/relay unit ~
The flasher/relay on my Bike works at a very quick pace;
at first this was intermittant, then it went continuously fast...
There are safety standards set as to the speed/pace of this flashing that should be met...
I`ll be replacing the flasher/relay soon...

Quote]
When I first started, the signals would not flash. When I turned either signal on, that light went dark, and would not flash. Turning off the signal brought the light back on steady.[unQuote
This tells me that the turn signal switch is working...
Good Luck and Merry Christmas,
Dennis
 

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Solid state Fasher/Relay is very common these days. If your original electro-mechanical unit is acting up, toss it and get a modern solid-state unit that will also work with L.E.D. replacement bulbs. You will need to make some mods to connect it as the Shadow connector is unique for the flasher unit. I bought a car replacement for like $12 and made an adapter for the harness connector because I plan on swapping out the old incandescent bulbs for L.E.D. replacements at some point.
BTW, the Solid State units are not temperature sensitive like the old ones.
 
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