I wanted to drain the carburetors for winter storage. Unfortunately I unscrewed what turned out to be the the idle jet screw ( looks similar to the carb drain screw ) on the right carb. After multiple turns out I figured it was the wrong one so I screwed it back in. It seated finally and I snugged it down until it felt "spongy" like it could be tightened a bit more but I stopped. I have no Idea if its set right now but the bike seems to Idle and rev up ok. I thought of trying the other side to see how many turns ( if any ) it is turned out but for now hands off until I find out more about it. Does it make sense that the screw would be correctly set turned in all the way?
Turned the Wrong *dammit* Screw
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Turn it until it just touches the rubber o'ring and then back it out two and a half turns.
John.
John.
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It depends if you are talking about the idle speed screw or the idle mixture screw. If idle mixture, all the way in and back out 2 1/2 turns as John said. That will get you close enough to run. If idle speed, the turn it till it idles at the right speed.
You said it runs fine? Either one of these screws will make a dramatic difference in idle and or rev.
Better post a pic of the said "dammit" screw so we are on the same page.
You said it runs fine? Either one of these screws will make a dramatic difference in idle and or rev.
Better post a pic of the said "dammit" screw so we are on the same page.
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But if it's cold enough to drain the carb and put it away it's probably too cold to do any serious tinkering. Moth ball it for now and research what to do when you untarp it in a few weeks.
+1. 3 1/4 turns on my 06' stock everything 1100 Spirit. Done away with the deaccel popping for the most part.
its hard to get the idle screw exact, but it doesnt hurt much if your off a bit.
you basically want to tighten it down, and get the bike to running temp at idle, then open it a bit and listen to the idle speed. at optimal, the idle should speed up a bit. when the idle is at its fastest your idle screw is set.
if your idle is too high after adjusting the fuel air mix screw, then turn the idle down with the idle adjuster screw (the one that isnt the idle fuel air screw).
you basically want to tighten it down, and get the bike to running temp at idle, then open it a bit and listen to the idle speed. at optimal, the idle should speed up a bit. when the idle is at its fastest your idle screw is set.
if your idle is too high after adjusting the fuel air mix screw, then turn the idle down with the idle adjuster screw (the one that isnt the idle fuel air screw).
You never want to tighten it down. You should lightly seat it. If you tighten it down, you can damage the seat area.
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i believe you are talking about the altitude adjustment screw. its not really an idle screw or a low speed adjustment, it simple richens/leans the the fuel mixture and effects only low or zero throttle, hence popping on decel. it doesnt't really matter how cold it is, you just need to get it up to running temp. 2 1/2 turns out is a good spot, the bike will start, idle and get up to operating temp, no problem. then you turn in the screw until idle drops, then turn the screw out until idle is at its peak (the book may say to then turn it in 1/4 of a turn). repeat on the other carb.. your altitude screw is now adjusted. no worries. cheers.
it isnt impossible for one to be further out than the other either, so if one is out 2 turns, and one is out 3 turns but it idles good i say **** it, and leave it that way.
(basically, if your intake or exhaust are different lengths, one cylinder may run richer than the other.)
(basically, if your intake or exhaust are different lengths, one cylinder may run richer than the other.)
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I do hope that was a joke...
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That looks to be the Air/Fuel adjustment screw. Your idle speed adjustment thumbscrew should be on the left hand side. I don't know what the initial setting is for the carb A/F on your bike but could be somewhere around 3 full turns out from seated for your 2004 Sabre 1100. Hope that helps.
Happy New Year
I need to order a new set of pilot screws for my 04 Sabre 1100. I think it had a spring ,washer and oring before I dropped it and it boinged away. ( I found the old screw ) Anyway, I have been on Bike Bandit OEM parts listing but cant really pick out what I am confident is the correct parts on their parts diagrams. I'm thinking of replacing them on both sides at the same time.
Anyone ordered these parts before and have part numbers ?
I'm not married to OEM either , just figure its the best way to go replacing carb parts.
I need to order a new set of pilot screws for my 04 Sabre 1100. I think it had a spring ,washer and oring before I dropped it and it boinged away. ( I found the old screw ) Anyway, I have been on Bike Bandit OEM parts listing but cant really pick out what I am confident is the correct parts on their parts diagrams. I'm thinking of replacing them on both sides at the same time.
Anyone ordered these parts before and have part numbers ?
I'm not married to OEM either , just figure its the best way to go replacing carb parts.
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2,129 Posts
Check out this site. I've order from them before. All OEM parts and better than going to the dealer. http://www.metricpartsoutlet.com/index.htm
What site would that be?:roll:
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Oops, I added the link to my post.
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