[Ebacon]

Got another 83 vt750 last week. So when I'm going down the highway and I open up the throttle suddenly the engine revs and nothing happens but if I crack it open slowly it accelerates. I'm pretty sure this means the clutch plates need replacing. Your thoughts?

 

[smilie]

Got another 83 vt750 last week. So when I'm going down the highway and I open up the throttle suddenly the engine revs and nothing happens but if I crack it open slowly it accelerates. I'm pretty sure this means the clutch plates need replacing. Your thoughts?

You could be right, but I'd try a good oil change first. Forgot to ask, is the engine revving high after shifting and letting out the clutch?

 

[Ebacon]

Sorry I should have mentioned the first thing I did was change the oil and filter. This occurred while riding steadily in say 3,4 or 5 if i gun the throttle the RPM climb but nothing happens in power train. But if I ease into the the throttle the bike accelerates as expected

 

[smilie]

You may still need clutch plates, but do you know for sure what condition the hydraulic system for the clutch is in? Perhaps full of crap and not totally disengaging? You DID say it was a "new to you" bike.

 

["Captain D"]

Unfamiliar with your model, but this is typical symptoms of a "slipping clutch"

G`mornin HSN

 

[Ramie]

It depends on what type of oil you just put in it, if it contained friction modifiers that could be your problem. Make sure your using a proper oil for wet clutches. I've have seen people have luck putting a proper amount of sea foam in their oil, running for a few days then changing the oil. It could also be that you need new clutch plates. Does that bike use a cable or hydrolic clutch. If it's a cable you might want to check if it needs adjusting.

 

[John Hopkins]

It is possible that you have worn clutch plates or even clutch springs, but I have replaced old plates with new ones and when I compared the old with the new there was no wear, If the bike has been standing for any length of time the plates could have dried out and become coated in a very shiny gloss that prevents grip..

Obviously you should not use oil with friction inhibiters on a wet clutch system that relies on friction to work. And as already said you can't expect a hydraulic clutch system to work at maximum efficiency if the fluid is dirty and worn out.

Easiest first, check that your oil is formulated for motorcycles with a wet clutch.
replace the hydraulic fluid into a cleaned system. ride for at least 500 miles to allow the oil to circulate, and then if all else fails change the plates and springs.

Just advice, feel free to do something else instead..

John.

 

[Ebacon]

John,
I appreciate the order of things as I was trying to figure out which task would provide the least friction... Master and/or slave rebuild, (already bled and put in new fluid) new friction plates, etc...

I feel a little silly it never occurred to me that I can't use regular Mobil1 10w40- that I have to use "clutch oil"

 

[7xclm]

I think you have been on here long enough to know what oil needs to be used.

 

[Ebacon]

Ouch

 

[Scared]

The oil I use is made for diesel trucks. (Rotella T6) Doesn't have to be a "motorcycle oil". Just as long as it has the JASO rating.

 

[Ebacon]

I found a good JASO oil that is pretty inexpensive compared to regular synthetics. Thanks for not razzing me too hard during my duh-huh moment (having said that I'm confident this is not related to the clutch slipping but it surely does not help)

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/motorcycle-atv-oil/


https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-4t-motorcycle-oil