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VLX VT600 Valve Lash Inspection
Performed on a 2007

Every time I have to do something and can't find decent information about someone else having done it first I'ma make a write-up with pics.
Here are the instructions from the service manual. The only useful information I can add is that I had to remove the mounting bolt at the bottom of my radiator because there is no useful clearance between the upper radiator hose and the inspection cover bolt behind it. I bent one of the radiator rubber mounts wrestling it before I gave in and unbolted it. You won't get a lot of clearance but you need every mm you can get. My bolts were very tight and appeared to have some thread sealer on them. I couldn't get them off with just an allen wrench and ended up cutting a nub off so I could use my ratchet. The wrench size is 5mm. You will also need one of those allen wrenches with a rounded end for the rear bolt under the frame because you cannot get straight at it.



INSPECTION
NOTE:
Inspect and adjust the valve clearance while the engine is cold (below 35 'C/95 'F).
Remove the fuel tank. Remove the air cleaner housing



Remove the air cleaner chamber and inlet duct.



Remove the crankshaft cap.
hole cap and timing hole.



Remove the bolts and valve adjusting covers from the cylinder head covers.



NOTE:
Adjust the front cylinder valves first.

FRONT CYLINDER HEAD
Rotate the flywheel counterclockwise to align the "FT" mark with the index notch on the left crankcase cover.
Make sure the piston is at TDC (Top Dead Center) on the compression stroke.

REAR CYLINDER HEAD
Rotate the flywheel counterclockwise to align the "RT" mark with the index notch on the left crankcase cover.
Make sure the piston is at TDC (Top Dead Center) on the compression stroke.
Inspect the clearance of all three valve by inserting feeler gauge between the valve.

VALVE CLEARANCE: IN: 0.15 mm (0.006 in) EX: 0.20 mm (0.008 in)

ADJUSTMENT
Adjust by loosening the lock nut and turning the adjusting screw until there is a slight drag on the feeler gauge.
Hold the adjusting screw and tighten the lock nut.
TORQUE: 23 N.m (2.3 kgf-m , 17 Ibf-ft)
TOOL: Valve adjusting wrench 07908 - KE90000 or 07908-KE90100 (U.S.A. only)
NOTE:
Apply oil to the nut and bolt threads.
Check the O-rings of the valve adjusting covers for damage and replace if necessary.
Install the front and rear valve adjusting covers.
Tighten the cover bolts to the specified torque.
TORQUE: 12 N.m (1.2 kgf-m ,9 1bf.e)

I would rate this job around medium difficulty if you're comfortable working on things. Not hard, but the tight spaces make things frustrating. I won't be checking the lash again unless I have a reason to like poor performance or odd noises. Having everything removed to get at the inspection covers made changing plugs a breeze so I recommend making this a two-birds-with-one-stone job unless you're pretty certain you need to get in there.
 

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Very informative. The details probably get scoffed at until an owner has to actually adjust the valve lash himself. Usual, I guess. I have the same model and year bike but not the deluxe version. The deluxe has the extra chrome. And absolutely, accessing those valves tappets take up most of the time. Honda installed inspection hatches so you don't have to remove the entire cylinder heads to adjust the valve lash but getting those hatches off is still a task.


It's easier to remove the air snorkel if you detach the PAIR hose at one end by undoing the spring clamp (arrow), then pull the PAIR hose off to the side. Unlike others, that spring clamp is easy to put back on.


Grind down the L on a hex wrench to the appropriate length to reach the front socket bolts shown. You won't be able to torque it back to specs, oh well.



As far as the rear socket bolts, they are indeed reachable. Just nudge the wire harness etc. obstructing the socket bolts out of the way with a hex bit on an extension. I might have temporarily detached the rear PAIR hose, I forget.
 

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I can't find TDC, I see marks with no letters, RT, F, FT.

Then, you'll have to open the access hatch to find TDC 'compression stroke'. When at TDC compression, both intake and exhaust valves should have a gap, are loose, at the tappet because the cam lobe isn't pressing the tappet down on the valve stem, against the coil spring. Make sure to line up the nearest mark on the crankshaft though.

There is also TDC exhaust stroke. However, at TDC exhaust stroke, the cam is pressing down on the exhaust valve stem leaving no gap between the valve stem and the tappet. So 'both' valves won't be loose. I had to grind down an L-shaped allen wrench to reach the access hatch.

283662
 

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I can't remember where I read about it, but when in RT or FT if I turn 360° or 720° idk, I should be at TDC. I can now feel the gap and my front cylinder feels like having a bigger gap than the rear one. My bike had some issues with the rear cylinder where it was smoking white. And we checked compression on both engines and it only reached 85.

When started the bike, everything seems fine than after 5 min running it started to loose power. My friend believes its the valves, so we gonna check it and hope it works.
 
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