Honda Shadow Forums banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys i got my new rocker box in and the Tach fixed. I need to adjust the valves and don't know the proper clearance/exactly where to put the feeler guage. I have the manual but i've never done a valve adjustment before and was hoping for some help.

Also i have NO pressure in my front brake. The shop let air into the system. I've tried bleeding it but no success. Any suggestions?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
hey me again---how did you try bleedin them?-----the typical way is to squeeze the lever all the way and hold it, crack open the bleeder, let fluid run out, close bleeder, let go of lever--------then squeeze the lever multiple times and hold down again repeat until you have brake pressure

If this doesnt work you could back bleed them-------open your master cyl cover, get a small oil pump can, hook a hose from it to your bleed screw, fill can with brake fluid, pump all air out of hose before hooking to bleeder, open bleeder and start pumping fluid----get a small syringe and suck fluid out of master cyl as you go so you dont overflow. just keep going until your sure the air bubble has worked its way to the top---close bleeder and check brakes-----DANG SHOPS will mess u up every time--Good Luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i tried it the first way you stated with no luck what so ever
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,476 Posts
Did you end up having to pull the engine?



Adjustment is as per your books, pull the small covers off the side case cover, and two covers off your valve cover and follow the books directions.

After you adjust to spec and tighten the lock nut on the adjuster double check the lash as it will likely change a little when you tighten the lock nut.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
no i didn't have to pull the engine. all i had to do was move the spark coils out of the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
so here's a question. Which is the adjuster and which is the lock nut? Is the box end wrench part on the rocker arms the adjuster or the lock?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,476 Posts
Box end is the lock. Adjust with a small wrench tighten with a second 10mm wrench while holding the adjustment part.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
748 Posts
The part that looks like a nut is the lock nut. The adjuster is the part that screws into the rocker and is used to adjust the valve lash. The lock nut turns on this threaded shaft and is used to 'lock' the adjuster in place so that your adjustment stays within spec. As stated earlier, it usually takes a few tries to get this adjustment correct because as you tighten the lock nut, the adjuster changes with it and your adjustment becomes too small. After a while you'll figure out that you need to set the lash a little lose to compensate for this. Try to hold on to the adjuster with a needle nose or similar to avoid having the adjuster turn as you tighten the lock nut.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
So I tried to do the adjustment and cannot for the life of me get any of the locknuts to move. Any Suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Put one wrench on the lock, another on the adjuster such that you can squeeze the wrenches together with one hand and it will loosen the lock (be careful not to go the wrong way and over-tighten it - top wrench should hang off to the left of the bottom wrench).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
hello guys, does anyone know how the get the brake fluid back to the system when it was drained all out ? Most of advise is take it and refill in the same time by bleed valve but I drained all the fluid out by the small screw under brake caliper ( not by the bleed valve ). I've tried to bump the fuild back on but it's just stucking at the master cyl. I squeeze brake lever, it pump the oil, then i release it sucks the fuild back to. The fuild doesnt move. I checked all the system and they are all good, no leak. I know I did wrong somewhere but I cant figure. I'm insane now. :(

p/s : sorry JP50515 because disturbing your thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No worries man. That'll help me with my brake problem if someone gives a good answer cuz i think mine is doing the same thing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
im tellin ya---back bleed it man--there is no way air can remain in the system--- get a cheap oil pump can, fill it with brake fluid--get a piece of tubing to go from the can to your bleeder screw and pump into the system----open your master cyl and suck out fluid that tries to overflow or sop it up with a rag or just let it overflow if you dont mind making a mess---pump like 2 cans full of fluid through the system--tighten the bleeder and try it---its not that complicated

if that dont work then the shop that messed it up, messed up your master cylinder some how. JEEZ

OIL CAN:
20 Oz. Flexible Spout Oil Can

use this and some 1/8 tubing from the hardware

SYRINGE:
100ml Large Plastic Disposable Syringe For Measuring | eBay

here is a sucker tool so you dont make a mess
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
vukloa_le, bet you put the screw back in, correct? When you did, you sealed the system, the air has no way to escape. Opening the bleeder screw will give it a path out of the system.

I have never heard of the "backfilling" method, but like it. Forcing fluid in from the bottom and using it to push the air out of the top sounds like a good way to do it. (filed for future fixes) :mrgreen:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,027 Posts
My valve technique:
1. Loosen the lock nut, ignore the stem.
2. Place the feeler and finger tighten down the stem.
3. Leaving the feeler in, lightly snug down the nut, you may need to hold the square top stem with pliers. Alternately, I find it easier to: (a) hold it with a piece of aluminum bar with a notch filed into it. (b) If you find it going out of spec as you torque (it can be maddening), my fall back is this never fail technique:
- get a 5mm socket - usually a 1/4" drive.
- Use that to hold the stem position as you torque. I filed the sides of the socket so it wedges in an open wrench for holding. 1/4" bar stock with a 90 degree turn would work too.
4. Torque to spec (17 ft pounds for mine) with a 10mm crow's foot and wrench that has been calibrated. Critical if using a cheap chinese wrench that can be 1/3rd off at low settings. PM me for my easy DIY calibration technique.

Be sure to stuff the chain tunnel with a rag in case anything gets away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
vukloa_le, bet you put the screw back in, correct? When you did, you sealed the system, the air has no way to escape. Opening the bleeder screw will give it a path out of the system.

I have never heard of the "backfilling" method, but like it. Forcing fluid in from the bottom and using it to push the air out of the top sounds like a good way to do it. (filed for future fixes) :mrgreen:

You know , I think my bleed valve screw might have something wrong. It dont let the air go thru. I tried to blow it by my mouth. GEEZ :mad:
I even tried not to use the bleed valve screw ( I took it out and used my finger to cover the air hole when I squeezed.) It didnt work at all.

Filling the system backward sounds good. However, I dont understand how the cyl can suck the oil back to the hose since you gotta squeeze it to press the oil. Do you have to squeez the brake level when you pump the oil go thru the bleed valve ? How do you know the system was full of filling ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,476 Posts
Vacuum brake bleeder kit. Cover off the MC full of fluid, vacuum bleeder on the bleeder at the caliper. Pull fluid through and keep the MC full. Go until there are no bubbles, than bleed as normal.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top