Also, do you have video of how it runs?
thank you!This pdf chart shows the 650 Deauville timing.
The inner valve springs are necessary, the rest can be reused if in good shape as they are mostly the same, the spring seats on the 750 ACE are all ready for double springs and I would imagine the 750DC is the same, but better check all the part #'s.
There is no point in changing the cams unless you are willing to spin the engine beyond the factory limit and you need the valve pressure increase to do that and of course the ignition box with the higher limit.
I have no video of my 750 ACE running, but it does run well or at least did 3 weeks ago when I last had it out, it feels like a completely different engine character compared to stock.
Most of my limited riding lately is restricted to short runs on my Versys as I'm trying to break it in and the rest of my traveling seems to be stuck with people in the car. )-;
One of these days I should get a GoPro and rig it up, but it isn't high on my list.
That makes sense the VT600C until 1998 wasn't rev. limited until 8000 rpm, the power was all done at 6500 or so, but Honda let them spin.Also, I just did a cross reference, it turns out the valve spring part numbers for VLX 600 are the same.
Welp, I pulled the trigger the UK Deauville camshaft on eBay, $89 total shipped, luckily I have a spare vlx 600 in my garage so I’ll rip the springs from there.That makes sense the VT600C until 1998 wasn't rev. limited until 8000 rpm, the power was all done at 6500 or so, but Honda let them spin.
Completely understand that.@LAsfinest_SS750 Oh snap, someone else getting into cam profiles and such. Feel free to PM me, I don’t post much but I lurk all the time and I can identify every single RC44 compatible cam by the casting marks on the shaft itself, I’ve always been interested in how the Deauville cams would work in a 750. Been planning on swapping in the pre 99 VLX 600 MR1 cams and springs to replace the Anemic KW0 for a while but life took over hehe.
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I wanted to go to a single carb on my '05 VT750 Spirit. Purchased a pair of heads from an '06 Aero and swapped out. Found out the Spirit cam rides on 4 journals and the Aero only has three. So had to use the Aero cams. Put a 34mm Mikuni on it, seems to run good. Just finished this job. I hadn't found all this info before I started. It's been interesting.There is lots of mixing and matching doable but some may not work easily and most are not worth it when one equates the dollars/time vs. benefit.
The VT600 has an external hard oil line to the top end complete with banjos, where as the 750 uses an internal passage in the cylinder casting.
The rear exhaust port is reduced diameter on the VT600, Honda did this to balance the cylinder flow, I think.
The VT750 has ports the same size and the cylinders are balanced by carb jetting instead.
I'd stay clear of the single carb VT600 heads, I understand they have reduced intake flow as does obviously, the intake manifold and then things are topped off with the KW0
The '99 and later VT600 lost a bunch of power compared with the earlier engines, I think Honda claimed about -2 hp, but the performance figures would indicate a loss of around 7 or 8 hp.
The last year NT650 ('91 only) has internal oiling to the heads and they should/maybe bolt up to the VT 750.
I wanted a pair as my first choice, but could not find any without a bike attached.
I don't know when the Deauville changed to internal oiling, but figure they must have as the Africa Twin and TransAlp made the change.
any helpful pointers for swapping springs and valves?Not something I would consider, but it might appeal to some folks as there are quite a few that have attempted single carb conversions with varying success and this sounds like a rather clean solution.
Thanks for posting it.
Pulling the heads does make sense especially if you have signs of excessive carbon build-up or the compression is a bit low.Idk pulling the heads and cleaning all the carbon and lapping the valves with some compound and a lapping tool might be worth it. Are the head bolts one time use? Btw I love this posti been keeping up on it and been thinking about a winter project
Lot easier than I thought, I just bolted down the a 10mm wrench to both cam holder bolts.No real tips, you basically have the choice of pulling the heads and using a C-clamp style valve compressor or doing an overhead valve spring replacement and of course an automotive OH spring compressor won't fit at least not the one I had, likely Snapon has one that will work for $.
The is a video somewhere on the Web that I used for inspiration where the guy replaces valve seals on a Africa Twin or TransAlp with the engine in the frame without removing heads of course the frame is different. Sorry no link for that either.
Anyway I did it without pulling the heads it was a fair McIver hassle and I ended up making three pry-bar type spring compressors, with a bend and a hole to clear the keepers, more or less like a Stanley Wonder bar without the hook made out of 25mm x 8mm bar stock but a bit longer for leverage and they levered off a bracket I made that bolted to the side of the head using two of the fin bolts and caught the pry bar end as a fulcrum with a double nutted eyebolt. II used a flex magnet to scoop the keepers. I could push the intake retainers down with my thumbs originally they were a lot tougher on reassembly with the extra spring.
For the cylinder head I found top dead center backed it up a bit, put 3/16" rope/cord in the plug hole and brought it up again to top dead center to hold the valves closed.
Put shop towels everywhere, plug all holes you don't want valve keepers or other stuff in the crankcase
Follow the procedure in the Service Manual for camshaft removal and timing. I used a long screwdriver to push back the cam chain to loosen the tension on the adjuster and vice grips to hold the wedge. A 2mm bicycle spoke piece works for the locking pin.
Set the valve clearance like usual for the cam.
Now if I was going to do it again I think I'd consider pulling the heads and buying gaskets, it might be easier enough over all to make it worthwhile over the additional costs.
The Service Manual says you need to pull the engine to remove the rear had but you don't, you can double nut and remove the offending cylinder stud for tipping clearance to get it out.
There is other stuff I should remember but it is 3 years ago, I didn't take pics or video and my memory has had better days.
I allowed a weekend to do it, but domestic stuff happened and it took a month 'til completion. )-;
That is thinking outside the box I created myself, thank you it is great what you can learn here.Lot easier than I thought, I just bolted down the a 10mm wrench to both cam holder bolts.
used It it like a cross bar, then used 21” wrench and leveraging pressure on the 10mm as a cross bar as it puts pressure on the retainer, with help of my son it used a magnet to pull out the wedge keepers. Took total 10min each side.
What about the camshaft? Did you reuse the 750 cams? Or unbolt both bolts form cam gear?That is thinking outside the box I created myself, thank you it is great what you can learn here.
I made my life far more difficult than it had to be, I think of the time and money I wasted.
Oh well it's not the first and will probably not be the last time. (-: