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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have converted a 2009 VT750C2 Shadow's rear turn signals to also include running lights. I changed the single pole contact to a double and wired the extra lead into the license plate light. I inserted a two wire bulb into the mounting plate and filed off the extra peg so as to not alter the mounting plate. All seems to be working well, but I'm curious if there may be any advice on something I don't know. The whole conversion cost about $11.00 from Pep Boys. I wrote up the procedure with photos if anyone is interested.
 

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I have converted a 2009 VT750C2 Shadow's rear turn signals to also include running lights. I changed the single pole contact to a double and wired the extra lead into the license plate light. I inserted a two wire bulb into the mounting plate and filed off the extra peg so as to not alter the mounting plate. All seems to be working well, but I'm curious if there may be any advice on something I don't know. The whole conversion cost about $11.00 from Pep Boys. I wrote up the procedure with photos if anyone is interested.
I'm interested!
 

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i would like to see this to and talk to others who have done it

do i need to switch my lenses to red for running lights? or clear with red bulbs ?

my 04 shadow sabre has amber turn signals
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tail light Conversion

I'd be happy to forward the document that I assembled, with photos. I think to requires a message from my contact info. By the way with the added visibility, I have not changed the color of the rear turns (now turns and running) and frankly, until the man says I have to, I don't really care.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
VT750 Tail light/running light conversion

OK, so here is the word description, I'm not sure how to ad the pics, but if you want the document (with pics) send me a message with your email.

VT750C2 – Taillight conversion – Cost about $11.00 at Pep Boys
Background
The Honda VT750C2 Shadow comes factory equipped the turn signals front and rear, but only the front fixtures also illuminate as running lights. Described here are the parts and procedure used to convert the rear turn signals to include running lights to match the front fixtures for addition visibility and safety.

Parts - 2 Pkgs of double contact pigtails # 85801
- 1 Pkg Sylvania double filment taillight bulbs #1157
- 1 pkg butt connectors

Proceedure
Starting from a standard rear taillight,
remove the amber lens.

Remove the bulb,
remove the two screws holding
the bulb mounting plate and pull
the mounting plate out of the fixture,
as the wire will allow
and fold down out of the way.

Using needle nose pliers, pull the single
contact cap out of its base and cut off
about 1 ¼" followed by attaching one
connector. Remove the round base
from the double contact set. Notice the arrow shows the tab on the top plate of the double contact set.
The rubber plug on the left side of the
Fixture has a center piece that must be
partially pulled out to allow a fish to
come through and get the new wire
through the shaft. I used a miniblind cord
stringer as it is smaller than an electrical
fish. The arrow shows the stringer as it
goes through the space that the wire
comes through to the under fender side
for power. This is a simple wire pull
through the channel.

Once the wire is fished through, connect the short side wire, in the housing, to the butt connector. This reconnects the turn signal power.

Take the double contact wire and spring assembly and
manipulate it into the mounting shaft that housed the
original single contact pigtail. The mounting ring, where the
two contact heads ride, has a tab that must be at the top of
the ring in order to line up correctly with the bulb contacts.
The arrow shows direction that the notch needs to go into
the housing assenbly.




To connect the wires to power, use the license
plate power which is easily accessible under the
fender. Pull the bulb out of the mount for easier
access and splice the two wires to the one side
that delivers power to the light. Determine this
by touching a lead to one side or the other of the plate light bulb socket, with the bulb removed, and
with the key on. Make sure to replace the wire retaining hook and tuck the wires as possible.

The bulb needs to be altered in order to fit the
base, without altering it, to accommodate
the staggered double pin on the bulb shaft. This
is done by filing the upper pin off.

Before and after shown.

Having inserted the wire assembly in the base housing, reverse your original disassembly procedure and
replace the mounting plate and two screws.
Insert the bulb and try the power by turning on the bike's key.
If the brighter of the two filaments is blinking, your fine, if not take the bulb out and reverse the bulb
and the correct filament will light. The brighter of the two should be the turn signal, the lesser should be
the running light. The turn signal relay will drive the signal at a fast rate and not function properly if the
smaller filament is used for this function.
Once it all checks out and works reassemble the lens cover and your done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
SO maybe this will help. These should follow the progression of the preceding post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
14 days and AOK

Just an update, it's been 14 days and the wiring conversion has no issues. Has anyone else tried this? I have kept the amber plastic on these turn signals/now running lights and I think I like the visibility better.
 

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I'll be doing it as soon as I order a new tail light.
 

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somebody suggested to use ruby red dye,to dye the lenses red,im most states its illegal to have amber continuously lite on rear of any motorvehicle,but as you stated,til the man says otherwise..lol..just an idea if he does...also www.motolume.com has red lenses for stock lights for hondas,for most cruisers for 20bucks. nice job on that too btw..ive been wantin to do this for along time now..and have been doin alot of research as to easiest/cheapest ways to do this..however i dont want mine to be lite up real bright on the taillight side of it,so im goin to wire it up with an 1157 dual element bulb/wires on the "low side" so that when the signal light/brake light comes on itll light up on the "high side" to make it brighter. thanks for sharin this. safe riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I tried the high side light up and the result was that the turn signal timer was thrown off and blinked the light at roughly two times the right speed. With this result I simply rotated the bulb 180 degrees and it worked great on the correct filament/signal set up. By the way, I have to set to running lights on low light and turns on high, I do not have brakes on these turn stems, brakes are only on the center original. Still, for $11 including bulbs, it's more visibility. I'm so cheap (Scottish)
 

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I tried the high side light up and the result was that the turn signal timer was thrown off and blinked the light at roughly two times the right speed. With this result I simply rotated the bulb 180 degrees and it worked great on the correct filament/signal set up. By the way, I have to set to running lights on low light and turns on high, I do not have brakes on these turn stems, brakes are only on the center original. Still, for $11 including bulbs, it's more visibility. I'm so cheap (Scottish)
ill play around some with the wiring to see which works best..i may just do the tail/turn instead...did you have to put a little bit bigger fuse in? someone told me to either run heavier wire,or say instead of a 15amp use a 20amp fuse.(just an example)<....to keep from overloading the circuit..idk,,yeah im so cheap too. id really like to have mine as run/turn/brake though,like i said,ill play around some hookin it up to see what works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't know that bumping the size of the fuse would be a bad thing at all, but I didn't and am having no issues. When you go with three lights, that may need a bigger fuse and wiring. How expensive could it have been for Honda to have done this on the bikes originally?
 

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I don't know that bumping the size of the fuse would be a bad thing at all, but I didn't and am having no issues. When you go with three lights, that may need a bigger fuse and wiring. How expensive could it have been for Honda to have done this on the bikes originally?
i agree 100%..honda and other metric bikes shouldve made the rear like the front,with multiple taillights/brake lights,i first noticed them on a harley sportster and really liked the way it lit up the back of the bike,it was way more noticible then the other sportster i was riding with that didnt have the tail/turn/brake light combined..and i thought,hmmm..im goin to redo mine, im goin to order the red lenses for mine and then ill rewire it...ill def post pics of b4 and after once i get this done..hopefully within the next cpl weeks.
 

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Thats looks like a good add on like Craig says most states if not all you can't use amber for tail light. I think I'll try that on mine.
 

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Nice job Dunc. I'll be doing this conversion Saturday when I get my new hardbags. Have to relocate the turn signals anyways so I might as well spend the extra $11 while everything's apart. Thanks for the info !
BTW - Whats a butt connector? ( sounds so dirty. lol ) I don't see it in your pics.
 

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i agree 100%..honda and other metric bikes shouldve made the rear like the front,with multiple taillights/brake lights,i first noticed them on a harley sportster and really liked the way it lit up the back of the bike,it was way more noticible then the other sportster i was riding with that didnt have the tail/turn/brake light combined..and i thought,hmmm..im goin to redo mine, im goin to order the red lenses for mine and then ill rewire it...ill def post pics of b4 and after once i get this done..hopefully within the next cpl weeks.
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

**I pressed the wrong button on the keyboard but can't seem to delete the post.....**
 

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Originally Posted by craig s.

i agree 100%..honda and other metric bikes shouldve made the rear like the front,with multiple taillights/brake lights ....
If you look at most state traffic laws, it says in black and white that all vehicles are limited to 2 running lights (marker lights) in the rear. Enforcement may be even more lax today since most new cars have a third marker light usually mounted on the rear windshield.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Butt Connector

OK, I get it, actually...the tail light laws call for a third brake/taillight to be mounted in the middle of the car and a certain number of inches off the ground for the express purpose of SEEING THE CAR THAT IS STOPPING in front of the car in front of you. That's what these illegal lights are all about - VISIBILITY. I'm sure that the taxpayers of Maryland will not care about these lights when they realize that they are not paying the Shock-Trauma bill when I don't get hit by some ditsy teenager that can't get off the cellphone. So, when I am stopped (and I probably will be) I'll play dumb, point out the visibility, and consent to changing them. Frankly I'm lit up like a good ole boy's 18 wheeler and like it that way as I do a 1 hour round trip commute at least 5 days a week with most rides at night, rain or shine.

As for the butt connectors, well that was not my call and there are probably better connectors, but it's what I had and they wrap well with tape.
 

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Just an update, it's been 14 days and the wiring conversion has no issues. Has anyone else tried this? I have kept the amber plastic on these turn signals/now running lights and I think I like the visibility better.
I did it almost the same way, except instead of swapping the bulb sockets, I bought a set of used front turn signals which already have the dual-element bulbs.

Also, I used a "Hoppy" trailer taillight converter used to connect a four-wire trailer to a five-wire car. The motorcycle is the equivalent of a five-wire system with a 1) right turn signal 2) left turn signal 3) running light 4) brake light 5) ground.
The light bar only has a 1) right turn signal 2) left turn signal 3) running light 4) ground.
With the converter, the turn signals on the rear light bar also act as brake lights.

It was a very easy set up and has been working flawlessly for years.
The only thing is that I had to replace the stock flasher with an electronic one to control the flash rate from flashing too fast............

Phil

This is what the tail lights look like, I made the red lenses by modifying the lenses from trailer marker lights to fit my light bar:





And on the front, I have clear lenses on the turn signals for the retro look:

 
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