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I have this schumacher 10 amp speed charger that I used for my boats motor. It's always worked fine. I started using on my cycles battery and it's worked fine on it. It's 10 amp and adjusts down to a 2 amp maintainer as needed. Well I went to charge my boats battery and it doesn't work. It doesn't even recognize the charger being hooked up. I put it back on the cycle and it works fine. I can't figure out why it won't work on my boats battery now. Any ideas?
 

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some of these smart chargers wont work if they think its a dud battery (IE pretty flat)

On mine if I jump it to a good battery and hook up the charger it works, then after 10 min charging unhook the leads and it keeps charging..... Might not be your issue but a possibility
 

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Do NOT use a 10A capable charger on a moto battery - you could cook it :(
You should get a smaller, simple battery maintainer - 1A or so.
 

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Test it on a known good battery like your car. If it sees the car battery, then your boat battery is to dead for the charger to see and recognize.
 

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Forums like this are great resources for info but there's a lot of room for pure speculation. A wild guess would be that an automotive charger's sensing circuitry isn't really made for a small capacity battery like a motorcycle battery. It could very well be seeing a load or charge curve it isn't made to operate with. I'm gonna have to agree with Grumpyoldman though. I've seen a battery or two ruined by this scenario. Most scooter batteries are good for around one amp charge current, however I have seen a few which are labeled they can handle more for a specified time period. I've never seen a Yuasa battery labeled like that but a few aftermarket ones. Check it and see. If not labeled you'd best stick with only one amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Forums like this are great resources for info but there's a lot of room for pure speculation. A wild guess would be that an automotive charger's sensing circuitry isn't really made for a small capacity battery like a motorcycle battery. It could very well be seeing a load or charge curve it isn't made to operate with. I'm gonna have to agree with Grumpyoldman though. I've seen a battery or two ruined by this scenario. Most scooter batteries are good for around one amp charge current, however I have seen a few which are labeled they can handle more for a specified time period. I've never seen a Yuasa battery labeled like that but a few aftermarket ones. Check it and see. If not labeled you'd best stick with only one amp.
You got it backwards. It works fine on the cycles battery but not on the boats. I think it is the boats battery because I just got a new 1.5 amp battery maintainer in the mail today for my cycle and it won't work on the boats battery either.
 

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I have this schumacher 10 amp speed charger that I used for my boats motor. It's always worked fine. I started using on my cycles battery and it's worked fine on it. It's 10 amp and adjusts down to a 2 amp maintainer as needed. Well I went to charge my boats battery and it doesn't work. It doesn't even recognize the charger being hooked up. I put it back on the cycle and it works fine. I can't figure out why it won't work on my boats battery now. Any ideas?
Sounds to me like your boat's battery is dead due to bad or shorted cell plates. Time for a new battery.
 

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If your Batt is below 2vdc you might be out of luck. You can try a total discharge recovery charge of 2amps for 20hrs to see if it comes back.
 

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You got it backwards. It works fine on the cycles battery but not on the boats. I think it is the boats battery because I just got a new 1.5 amp battery maintainer in the mail today for my cycle and it won't work on the boats battery either.
It should.
 

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It works fine on the cycles battery but not on the boats. I think it is the boats battery because I just got a new 1.5 amp battery maintainer in the mail today for my cycle and it won't work on the boats battery either.
Well then that's an odd coincidence indeed. The original charger use to work on the boat's battery, but after using it on the cycle's battery, the charger wouldn't work on the boat's battery as before. In the meanwhile the boat's battery went dead? (Neither chargers work on the boat's battery.) When the last time you used the original charger on the boat's battery?
 

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If your boat has a lead acid refillable battery it is probably made up of six 2 volt cells..you can test it with a multimeter set to dc volts.. remove all the fill caps and connect the black meter lead to the negative pole of the battery, stick the red meter lead in the nearest fill hole to the negative pole until it connects to the plate inside.. you should read about 2 volts (2.1 volts on a fully charged battery) if you do move the probe to the next hole and you should read 4 volts.. to double check connect the red meter lead to the positive pole of the battery and work backwards.. If you understand what I am trying to explain you can locate any faulty cells using this method..It won't repair your battery but it will tell you to buy a new one..

In the days of crank start cars we used to repair batteries by emptying them and refilling them with a two and a half percent mixture of sulphuric acid and water because we couldn't buy new batteries..Don't do this.. you can afford a new battery.

John.
 

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You got it backwards. It works fine on the cycles battery but not on the boats. I think it is the boats battery because I just got a new 1.5 amp battery maintainer in the mail today for my cycle and it won't work on the boats battery either.
Here we go again on the forum misunderstanding phenomena. Take it easy on a motorcycle battery. Charging one above one amp could lead to deterioration of the battery. If you want to try just monitor the battery during charge for excessive heat and boiling of the acid. A little of both is to be expected but very little. Too much will cook it.
 

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Here we go again on the forum misunderstanding phenomena. Take it easy on a motorcycle battery. Charging one above one amp could lead to deterioration of the battery. If you want to try just monitor the battery during charge for excessive heat and boiling of the acid. A little of both is to be expected but very little. Too much will cook it.
But doesn't a smart charger automatically lower the amperage once the battery is close to being fully charged to maintain thus eliminating excessive heat and overcharging?
 

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But doesn't a smart charger automatically lower the amperage once the battery is close to being fully charged to maintain thus eliminating excessive heat and overcharging?
They're supposed to. I made a living for thirty years repairing electronic circuits. Specific stuff, mailing machinery. They kept me pretty busy because they were always breaking down. I suppose if it's been working alright it wouldn't hurt but I can't help but cringe when I hear "10 amp charger" and "Motorcycle Battery" spoken in the same sentence.

Whenever I have some consumer product break down and it has a "Wall Wart"(Small power supply with plug/DC transformer built-in together, I look at the output before I discard it. If it's 12-15 VDC and 200-500mA output I keep it and install some alligator clips. It'll charge a scooter battery fine but you wouldn't really want to leave it on for more that 24 hours. Mind the polarity.
 
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