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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There's more info in my intro thread, but the short version is I got a 1986 VT1100 for free. It has a crack by the oil filter, but I know people who can Tig weld, so I think I can get it fixed.. but the PO tried fixing it with some kind of JB Weld product.. :/

Any ideas for removing that crap? Is this something I need to yank the motor for? or do you all think I can just tip the bike over onto it's side and get it from there?



 

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You are going to need to pull and dis-assemble the motor to weld it, Correctly. For the JB stuff, scrape it chip it and grind it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You are going to need to pull and dis-assemble the motor to weld it, Correctly. For the JB stuff, scrape it chip it and grind it off.
figured as much, was hoping I could just tip the bike over and hit it that way..
 

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You are going to need to pull and dis-assemble the motor to weld it, Correctly. For the JB stuff, scrape it chip it and grind it off.
OK, I'll admit I have NO experience here, but it sure looks to me like you can get to it with a welder???

I do have experience with removing epoxy, and you are correct here for sure. I would pressure wash first, or at least find a way to get it squeaky clean.
I would take a very small chisel and small hammer, and tap tap tap see if you can chip off what you can. Proceed with dremel type tool and sanding drum or whatever other bits you have at your disposal. Cured epoxy should not soften with solvents, so that isn't an option.
 

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Yes you can get at it to weld it from the outside...... AND it might work, but if you don't seal the crack from both sides, it may expand due to heat exoansion and contraction, and just leak like the epoxy is. Besides the risk of fire from the oil and stuff inside the cases. heck where than leak is you might get away with an outside only weld Kinda depends on the crack. Get the epoxy off so you can determine extent of crack. If it is just on the filter flange you might get lucky, and not have to open the motor. That particular location is going to be a pain to weld from the inside anyway.
 

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Clean it off good with a dremel or end grinder with some type of bit thet will get it off, sanding, grinding what ever. Then find you a reputable welder, not just somebody that can weld! I can weld pretty dam good, but I would not be willing to try it. Once you find a good welder, ask his/her opinion on the weld, they will know better than anyone if it can be done. They will then make sure it is clean enough to weld before they ever consider welding! Then pay them whatever they want, it will be worth it! I know guys that will work cheap, and they wont work for $40/ hour so be prepared. After all the bike was FREE!
Good luck, keep us posted!
Coop
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I picked up the title today and got the story behind the crack... When the last guy bought it, it ran fine, no problems at all, but the registration was expired, so rather than ride it home, they tried putting it on a trailer..

It hit something and two guys argued it was something bad, the guy pushing the bike said, "naw, it's just hitting the center stand.." he got a running start and that's how the oil filter impacted the trailer, cracking the case..

The guy I have lined up who might be my welder, has been welding steel roll cages for more than a decade, I have to double check he knows what the hell he's doing with aluminum before he touches it though..

The previous owners are convinced I can just drain all flammables and lay the bike on it's side and go to work..

I'll keep you all updated as I make more progress, but it may be slow cause I'm poor :p
 

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You'd be better off dealing with a Machine shop... Don't just go to anyone "that can tig weld" because you may end up doing more harm than good.


A machine chop can properly open up the wound to clean it, then build the aluminum layers back into it to make it thick enough, and if its in a crucial valley for anything, machine it back out to correct specs internally


Just welding it externally is setting you up for big trouble.
 

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It can be heli arc, but a couple of thinks to remember, aluminium needs to be clean to weld, your going to generate some heat so things are going to get real hot, so any seals, gaskets in that area are going to fry, also can't tell by pic but if the crack extened to where the filter mounts that area will have to be flat again so filter will seal. Oh and if worried about the crack expanding or growing , you can drill a small hole thru end of crack before welding that will stop the crack from growing. I would find a welder that specialices in alumium welding, there is more to it than just welding it has to be preped right.
 

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Please research this topic on google before attempting anything.

Draining all fluids and welding while it's still in the frame will NOT work. Aluminum is a very dirty metel. It has a lot of impurites in it and must be very clean to get a non-failing weld. It is critical that the part the motor is removed and thourghly cleaned inside and out prior to welding. It's also critical that the welding be done correctly, alluminum is known for heat spreading though it very fast as well as maintaing heat for longer than say mild steel or stainless. I have welded a lot of different materials and while alluminum is not difficult to weld if you don't know what your doing and don't prep correctly the weld will fail. Even if you get all the oil drained there will still be a film of oil on the inside of the part that will ruin your weld. I know it's not the easy way but it needs completely dissasembled before weld.
 

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aluminum needs to be clean enough to eat off before attempting to weld it.I can TIG weld Steel all day but my Tig Welder wont do AL as it is a Inverter unit and wont do High Frequency.
 

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Is it currently leaking or seeping oil? If it is not, why go through all the hassle? I'm not certain but I do believe the crankcase is not a high pressure environment......if it works as is, leave it as is.

If not....there are epoxy resins out there for this type of application. The site I post here is for a product that is very expensive...but there are others along this line for repairing engine cases and the like. This might be a good start for some diy epoxy suited for this fix.

Adhesives and Epoxies by Alfa International Corporation
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Is it currently leaking or seeping oil? If it is not, why go through all the hassle? I'm not certain but I do believe the crankcase is not a high pressure environment......if it works as is, leave it as is.

If not....there are epoxy resins out there for this type of application. The site I post here is for a product that is very expensive...but there are others along this line for repairing engine cases and the like. This might be a good start for some diy epoxy suited for this fix.

Adhesives and Epoxies by Alfa International Corporation
Sorry Everyone.. went to Vegas for the weekend..

The case holds oil until it heats up, then it expands and dumps itself right in front of the rear wheel... at least that's what the PO told me.. He said if I put more oil in, and charge the battery, it should fire right up, but he wouldn't ride it until it holds oil..
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
LOL! just messing with ya heh.
haha, yeah, well I went to play ice hockey with my brother and some friends.. my name has been on the roster for like 4 years, but i'm always out of the country when they play so this was the first tournament I got to play with em..
 
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