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Well, I had to re-jet the carbs because a fatal flaw in using an Edlbrock pro flo on a motorcycle happened, the wire bail that holds the screen and foam filter media broke
287301
 

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2007 VT750DC Spirit “chopper”
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Rode for 3 hours, logged 134 miles and still haven’t hit reserve on another tank of gravity fed fuel and happy that it’s looking like this cheap guys experiment will work out.
 

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Rode my son`s 1300 yesterday to blow the dirt & cobwebs off it ;(
Mine is on the lift to see IF I can find the "Fuse Blower" ...
He had done let it sit so long the battery had to be charged, so I`m riding it to keep it chared...
He works on the road 5 days/home 2...

Keep safe,
Dennis
 

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Any specific reason you chose those over the OEM NGK or Denso? How much were they? Let us know how it runs.
When I got out of high school my clunker Mazda gave up the ghost, so I bought a new VW Fox, so eventually time came for a tuneup, went to NAPA asked for the usual cap rotor wires plugs, clerk tells me the price😲 WTWF, it was way more than expected I asked why, he looked it up, OEM plugs were around $10 EACH " just give me non OEM "
Get home start wrenching, pull the plugs and TADA!
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I'd never seen a plug like it before, eh whatever just some weird German over engineered part, put in the cheepy plugs went for a test drive, WAY down on power put the old goofy plugs back in ran like it should, so went back and reluctantly bought the OEMs.
So with nothing better to do the other night I did the cross reff for the Ace checked scamazon and they were the same price as the store I know that carries them, not being in a hurry and not wanting to drive there just for the plugs the answers obvious.
They're $6.50 each and having a calibrated seat of the pants I want to satisfy my curiosity, my cars performance change (for the worse) was very noticeable going from the predecessor of the E3 to a standard plug.
I'm very skeptical when it comes to "snake oil" products that claim HUGE increases in performance, so I want to see if an engine that was designed to run standard plugs has any noticeable gains using "goofy" plugs;) I'm sure there's some gains that only sensitive testing equipment can find because most of us know that marketing exaggerates those findings.
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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Yes, do a test and report how they work out.
A few years ago Pulstar spark pugs were a sponsor here and one of the guys tested them. They were very expensive and had a capactor in them for extra sparks.
Seems like it didn't have remarkable results.
Was that you"Captain D" ?

I wonder if they are still running in the bike.
 

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Would definitely like to know how it runs, no butt dyno comparison required for me anyway because if they truly improved emissions and power on any measurable level then I believe every OEM in the world would have switched to them by now. Good marketing has kept them alive, but I prefer a plug that I can read easily with the strap and gap reliably so good old single strap plugs it is for me.
 

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Yes, do a test and report how they work out.
A few years ago Pulstar spark pugs were a sponsor here and one of the guys tested them. They were very expensive and had a capactor in them for extra sparks.
Seems like it didn't have remarkable results.
Was that you"Captain D" ?

I wonder if they are still running i
If I remember right that was Pastor Dave.
 

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Swapping in a set of E3 plugs View attachment 287369
Don't want to bust your bubble, however, these "gimmicks" have been around long as I can remember. Have a set of Auburn TC3 spark plugs my dad had in the garage since at least the 60's. Have half a dozen or so like this still in the box.

Auburn TC3

Edit: I've learned to set the gap closer to the minimum. Gap is only going to get wider with mileage, doesn't make sense to start out at the max. The minimum gap also made my Tourer start easier and run better.

Also, I believe the reason these things seem to work is you have replaced an old, maybe worn, maybe half fouled plug with a new one. Chances are any new plug might seem to run better. I do believe the iridium are more reliable and longer lasting. Another exception was the original Champion copper-core plugs, People were putting those in Hondas (cars) and losing 2 mpg... Not sure why or how,, but had multiple customers complain and going back to NGK or Denso restored their normal mpg.

P.S. don't trust the cross references. look each one up in the manufacturers catalog. Was looking for plugs for my Mazda years ago, Parts store I worked at had Champion, AC, Autolite and Bosch plugs, tried crossing the oem plug, then looked up the plug in each brand, cross-refd each to the other 3 and came up with 17 different plugs from 4 brands and the original. I quit at that point but I suspect had I re-crossed the cross-refd ones it may have been more.
dang it, I'm babbling again,,,
 

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Don't want to bust your bubble, however, these "gimmicks" have been around long as I can remember. Have a set of Auburn TC3 spark plugs my dad had in the garage since at least the 60's. Have half a dozen or so like this still in the box.

Auburn TC3

Edit: I've learned to set the gap closer to the minimum. Gap is only going to get wider with mileage, doesn't make sense to start out at the max. The minimum gap also made my Tourer start easier and run better.

Also, I believe the reason these things seem to work is you have replaced an old, maybe worn, maybe half fouled plug with a new one. Chances are any new plug might seem to run better. I do believe the iridium are more reliable and longer lasting. Another exception was the original Champion copper-core plugs, People were putting those in Hondas (cars) and losing 2 mpg... Not sure why or how,, but had multiple customers complain and going back to NGK or Denso restored their normal mpg.

P.S. don't trust the cross references. look each one up in the manufacturers catalog. Was looking for plugs for my Mazda years ago, Parts store I worked at had Champion, AC, Autolite and Bosch plugs, tried crossing the oem plug, then looked up the plug in each brand, cross-refd each to the other 3 and came up with 17 different plugs from 4 brands and the original. I quit at that point but I suspect had I re-crossed the cross-refd ones it may have been more.
dang it, I'm babbling again,,,
NGK also makes a strapless plug that arcs to the outer rim which I believe is called a surface discharge plug and mostly used in snowmobiles. Denso makes a dual strap platinum plug that Toyota used in a bunch of stuff, was surprised the first time I pulled those out of an engine.
 

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2004 Shadow Aero (VT750)
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The "funk" seems to be clearing. Went for a ride Sunday (2020 The Cedar Dunes Ride). Went for another ride again after supper today.

Sometime over the past few days (my days are running together) I wired up a switch for my heated vest. (I say "I" but with that one I had some help from my boyfriend. I haven't done much with wiring and switches.) All I had before was a wire coming out of the vest with an SAE connector on the end, and there was an art to plugging in on the fly. Pretty great to be able to just flick a switch for a bit of warmth. Hopefully I won't need it much again until the fall.

Today I pulled off the passenger backrest to put on the Givi topbox that came in last week. Unfortunately the holes in the luggage rack don't line up with the bracket on the bike. When the backrest was on, the luggage rack bracket was sandwiched between the backrest bracket and the bracket on the bike, so even though the bolts only went through the top set of holes on the luggage rack there was enough pressure to hold it in place and prevent it from pivoting. I tried to sandwich the bottom of the bracket between a teflon spacer/washer and the bracket on the bike, but after I hit a few good bumps the whole thing started going south.

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So tomorrow's project after work is to drill a couple of holes. I looked into replacing either the luggage rack or the brackets but for the price of them I'm happy just drilling the holes.

I'm really looking forward to the top box. It will be nice to throw my rain gear and heated vest in there and also to not be constantly strapping stuff sacks and backpacks to my bike every time I want to carry something. The below picture was taken on tonight's ride, before we hit the rough roads that knocked everything loose.

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I picked up a cheap set of well loved saddle bags last year and finally ordered some standoff brackets - they should be here in the next couple of weeks. I think the bags are a little big and I'll have to relocate the signal lights. I found someone on one of our local bike groups selling a smaller set for really reasonable and they may be small enough to sneak in without having to move things around. I'm waiting on the measurements.

Finally, I have a brake light flasher to install, but I'm waiting on an LED bulb for my brake light first. It might work with the incandescent, but since I'm taking the seat off to install it I want to know it's going to work the first time.

After all of that I should be done throwing money at the bike other than routine stuff. I feel like I've said that before, but I'm pretty well set up now. I can't think of anything else I really need. Maybe a louder horn.
 
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