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My best suggestion is to get to know your bike and listen to it as there is no magical or specific shift points. After a while of riding of various road conditions you'll know when you should be shifting up or down by the sound of the engine rpms and response.
If you look closer, the shift points are on there, of course, I don't see doing100 mph when you are shifting into 4th being a possibility.Someone should perhaps mention to you that the gauge you have in your picture is a speedometer, not a tachometer. You are reading miles per hour, not revolutions per minute.Have you been getting a lot of tickets lately?:mrgreen:
From the op's first thread, his bike is a 1994 Honda Shadow Spirit 1100The shift mark is not the same as redline on a tachometer. You will be surprised how fast that bike will rev.
And I don't even know what bike you're using.
What bike are you using?
you probably can, do you have to, no. With changing my gearing I can but it reflects by seriously lowering my mpg.So according to the gauge I'm supposed to shift 3 at 65. Am I really supposed to run 2nd gear all the way up to 65.
Your speedometer markings are the same as my 96 Shadow VT1100C's. I've never really noticed them before till you pointed this out, since I shift by ear and feel of the engine. After studying this more, those middle markings appear to be the max speed and rpm's capable in that gear before the rev. limiter kicks in at the hash mark. I would cut those values in half as a starting shift point and adjust up or down depending upon load, road, wind and traffic.
Thank you.Your speedometer markings are the same as my 96 Shadow VT1100C's. I've never really noticed them before till you pointed this out, since I shift by ear and feel of the engine. After studying this more, those middle markings appear to be the max speed and rpm's capable in that gear before the rev. limiter kicks in at the hash mark. I would cut those values in half as a starting shift point and adjust up or down depending upon load, road, wind and traffic.