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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ref: Shadow fuses - Imgur

[This is a 2006 Spirit 1100 that I picked up for a song from a friend who didn't maintain it and was moving away. A large motivating factor for me was to learn to do more of my own maintenance, and the shadow is a lot simpler, older, and more in need of work than my triumph]

So, there are two things going on here: the root cause, and the fuse problem.

First, the root cause: Somewhere in the past, someone mis-routed the front left indicator/running lamp wire. Every time the handlebars hit the stop, they'd mash the wire a little more, until eventually it went to hell.

Second, the fuse problem: The very first time I rode this bike in the rain, it shorted out. Then, rather than the fuse blowing, it melted. There are a couple places on the wire insulation where I see evidence of overheating, which is presumably also a hazard waiting to happen.

I have the Haynes Manual, but it's not entirely clear on what I'd do now. My immediate plan is to cut out the bad bit of wire, solder fresh stuff in, and route it properly. Then snip the wires from the back of the fuse box and put in an inline fuse. [fun additional fact, only the left handgrip warmer is working, I'm hoping I find a solution to that problem once I get in there too]

So, I guess a few questions:

  1. How do I remove the plates listed as parts #10 and #11 on this page? Are they mostly cosmetic rather than load-bearing? How else would I route wires around and behind it? Honda Motorcycle Parts 2006 VT1100C AC FRAME Diagram
  2. According to the schematic I see, the fuse box is part of the harness itself. Is replacing the entire harness a total nightmare? Obviously the concern is melted wire insulation that I can't see and don't know about, just waiting to short out. But I think the inline fuse should be a reasonable stop-gap
  3. What causes that to happen to a fuse? Was it just a bad fuse?
Cheers!
Gary
 

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Cosmetic = #s 10&11 appear to be the plastic covers which the screw holds together???
Mine has a clip insteadda a screw...

You should be able to repair as described and be fine...
Make sure you route the wires away from abrasive stuff and pinch points...

Welcome to the madhouse,
Dennis
 

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A worn or loose spade that the fuse slides into will cause heat build up and melting of the plastic surrounding it.
Check the supply for your heated grips, In my opinion the should be powered through a relay with fused power from the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Today I did what I proposed; snipped the wires off the back of the fusebox and put an inline fuse in, and snipped the bad wire out from the indicator and replaced with decent stuff.

Last two pictures are added to the album: Shadow fuses - Imgur

Thanks!
Gary
 

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I guess you've already removed the part listed as #10, it's the neck cover, a screw at the top of that cover in front of the top of the gas tank is removed 1st, then the neck covers have hard brittle locking tabs that have to be gently pried open to release the covers at the front of the bike. Then gently pull the neck covers off.
 

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Glad you got it fixed...

Now I gotta take care of an oil leak on mine...
Coming from the "valve cover" (?) Running onto the exhaust flange and on down, it`s got the top of my starter wet....
 

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that inline fuse is gonna bug you over time.
i say: now that its running again, start looking for a comparable replacement fuzebox, and swap it out.
get all of your fuzes centralized again.
itl be secsy
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The fuse box comes as part of the wiring harness. Partzilla has it for 60 bucks, if I wanted to do the right thing, I'd replace that. One day, probably, but for now this'll do.
 
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