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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone!
Thanks in advance for any assistance provided. I have scoured the forums and read just about every LED conversion post I could find, but I'm still stuck in a rut...or the garage, rather =)

The subject: 1997 vt1100c

The task: Installation of sequential LED turn signals (exact model here)

The attempt: I of course ran into hyperflash, which I knew would be an issue.
  • Bought load resistors and installed to all 4; no lights/flash
  • Bought new LED-supporting flashing module and tried WITH resistors; got lights, but unfortunately, the 'flashing' interrupts the power to the lights

At this phase, I'm debating just re-wiring the turn signals. Basically, the "up and down" voltage the flasher provides causes the animation in the sequential turn signal to stutter. I can't find a solution.

At this point, it's less about the style or just replacing with something more simplistic - I'm a problem solver at heart, and I need to get to the bottom of this!

Here are some GIFs I've created to demonstrate the issue I'm experiencing:

STEADY POWER USING THE TAIL LIGHT LEAD (this is what it's supposed to look like)
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WHAT IS HAPPENING (This is with resistors AND new flash module that supports LED. I tried with stock as well)
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Any help is appreciated. I bought this bike from a co-worker, and it was in rough shape....slowly returning her to glory!
 

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I believe those lights require you to bypass the flasher unit completely as they have their own blinking sequence. should just be jumper the power wire to the turn signal switch feed wire, bypassing the flasher. your dash indicator will no longer blink,,,
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. I tried doing this several times (as a test) but could not get it to work. In several tests, I actually blew the fuse.

There are 3 wires feeding the flasher; I tried (just about) every combination I could with my test jumper. I am trying to hold off snipping it until I can confirm this will work. Any other ideas or recommendations?
 

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Shadow VT700c 1986, ST1300 08
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Those units connect directly without the relay. As @oldguy says they have the internal circuit that if you use the replay results in only working 1 second at time.
the 3 wires would be ground, 12V (+ from battery) and the 3rd the wire to the switch.
This shows how the wires are connected.
Keep in mind that these have running lights also
295972
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have the same understanding. My problem is that I cannot find a way to bypass the relay.

The other challenge I have is based on the switch location (Left or Right) I believe the current is being passed to the flasher relay, which lights the specific side. So if I were able to jump the relay connector (Which is the standard 3 pin Honda connector) how would the current flow to the correct side?
 

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The relay works for both sides and there is no separation.
The circuit will be passing from the +12 to the switch (left/right) then each R/L goes to the respective bulbs, from the bulbs to the relay as 1 common wire then grounded from the relay.

as drawn by a toddler :)
295984
 

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Edit: turn signal relay should have only 3 wires... Ignore the ground wire at the relay and hook the remaining two together. A short piece of wire with two terminals and tape it up.

Edit: power comes from the fuse box through the relay then to the turn signal switch where it's either off or powering the left or right side for turn signals. Note: the front run lights also go through the turn signal switch in a separate section. the TS switch turns off the run light for the blinking side for better contrast. The brake lights on a bike are not normally connected with the turn signals. Is that a separate part of the new lights where you would just need to splice in to the rear brake light wire? Also, you may need to wire the front and rear differently as running lights on the rear need to be red most places. And the front won't need the brakelights.

Too early to be thinking this hard. see what happens when you apply power to the brake light wire, does it light a different section of the light? May work ok if it does, If it lights the same leds as the turn, could be a problem with it crossing to both sides on turn. try it. May just have to add a couple diodes to the inputs.

In a simple dc circuit, diodes act as one-way check valves for the current flow... Most any diode will work, long as it's rated for 12v or more and approx 1 amp or more. Maybe less amps as the LED circuits are not going to draw as much as the old incandescent bulbs
 

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And you do need to unplug the relay,... just hook the white-green and gray wires together. the solid green wire is ground that you ignore
A short jumper in the harness plug and tape it up good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Man, this was super helpful. I appreciate the time to help me understand how this flows. Countless youtube videos couldn't do in HOURS of research what you did in the time you spent. I really appreciate the help and I'm going to get back to it with this printed and in my hand this evening. Thanks again!
 

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I was a senior field engineer for Sperry Univac in a past life, working on mainframe computer systems and peripherals, Also spent 20+ years on a tech support desk, 1st for the airline reservations systems, then for the phone co. Had to get the necessary info across quickly... And I'm here to tell you, ALL those tech support stories are true.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@oldguy - You solved it! I tested with a small piece of wire. I had previously tried, but was crossing to ground from grey/white and it was shorting out. I'm in the process of cleaning it up!!!! SO EXCITED!

I can't thank you enough. This was a fun little project bike that a friend of mine helped me paint, and this added detail makes it look so cool. Thanks again and if you're ever rolling through Columbus, OH stop by for a brat and a beer =)
 

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NP, I should visit my cousin who lives NW of there I believe,,, Not sure when though,
 
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