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1996 VT1100C 3 Yellow Wire Repair

2.2K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  Husoi  
#1 ·
During this past Spring, during the initial start-up of this bike, the battery was completely dead; necessitating a jump start from a lawn tractor's battery. While the engine was being revved in place to charge up the motorcycle battery, smoke started rising up from the battery compartment area until the bike engine suddenly died. Thereafter, no instrument lights on the speedometer were illuminated.

Fast forward to one week ago. I observed a melted/burned white plastic connector where the alternator stator's three yellow wires connect to the motorcycle wiring harnesss. In addition, the 30 amp main fuse (located immediately above the battery) was blown.

To repair the three yellow wires, I cut away the remains of the white plastic connector plug to expose the brass spade-type wire terminations. Any burned plastic on the brass wire terminations was scraped off with a razor blade and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner. Care was exercised to not mix up the wire connections on the AC voltage just in case...

A section of heat-shrink tubing was placed over each of the three yellow wires. The spade terminals were fluxed, connected and soldered together then the tubing was shrunk over each respective. I stuffed the newly repaired connectors into the clip which formerly secured the white plastic plug and zip-tied it in place.

PS This motorcycle had previously sustained a failed alternator. The local Honda dealer installed an aftermarket stator to restore alternator output.
 
#2 ·
The 3 yellow wires connectors are a weak spot, so many have done similar splicing for a solid connection.
The 3 phases don't have any particular order, however.

It would be good to do this test also.

Put your meter across the battery and see if at rest it is at least 12.5 volts. May need a charge first.
Then watch it while you crank it for 5-10 seconds and it should be above 9.6 to 10 volts minimum.
Then while running see if it can stay up to 13.5 to 14.5 volts as you rev it above 3000 RPM.
That will tell the basic health of the battery and charging system.
 
#3 · (Edited)
That's good advice. A brand new Magna Power battery is now installed. It was on a battery charger for a couple days before installing it in the motorcycle.

I still need to confirm the charging system is functioning by connecting a voltmeter to the battery and revving up the engine to see correct charging voltage.

I'm pretty sure I did a bad thing by using this water soluble paste flux.
Link Worse still is I didn't rinse it off before applying the heat-shrink tubing. Acid-based flux is for non-electrical soldering because it will corrode the conductors.
 
#4 ·
Brad - P/O the problem with the original plug was the crimp used to mate the wires to each spade connector. Time and moisture cause corrosion that increase electrical resistance between each wire and its spade connector. This causes heat and eventually the fried connector. I would cut-off the spade connections completely, flux and solder the wires together as you did before. You can clean residual flux from the new solder joint with alcohol or acetone. Once clean and dry, heat-shrink the solder joints as you did before. Makes no difference how you hook them up as they all feed the input of of the Regulator/Rectifier (R/R). No phase relationship to maintain. That should assure your repair will remain trouble-free. Kevin 🌵

PS: If you're still not getting proper voltage at the battery after doing this, check the red starter relay plug. It feeds power to the rest of the bike from the R/R and is also sometimes partially melted (mine was). Replacement plug and pins are available on e-Bay for <$10. STARTER SOLENOID RELAY CONNECTOR PLUG TERMINALS HONDA Shadow VT800 VT1100 752423299294 | eBay

 
#6 ·
Image


Is the connector that I circled in green the one that we're talking about?

It looks like it's got three small gauge wires on each end of the clip-together connector.

Forgive my crude sloppy labeling of the orientation of the bike -- fuel tank at the top of the picture,
rear of the bike at the bottom of this photo.
 
#7 ·
The connector plug's location on my 1996 VT1100C is down on the left side of motorcycle; next to the transmission. The alternator stator is located on the left side of engine.

You will see a jacketed set of three electrical leads (from the stator) exiting atop the engine's left-hand case. Follow the jacketed leads to where they plug into the motorcycle's wiring harness.

On my bike, the connector plug is white-colored.


Is the connector that I circled in green the one that we're talking about?
 
#8 ·
I think that is the 3 yellow wire connector on your model.
If 3 yellows go in and 3 yellows go out the other side to the regulator.
 
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#10 ·
Always a good idea to check it.
You want a good strong charging system.
Not just Honda has the same problem with that connection.
 
#11 ·
Separate the connector and inspect the wire terminations for evidence of corrosion. Corrosion results in high electrical resistance. High electrical resistance at wire termination/connections generate heat during electrical current flow. Overheated wire terminations will melt the connector plug.
 
#12 ·
If you startup the bike and let it run for a minute or so, feel the connector. My original connector looked OK, but started getting too hot to touch.
I replaced it with a Honda replacement connector kit not long after purchasing her (3 years ago). Now if I start and run her, the connector remains cool... problem solved!
Has been 2-1/2 years now and I re-check when I change the engine oil. To-date the connector remains cool to the touch.
 
#13 ·