I've heard of people doing it, but you've got a lot of fender to clear on the Sabre. I'm not sure you could get it high enough off the ground to remove the rear tire and still have the bike be stable.

 

It won't be very stable. You also will need a very short jack. You might be able to jack it up and then stack wood blocks under each side to hold it. Whatever you come up with be very careful. Having a bike fall over on you really blows. Don't ask me how I know this.

 

I've heard of people doing it, but you've got a lot of fender to clear on the Sabre.

Well I don't have a Sabre, but my Aero I think has even lower fenders, plus mud flaps. I think I could jack the bike up high enough, though.

 

Jack

That's a good looking paint job. I'd hate to see it get messed up using the wrong jack.

 

My bike jack consists of a floor jack and blocks...
I can change both tires with this set up...
I have even removed the rear wheel of a VTX this way...
Slow and careful...
I shore under the middle of the bike not the swingarm...

 

Bike jack

I just built one with 5 - 2 foot long 2x4's screwed together and a pipe stuck in a one inch hole drilled into one end, on the 3 1/2 inch side. Still sitting up on the stand while I work on the rear wheel.

 

That looks like it's going to have to come up pretty high to get the wheel to clear that fender. I'd look into pulling the fender off if possible. Be careful and make sure the bike is solidly blocked up and cannot tip.

 

Unbolt the top of the shocks when you jack it up, doing this will let the wheel drop further down and enough to clear the fender, if you use the cross tube by the swing arm to jack on be careful of the R/R.

 

If you have an overhead beam of some sort maybe on the patio or just outside the house. I would link up to tie downs from there to your handle bars. Get a 2x4 or some wood to put over the jack as to not damage the bike. Then jack slowly and keep tightening the tie downs as you go. Will pick the bike up no problem and shouldn't move around to much.

You could also try and find a cheap Bike jack online for about $50 and save you the headache. :wink:

 

Just a thought,,,if you have a garage find a truss and put 2 eye boles in it and use tie down straps to secure the bike while you jack it up.

 

Unbolt the top of the shocks when you jack it up

+1

If you have an overhead beam of some sort maybe on the patio or just outside the house. I would link up to tie downs from there to your handle bars.

Handlebar? No way. Passenger footpegs are a MUCH better choice for stability. I do them AND the front bridge -- tighten the ratchet tiedowns as I raise the bike...

Just a thought,,,if you have a garage find a truss and put 2 eye boles in it and use tie down straps to secure the bike while you jack it up.

...with 4 eyebolts in two trusses.

 

4 eye bolts IMHO is over kill but it can't hurt any thing.

 

4 eye bolts IMHO is over kill but it can't hurt any thing.

Two for the front and two for the back. Works better with 4 tiedowns. And stability. But, hey, if you want to make it swing like a hammock then go right ahead.

 

Actually 4 would be nice, you could raise it up to stool heigth and work on it :wink:

 

Be careful about hanging the total weight of the bike from a joist. I watched a guy try to pull and V8 engine once and snapped that joist. Spread the load over a couple of joists at the very least or put a temporary post under the joist to take the load.

 

Be careful about hanging the total weight of the bike from a joist. I watched a guy try to pull and V8 engine once and snapped that joist. Spread the load over a couple of joists at the very least or put a temporary post under the joist to take the load.

Yes, but the floor jack should be taking the bulk of the weight. The tiedowns hanging from the joist should be there to add stability and a measure of safety.

If you're actually going to lift the bike with the tiedowns then you should build the structure to handle the load -- and I wouldn't trust eyebolts screwed into a couple of 2x4s that are staked together with metal plates with my 600 lb bike.

 

Well, I was referring to the previous post about "using four eyebolts and raising it up to stool height". I think now he was just yankin' us. I have seen guys who believe their ceiling joists will hold up a battleship though.

 

Cheap Lift

You might want to try this. It works really well and it's CHEAP! :idea:

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/bikelift.htm

I've also seen it done where the pipe isn't screwed into the board, it just sits in the board. Once the bike is lifted up, slide the pipe through so that half the length is on one side of the board, half on the other... that stablizes the board and keeps it from falling in either direction.

 

Well, I was referring to the previous post about "using four eyebolts and raising it up to stool height". I think now he was just yankin' us.

No, that is pretty much what I do -- except I have the motorcycle lift doing the work. Like this:

I don't use a stool, though, but a milk crate -- you can see it (green) on the other side of the bike. I prefer to put the tiedowns onto the rear passenger pegs but I needed to work in that area when this photo was taken.

 

Ahhh, one of those milk crate guys......... :roll:

 

Ahhh, one of those milk crate guys.........
===================================
Nooo,,he's one of the*** 4 straps*** and milk crate guys :lol:

 

Ahhh, one of those milk crate guys.........
===================================
Nooo,,he's one of the*** 4 straps*** and milk crate guys :lol:

Actually, I have about a half dozen milk crates like the green one -- all without those "reinforcing bands" molded into the bottom. Picked them up at a garage sale somewhere, stapled together to make a shelf unit. They make GREAT stools for working on the bike. They don't fall over when you kick them away, either. And they make it easy to carry tools (and/or parts) around as you move from one spot to another. Not good for steps, though; they tend to sag in the middle if the weight gets too concentrated.