All is well Chief.

 

Partzilla often has some pretty educational video's and for some reason I come across them right after I see threads posted here on the same subject. I just didn't want to step on any toes making it look like I was pushing or advertising for a retail company.

They had one a little while back on the difference and needs to clean a carb vice rebuild. good stuff, and timely. We all know that with the weather warming up we'll soon be seeing threads from folks wondering why their bikes are running sluggish and thinking they need to strip and re-build their carbs.

 

Knowledge is power, and we all want more POWER!

 

I hadda regulator go bad once, I checked it...
Thanks @squidchief

Lets RIDE,
Dennis

Fish fry tomorrow > Poker Run Saturday > Y`all COME

 

A HELPFUL post? Things are going downhill here…FAST! Break out…the BAN HAMMER! 😄

I’ll probably use this to check mine. It was awfully suspicious how my fuel pump and relay just happened to choose the moments they did to die…

 

A HELPFUL post? Things are going downhill here…FAST! Break out…the BAN HAMMER! 😄

I'll assume I'm the cause of things going downhill.

Volts = PUSH.
AC = Diodes captures both waves. Think full wave-half wave.
VR = Anything under 14.7v and under is considered a good working voltage/regulator.

There are only 3 jobbers to the charging loop. Very easy to diagnose holding the the voltmeter on the battery to read each jobber;
1. A load test at the battery. Start it, volts should drop 11v [for argument sake] and recovers back to its static reading, says the battery can hold volts and recover. If it drops to 9v when starting, this says, click-click and cannot hold volts.
2. A stator test is at the battery leads, and shows the same volts as if sitting-not running, it means no AC output.
3. A VR is junk when you see voltage exceed 15+v and up.

Homme here at home does not swap leads back and forth, nor removes connectors off the jobbers. Cuts the time real fast knowing WATT to look for.

Signed,
NOLTT