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Not Charging? Broken Wire? HELP!

1.4K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  adlowe  
#1 ·
OK, this is my first bike and I am hoping to learn how it all goes together and works (and for clarity I do most of my own work on my car).

The bike: 1985 Honda Shadow VT700C w/ less than 11K miles. I bought it about a month ago for $1300 and as I am not yet licensed (only permit) I had a friend ride it 45 miles to my place. I started riding it shortly after that, just short trips around the neighborhood. The last ride before the issue was a nice 20+ mile ride down country highways.

I needed gas and stopped to fill up … at that point it wouldn’t start. Luckily I had a friend show up with a jump pack. It would start and keep idle on the jump pack, but would die almost immediately when the jump pack was disconnected. Thank fully the jump pack was small enough I could sit on it and ride it home the 4+ miles I would have had to push it.

I took the battery off and it looks new.

Tested the battery and the charge was very low, but the auto store said the load test was fine. So I charged it up at home. In the mean time I did some testing of the stator and rectifier.

Ohm check on the stator shows (200 setting on the multi-meter):
Wire 1 and Wire 2: .3-.6
Wire 1 and Wire 3: .4-.6
Wire 2 and Wire 3: .4-.6
ACV check on the stator at idle (200V setting on the multi-meter):
Wire 1 and Wire 2: 4.1
Wire 1 and Wire 3: 5.3
Wire 2 and Wire 3: 5.4
ACV check on the stator at REV (200V setting on the multi-meter):
Wire 1 and Wire 2: 7.0+
Wire 1 and Wire 3: 7.4+
Wire 2 and Wire 3: 7.0+

Rectifier Check diode test:
Red to Battery positive:
Wire 1 = 0
Wire 2 = 0
Wire 3 = 0
Black to Battery Positive:
Wire 1 = .656
Wire 2 = .695
Wire 3 = .687
Red to Battery Negative:
Wire 1 = .678
Wire 2 = .644
Wire 3 = .672
Back to Battery Negative:
Wire 1 = 0
Wire 2 = 0
Wire 3 = 0
Battery after a 2 hour charge: 12.33V , at idle 11.6 (falling), REV 11.58 (steady)

With the exception of the battery after charge, I believe everything looks OK … Sound right?
 
#5 · (Edited)
Battery .... REV 11.58 (steady)
Sounds like the stator's output is low. If the stator doesn't produce more that 12v, then there isn't surplus voltage to charge the battery, if lower, the battery will drain.


ACV check on the stator at REV (200V setting on the multi-meter):

Wire 1 and Wire 2: 7.0+
Wire 1 and Wire 3: 7.4+
Wire 2 and Wire 3: 7.0+
7 vac?

try doing a continuity test on each separate wire. Red lead to Wire 1, with Bk lead to frame (Ground), so on. Connector disconnected. [edit] shouldn't be continuity.
 
#6 ·
try doing a continuity test on each separate wire. Red lead to Wire 1, with Bk lead to frame (Ground), so on. Connector disconnected. [edit] shouldn't be continuity.
And if there is continuity on any of the three he needs to be riding with a spare (fully charged) battery if he plans on waiting for the hard water season to replace the stator.

It's not really that tough a task, though. Not even one day if all the parts are on hand before starting.
 
#11 ·
Yes, I disconnected the three wires going from the Stator to the Rec/Reg and tested each variation of wire combinations (yes the stator side of the wires). The multi-meter was set to the AC Volts section on the 200V setting (figured 20V setting would get over loaded).
No, I have not tried the continuity test yet, will try to get to that tonight.
Time isn't the issue for me as much as the cost is. I figured it would take a few hours to get it replaced. Looked pretty "easy" from the videos online and the tech manual.
I've been doing mostly short rides (less than 10 miles) but want to do longer ones, just can't with the current charging issue. But, heck, that's OK I’m still on a permit so have to watch the time and no interstates, so I’m not to down about having to keep rides short.
I'll be taking the riding course the second weekend in September, so should have my license after that, then the bug will be fully imbedded to get out and cruise.
 
#13 ·
Finally go around to doing a continuity test.

Separated wires from stator to Reg/Rec touched the positive to the stator wires and negative to the metal on the frame w/ meter set at lowest setting for ohms ... one wire says 0.3 the other two read 0.4.
I think that is likely acceptable?
The plan at this point is to keep the bike on a charger when not riding and do shorter rides, then this winter do a complete tune up and replace both the stator and Reg/Rec.. That way in the spring all should be good to go.
 
#15 ·
one wire says 0.3 the other two read 0.4.
I think that is likely acceptable?
No.

Stator is totally shorted. It should read OL or infinity.
EXACTLY! Toasted. Near as I can tell, best use of it now is as a doorstop.

What does your meter read on ohms with the probes not touching anything? And with the probes touched together?
Extremely relevant question. Too often it goes unasked because it hints at incompetence from the guy running the test. But, hey, if you don't know how to do it right then you need someone to tell you. Education is the cure for ignorance.

Correct answers, Rjovik, are zero (needle maxed left if it's analog) and one (needle maxed right). If that's what you got then you're readings on the stator are reliable. And confirm that it is toast.