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Things I am unclear about

1.6K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  txironhead  
#1 ·
I have been in a battle to find out why my bike seems to struggle at the higher end--like it's "floating out" (Old hydraulic lifter days). It seems to be starving for fuel and can't seem to get above 85mph. I took the carbs off already and cleaned them. I had to replace the rear air fuel screw(no rubber seal or spring).
How exactly do you soak a carb in pine sol--with bowl off? and rinsing it--getting all of the water out?

The main jets may be the culprit (original from what they look like). The book says 175 or 185. Dynojet says theirs is 160--of course there seems to be different placements of the clip so that may account. But what is it for sure?
There is talk of a "rebuild kit". The only kit I find is a gasket kit. I have to buy the jets individually, if that is the problem.
I have search for a Factory manual and it has been fruitless, so far. I find them all around the year of my bike, but not the year. So, I have to use a Clymers. It has an arrow pointing to the slow jet and says it's pressed in, but it has a screwdriver slot on it. It looks like I can buy those off of parts places. Is it removeable because I don't want to screw up the carbs.

Sorry about the long-winded post, but I can't find direct answers in the searches
It is a 1996 vt1100C2--- thanks for any clarification on some of this stuff.
 
#2 ·
Anytime you clean a carb it's good to disassemble it if for no other reason than to look at the components, the jets have a really small hole that's easily partially plugged or plugged as far as PineSol goes I've not used it but it seems a lot of others have with success and it seems depending on how bad the carb is dirty-ed a 50% solution diluted with water or 100% if it real dirty, any water that is left usually can be blown out or you could use rubbing alcohol, alcohol absorbs water.

You'll notice that there are 2 different main jet sizes, why in a water cooled engine is a mystery to me but Honda thought it was necessary for what ever reason, a lot of times it's just a lot easier to just replace them rather trying to clean them but that's up to you, at least with new ones you know there clean.

You don't want to compare a motorcycle rebuild kit to a auto rebuild kit, there really isn't all that much to a bike carb, usually it nothing more that the gaskets and a float needle, it would seem that carbs are working so they may just be dirty, if you blow out the jets make sure that you do so from the threaded end otherwise you will just blow the blocking what ever further into the jet. The different needel positions are for tuning but it's unusual to be more than one either way from stock, remember if you raise the clip the leaner it will run.

If you take the carbs off check the diaphragms that are on the slides for any cracks or cuts, any kind of leak will stop the slide from fully opening.
 
#4 ·
I had the carbs off already. I did not run wire through the jets.
So, there are two sizes for the main jets. Front cylinder bigger then the back, according to Fiche.
I put the diaphragms up to light and did not see any holes (expensive item).
On the Factory Pro carb tune site, they mentioned that if turning the mixture screws out still did not get rid of decel pop, then go to the next highest jet (43) in my case. Just where does one find the low side jet in differing sizes?
I guess with the possibility of the main jets being screwed up, I don't have a problem replacing them.
Factory Pro vs Dynojet---a toss up?
 
#5 ·
Forgot--fuel pump test passed according to the procedure. The performance doesn't change with tank level or playing with the choke when it seems to starve.