Have you checked it with a meter? Do you get 13.5 to 14.5 volts when revving up ? If your repair of the 3 yellow wires is failing you can butt splice the wires together. I did that over year ago and it is still fine. I sealed the connectors with clear silicone to keep out moisture. I have heard it is hard to solder the wires because the ones from the stater are steel, so unless you are experienced with solder, they don't stay connected well. You could even add 2 or 3 or 4 inches of wire with # 12- 14 gauge wire to get a better run.

 

I have not checked the voltage... I do not own a multimeter because I generally stay away from electrical stuff. I know it is a silly thing to hear, but I don't really understand the science of electricity all that great. I tried to learn it but... just couldnt grasp the particulars of it. So... I refer all electrical stuff to those who DO know. The pain of losing ones fingernails due to shock generally makes one a bit apprehensive.

 

Yes, many "hard wire" this connection, soldering wire to wire...
Bring your Bike down, I`m good at soldering, PLUS >
IF It were me > I`d run a charging system diagnosis to determine it is working correctly, then move forward from those results...
And to think?
I had my seat off yesterday, to go "two up" while the young`uns are here this week...
They Ride,
D

 

Sounds like you might want to consider crimp on connectors. The stator wiring to the Regulator are heavier gauge wires so they require a little higher heat. A lot of people have used crimp on connectors, you just need to size them for the gauge of wire. I believe Roadstercycle sells the mosfet with a crimp kit.

 

Sounds like you might want to consider crimp on connectors. The stator wiring to the Regulator are heavier gauge wires so they require a little higher heat. A lot of people have used crimp on connectors, you just need to size them for the gauge of wire. I believe Roadstercycle sells the mosfet with a crimp kit.

Actually the stator wire is steel and south of the connector is copper thus a industrial butt splice and shrink wrap is the method I used. No issues in 30,000 mi.

 

And to think?
I had my seat off yesterday, to go "two up" while the young`uns are here this week...
UNQUOTE


I forgot the rest of the sentence


I didn`t see anything amiss under there, all is well


Oops, my bad,
D

 

Don't be afraid to learn more about electricity. I worked on cars for years and enjoy electrical work. First thing is that 12 volt systems will not shock you . The outer layer of your skin will protect against voltages up to about 40-50 volts before you will feel anything. The spark plug voltages will give you a give a good jolt but the current is so low it usually does no damage. The only danger is if you short across the battery and a wire or tool, gets hot from that. Other wise don't be afraid to learn how to test your bike, or car, etc.

 

The hypothetical he's concerned about is screwing up his bike and having no idea whatsoever what he screwed up. That said, Brimauster, just ask for advice on the specific electrical glitch at hand like you did on this thread. DC is a bit safer than AC and bike DC circuits are relatively simple to grasp. Basically, it's only about a wire and the device that the wire serves. Many times the culprit is the connector that joins the two items.

 

Thanks for all the replies... I learn something every day. I plan on getting the mosfet r/r from roadstercycle and I think I read that he will add as many feet of wire to the unit as the buyer wants, at a very reasonable cost... that being said, is there any downside to installing the new r/r with long wires attached, so that I do not have to have *any* plugs, crimps, or splices in those three dastardly yellow wires? Straight run, nice and neat to the stator?

 

Oh, and as far as losing my fingernails, that was due to a US Navy shipboard stainless steel refrigerator with a bad ground... ship rolled as I was grabbing a double handful of milk boxes. The door swung closed as I was reaching in, hits me in the left elbow, my right elbow touched the frame... I watched my hands clench the milkboxes, popping them. I clenched so hard, my fingernails actually cut into my palms, drawing blood. The burning in my fingertips lasted for days and days. Then the nails turned black and started popping off. I hate electricity in all its evil, invisible wickedness.

 

The 3 Yellows (as you seem to be aware) run between the alternator and the reg./rect. so I would wager its just a bad connection and not a battery issue.

They got roasted a few years ago? How? are you sure that there was no damage to the alternator or the regulator that hass just finally deteriorated to a noticeable point?

 

He should test the output of the stater before he connects the splice connectors or solders, to verify that it is working on all 3 phases. Easy to do with a meter on AC volts. At idle about 20 volts AC, and revved up it may go up to 50 volts AC.

 

Update: I purchased a multimeter and with some help from an aircraft mechanic, learned how to use it... I think. Switch it to 20v setting and check voltage at the battery terminals with the engine off... 12.36v Start the engine, check again at idle... 12.56v. Rev it up a bit and hold it, (no tach so I don't know the rpms), check again...12.87v. What do I have here? I have no idea what I'm doing...

 

What is the voltage at the moment you press in the start button? Voltage should not drop below 9.5V.

 

Volts drop to 11.09.

 

I found and followed the tutorial on how to check the r/r on roadstercycle... looks like the r/r is still good I got zeros where they should be, and 433, 434, and 433 where they should be... battery is still holding a charge for now, and I can start and stop the engine with no issues... for now. Until I get a new battery, I will be carrying jumper cables, my new multimeter and my battery tender. Any suggestions on a battery? The current one is a Duralast-AGM, made in Jan '14, put in my bike in May '14.